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Old 11-17-2010, 09:09 PM   #15
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Daniel IIRC I braced the shell side to side in seven places. My braces were rear edge of front end cap, in front of door, behind door, middle of wheel wells, rear of wheel wells, the last pair of ribs and front edge of rear end cap. You will have to brace at each end cap because the shell actually hangs over the C Channel by about 2 inches. I had to shim under the end cap C Channel with a 2x4 so that the 4x4 did not rest on the skins.
You will have to remove the lower inner panels to get at the bolts that hold the shell through the floor to the frame outriggers on the side and that hold the shell through the floor into the main frame rails and the front and rear holddown plates in the end caps.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:12 PM   #16
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I'm not sure about the tarp idea. Sounds like a huge sail. A party and special event tent supplier told me they engineer their tents for uploads which is much greater than download forces on a building.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:22 PM   #17
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Sounds like a good idea. There are a couple of threads documenting large shell-off renovations going on now. I'll post links to them if I can find them again.

Best of luck,

Rich the Viking

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ten-64883.html
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Daniel IIRC I braced the shell side to side in seven places. My braces were rear edge of front end cap, in front of door, behind door, middle of wheel wells, rear of wheel wells, the last pair of ribs and front edge of rear end cap. You will have to brace at each end cap because the shell actually hangs over the C Channel by about 2 inches. I had to shim under the end cap C Channel with a 2x4 so that the 4x4 did not rest on the skins.
You will have to remove the lower inner panels to get at the bolts that hold the shell through the floor to the frame outriggers on the side and that hold the shell through the floor into the main frame rails and the front and rear holddown plates in the end caps.

Awesome.. thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:05 PM   #19
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I'm not sure about the tarp idea. Sounds like a huge sail. A party and special event tent supplier told me they engineer their tents for uploads which is much greater than download forces on a building.
I definately need to give this more thought.. Thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:06 PM   #20
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Sounds like a good idea. There are a couple of threads documenting large shell-off renovations going on now. I'll post links to them if I can find them again.

Best of luck,

Rich the Viking

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ten-64883.html

Thanks Rich. I have a lot of reading to do..
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:28 PM   #21
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These are the before pics of the outside of "the beast". I took them with my Macbook camera. I'm bracing the inside today. Ima post "before" pics later of the inside showing my frame issue.
Awesome..
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:39 PM   #22
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Daniel I thought at first you had some sort of strange A/S but then I realized all the pics are negative reversed. I have never seen an A/S with the door on the roadside.
Did you already strip off the clearcoat from the shell? Did you strip off the blue stripe? The beast looks naked without any color on it!
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:46 PM   #23
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These are the inside
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:49 PM   #24
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Daniel I thought at first you had some sort of strange A/S but then I realized all the pics are negative reversed. I have never seen an A/S with the door on the roadside.
Did you already strip off the clearcoat from the shell? Did you strip off the blue stripe? The beast looks naked without any color on it!
That whole negative reverse thing was weirding me out too..
The only thing that I have done to it so far it strip the lower inside panels and put up two horizontal braces.

The bottom right picture showing the bent plywood flooring is what makes me most nervous right now. I can see that there is a lot of upward pressure on the shell there. Not really sure what to do about it except to start at the front (after bracing) and slowly make my way back along the sides, releasing the shell from the floor until I get back there and get that area loosed up without causing some sort of slingshot effect... this is a rush...

The pictures on the third row up from the bottom are of where the frame bent. Also the picture on the top row right.. all of the same area. The pictures are backwards.. this area is between the door and the wheels just aft of the battery box.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:35 PM   #25
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Daniel I would get some sort of support between the shell bracing and the ground as soon as possible. With all that floor removed there is not much holding up the shell and if you release the holdown bolts either the frame will comeup and impact the shell or it will drop down and the shell will fall to the ground. The shell may also come crashing down over the frame and well it'll be messy.
when I released my rear holddown bolts I didn't have any support between the frame and the ground. As I released the last bolt the frame dropped about 3 inches and scared the s**t out of me.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:12 PM   #26
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Ok. I did that. The shell is straightening out.

Because the frame buckled on the curb forward of the wheels, the curbside rear was "dragging". I lowered the tongue of the trailer as low as I could, then put some blocks
under the curbside rear bumper, then raised the tongue as high as I could get it.

Then, as you advised, I jacked up each of the braces on the curb side where there was no floor, and put blocks and wood from the ground for the braces to rest on.

Major improvement in "the situation".

It is clear that because of the warped frame I'm not going to be able to get the shell straight until it is off the frame.

Which leads me to my next question..

I'm a little confused about how to release the shell from the trailer.
It has the U/C channel thing that the floor slides into and is riveted to the shell.
It looks like the only way to get the shell off is to drill the rivets out that attach the shell to the U/C thing, leaving the U/C attached to the floor. Is this correct?

Oh, and for color, I'm going to hang Christmas lights on it. :-)
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:07 PM   #27
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Daniel I'm so relieved. Those pics looked like the shell was about to collapse.
Your'e right on the money about the channel along the sides of the trailer. It's only about 300 rivets to drill out and the shell will be free from the channel. It does stay attached to the floor. The channel for the end caps sits on top of the floor and stays attached to the shell during liftoff. The hard part will be reattaching the channel to the new floor before the shell goes back on and lineing it up properly. I was able to use my old floor as a template and took measurements from it to find points on the new floor to attach the channel. The wheel wells aslo stay on the floor during liftoff. It is important to make sure they go back on in the right spot both front to back and side to side.
I don't want to freak you out but mark, measure,test,measure, dry fit, measure and measure again. If you get it wrong it's a lot of work to pull the shell up again and fix it.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:14 PM   #28
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Chris, I have the shell loose except in one place.. the very front.
There is a thin metal plate that is riveted to the inside of the shell.. this is the plate that the connector for the tow vehicle plugs in. Is this metal plate welded to the frame? Do I need to remove the rivets that are holding this metal plate to the shell?
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