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10-26-2014, 12:54 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Waldorf
, Maryland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 29
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Adding plywood on top of floor?
I'm currently in the demo process of my 75 sovereign and have torn out the (cheap) hardwood floor and (gross) carpet that was lying under the hardwood and to no surprise I found rot in two places. I've already ordered some por15 epoxy to put over the rot but my dad seems to think I should also lay another layer of plywood over the floor from front to back of my airstream. Has anyone else had any experience laying an extra layer of plywood down before laying new hardwood? Any tips at all would be greatly appreciated I'm such a newbie over here! 😄
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10-26-2014, 01:20 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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I would remove the rotted areas and make patches if the remainder of the floor is solid.
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10-26-2014, 01:34 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1962 24' Tradewind
Buffalo
, Wyoming
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 686
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My original floor was solid, but I added 1/4" plywood on top of that in order to give a clean surface for Marmoleum adhesive to adhere to. When I went to put the appliances and walls back in, everything was 1/4" off. It really complicated the process and I regretted adding the extra plywood.
In the long run, I suspect you'll be happier if you do it right and replace the rotted sections. Adding another layer will cause lots of headaches.
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10-26-2014, 02:47 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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Gypsy the issue is not the rot you see, but the connection under the wall. If you remove the inner skin you will be looking at a C or F shaped channel. That two inch section of plywood is what holds your frame and body together. THAT will surely need to be replaced. I will guess that the rear section in the bathroom is also rotted badly as it is in most 70's trailers - mine included. Replace it, don't mess around with epoxy.
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__________________
Lucky Dave, Denver NC
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10-26-2014, 02:48 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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P.S. That. Carpet under the hardwood? That's what you call and encapsulated sponge.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
Lucky Dave, Denver NC
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10-26-2014, 03:07 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Waldorf
, Maryland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 29
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So the inner skin should come off most definitely in order to properly repair this rot?
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10-26-2014, 04:25 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 353
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In order to access the hold down bolts and screws that go through the c/f channel and your old/new plywood yes the lower interior skins need to come off.
Once you see behind those walls.... Then you might be down the rabbit hole
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
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10-26-2014, 04:42 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Waldorf
, Maryland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 29
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Thanks for all of the advice I really appreciate it I'd certainly like to do it right the first time so I won't have to go back and redo it in a few years ☺️
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10-26-2014, 08:11 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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Your absolutely 100% correct. Do it the right way now. And forget about it for the next 50 years.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
Lucky Dave, Denver NC
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10-26-2014, 08:44 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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There are many threads about floor replacement and patching. Use the SEARCH function here and review one or two. It's always better to learn from others mistakes than to replicate them. One of the odd things I noted was that Airstreams aren't necessarily symetrical. One person made a template of one side of the floor, flipped it and cut the whole section to repace across the rear... then found that the two curves were NOT identical. Luckily he'd cut the fatter curve, so trimming the other side worked. Had he gotten the skinny side, he'd have been looking for a whole new piece of plywood.
Also how thick IS the subfloor's plywood? Some are 3/4 inch, others 5/8 of an inch. Buy 3/4 inch plywood, and then find out it won't fit in the C channel - ARG! Some people deliberately put in the thicker floor for strength, then have to use a router or sander to reduce the edges to fit into the C-Channel... AND deal with any issues of re-fitting bathtubs, walls, fixtures of all sort.
Before you touch a tool, READ! (and as you progress with the work, tell us about your trip down the rabbit hole!)
Paula
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Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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10-27-2014, 02:54 PM
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#11
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Full Time Adventurer
2007 27' International CCD FB
Nomadic
, USA
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,748
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I know everyone is talking about replacing it, which is probably best, but you can add plywood underlayment for Marmoleum like Thalweg mentioned doing. I've done this in a mobile home after replacing subfloor. But this is really to create a smooth adhesive surface. Not fix rotten floors.
It's this stuff: Underlayment (Common: 7/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.196 in. x 48 in. x 96 in.)-431178 at The Home Depot
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