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Old 10-29-2008, 12:40 PM   #21
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Rick,

Thanks for the invite. Is the rally an overnighter? Where are you staying? Would love to come see what the club is about! Going this Friday to Cheatham Annex to try to push all the trailer buttons i can figgure out. I'll hit your web site.
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Old 10-29-2008, 05:34 PM   #22
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1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver , British Columbia
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Nice looking trailer! You're well on your way to being afflicted with aluminitis. FYI, there is no known cure.
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:05 PM   #23
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1990 34' Excella
Parsonsfield, , Maine
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Disegrin,
I notice from your photos today that your 31' is a rear bath. That was the first year with center bath option. I had a 73 29'. It had two wardrobe closets between beds and bathroom. The original inverter in my 73 was under the bathtub, It was accessable from inside the closet on the curb side. There was a small panel about 10" square made out of the same material as the wall of the closet, 3/16" plywood. It was screwed on the surface like a "patch"with two screws. Once removed you could see the inverter. The original inverter had a little door you could open and inside were all the little glass buss fuses. There were also two larger glass fuses and fuse holders outside of the inverter , but screwed to the inside skin. These were each 50 AMP 12v DC main fuses, one for 12v+ and the other 12v-. The 110volt AC supply circuit breaker supplying the inverter, I believe was in the bathroom either in the cabinet next to the toilet or in a cabinet overhead, just can't remember for sure. I sold that trailer 18 years ago. CRE, can't remember everything. If the 110 isn't getting to the inverter because the breaker is tripped it won't hum. That was how it was when new, check it out. Charlie E.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:55 PM   #24
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CharlieE, you have described what my unit looks like. The curb side closet does not have all the wall in place on the tub side. The fuse box you described is in place and all the fuses are good. I was unaware of the +/- 50 amp fuses. I saw a 40 on the exterior wall behind the tub, right over the battery box. The AC breaker box is on the exterior wall of the opposite closet. Both breakers seem to be functioning. A 110 outlet was installed beside the breaker and the household water heater plugs into it when needed. Is the fuse box/panel the inverter? I still don't hear a hum, but all the fuses are good. Possibly the battery is bad.

I really appreciate everyone's advice here. If i put my forum question in the wrong location, just let me know a better place. I have been a member of other camper forums, but none have so many intelligent folks with so much of that been there and done that advice. Already, I'm making a new home.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:38 PM   #25
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converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselgrin View Post
The curb side closet does not have all the wall in place on the tub side. The fuse box you described is in place and all the fuses are good.
It does sound like the converter is bad. When you get ready to take it out, you will need to take the wires from the battery lose, and un-plug the the trailer. That is the safest way.

The VERY Heavy converter may be installed on a board that will slide out when you undo one or two screws.

Here is a link on how to install the new converter and panel


Dan
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:34 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselgrin View Post
Rick,

Thanks for the invite. Is the rally an overnighter? Where are you staying? Would love to come see what the club is about! Going this Friday to Cheatham Annex to try to push all the trailer buttons i can figgure out. I'll hit your web site.
Your photo clearlt shows that the axles are shot.

When you have good axles, you will see 2 to 3 inches of tire "above" the top of the wheels.

In your case, the top of the wheels are hidden.

Andy
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:09 PM   #27
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1990 34' Excella
Parsonsfield, , Maine
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Dieselgrin,
Sounds like you found the inverter. The door on the end of the inverter opened to give access to the 12volt branch circuit fuses. I wonder if the PO who installed the electric water heater may have cut the 110volt supply line to the inverter and used it to power the outlet plug where he plugs and unplugs the water heater. I believe in the bottom half of the end of the inverter, under the 12volt fuses, you'll find the connections where the 110volt power feed to the inverter is connected to the inverter internal wiring. You can check presence of 110 there with a test lite or volt meter. I believe that our 73 had a shut off on the gas line to the wall oven . It may have been outside the trailer under the belly pan directly under the oven or under the lift up burner plate on the stove. Under the belly pan you should also see a gas shut off valve for the Suburnban Furnace ditectly below the furnace. Propane is heavier than air so the shut offs are outside in most cases. Charlie E.
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:06 PM   #28
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CharlieE,
Thanks. I'll check to see if 110 is coming in. There is a duplex outlet right above the fuse panel. Seems odd to be in that location, but is similar to the one on the road side closet for the HWH and breaker box. So the inverter and fuses are all one piece? I was looking for 2 boxes.

I checked for cut offs to the range and oven under and outside the trailer and did not find any. There is a cut off under the range lift. I still did not see another one. What about the oven dial? Do you have to depress the oven dial to light the pilot? I see it has a "pilot off" position. No pilot on. the booklet say to turn oven to 350 and that allows gas to get to pilot. Nothing more written.
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:10 PM   #29
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Andy,

Thanks for the observation on the axles. The PO put new 10 ply tires on the trailer just before I bought it. I don't know the original tire size. Could larger tires go further into the wheel well? I towed it 2 hours last week with no apparent problems. I also downloaded a paper on checking the axles which I haven't done yet. How difficult is it to replace the axles? Is it something I can do (bolt on)? Any idea on cost?
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:26 PM   #30
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1973 31' Excella 500
Morristown , Tennessee
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Replacing the axles is a piece of cake. I used an iar impact wrench with a socket on a breaker arm to stabilize the bolt. This could easily be done with hand tools only. Jack up the frame to get clearance for tire removal. I loosen the tire bolts before they leave the ground to make it easier. Don't jack up the axles but use the frame where the axles are attached. Appropriate jack stands to hold the weight should be place where they will not interfere with replacement axles. Once the trailer is off the ground, I used the jack to support the axle and removed the shocks and undo the brake wires. Then, simply remove the bolts holding on the axles - two on each side and replace the shocks . I got mine from Andy at Inland RV. Call to get the proper weight and angle. I had them shipped to a local warehouse to save direct shipping costs.

This is the single best thing that I have done to the trailer to date. The axles are complete and fit perfectly without and drilling of new holes. Just a few tips. 1. Get the trailer high enough to clear the tires off and on so you don't have to deflate and reinflate. 2. Before tightening the axle bolts completely, be sure that it is jacked up to the frame and not hanging on the bolts themselves.

I did this by myself in the driveway with and impact wrench and hand tools, a floor jack in about two hours. Load the old axles on a truck and take them to a metal recycler with any other scrap you have around. I got $123 for the axles and my old refrigerator. Any little bit helps.

Hope that helps. Call Andy for more tips and easy ordering. You won't regret it
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