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Gene · 04-17-2012, 09:22 AM

You may need to tie yourselves to the bed before you ride it down or you may roll into the wall. This also may be an opportunity for other things best discussed on the "Sex in an Airstream" thread.

Gene

danlehosky · 04-17-2012, 06:33 PM

You can push down hard on the bed. Body weight should do it. However don't try this approach on the mirror in the bathroom. It has a keeper on the left side hinge as my wife found out when she pushed hard and it blew out and fell on the floor. Amazingly it didn't break the glass and the dealer fixed it. He also fixed the screen on my emergency exit window and didn't engage the locks and we were on I-5 doing about 60 when I looked back and saw the window flapping in the wind. Luckily we found a pull over stop and locked it. When I told the service mgr about it he chuckled and said it happened all the time, which made me lose what little patience I had at that moment and I unloaded on him. The last time I called for service he was no longer there.

Dan

Gene · 04-17-2012, 06:56 PM

Dan, you are lucky it didn't shatter as ours did when we were bringing it home for the first time. One latch was loose. The latches can be adjusted to make them tight.

Gene

danlehosky · 04-17-2012, 08:27 PM

Gene, after that happened I went thru the whole trailer and adjusted/tightened all of the latches. Some of them were very loose. This design while on every trailer I think is poor. You can continue to force the handles to turn after the latch is tight if the set screw isn't really tight. You also have to be careful tightening the set screw as it looks like it would be easy to snap it off with a long Allen wrench.
Dan

ROBERT CROSS · 04-18-2012, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danlehosky

Gene, after that happened I went thru the whole trailer and adjusted/tightened all of the latches. Some of them were very loose. This design while on every trailer I think is poor. You can continue to force the handles to turn after the latch is tight if the set screw isn't really tight. You also have to be careful tightening the set screw as it looks like it would be easy to snap it off with a long Allen wrench.
Dan

PDI...NOT

Bob

Hibby · 04-22-2012, 10:11 AM

Does anyone know how to run the BluRay player audio through the sound system? I thought it would be as easy as selecting the source on the audio player, but doesn't appear to be the case....

mtntime · 04-22-2012, 11:31 PM

I have never got it to play other than through the TV which is weak at best. The audio/visual is not an integrated system at all just an afterthought of individual pieces. I have not had time to re-engineer it as other issues have priority at the moment. You cannot operate the DVD player with the cabinet door closed (need an IR repeater or a DVD player with a wireless remote) so you have to open and close the door to pause or anything else. If I don’t I always hit my head when left open. Both TVs seem to work at the same time the same way. We have to constantly unplug one or the other. Three remotes, four if you count the stereo. I have not found a way to keep the stereo demo mode from not coming back on each time the power is cut.

danlehosky · 04-22-2012, 11:55 PM

Collimare, ditto on the stereo. I just leave the faceplate open. You can run the TV thru the front and rear speakers. We have had problems sometimes with one remote working both TV's etc. No way around that I guess..
Dan

danlehosky · 04-23-2012, 12:00 AM

Hibby, I can get the sound system to work, but I never write the steps down whenI do it or stumble on it without knowing how it happened. My trailer is at the dealership having some other work done and whenI pick it up I will have service show me the procedure, write it down and post.
Dan

BrandonJenna · 04-23-2012, 08:45 AM

To get the stereo to play what is on the television you need to select CD (even though there isn't a cd player) and the push the mode button until cd connection #2 displays, it will look like a picture of a cd and the number 2 on it.
Then just turn up the volume and enjoy!

DMT · 04-23-2012, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrandonJenna

To get the stereo to play what is on the television you need to select CD (even though there isn't a cd player) and the push the mode button until cd connection #2 displays, it will look like a picture of a cd and the number 2 on it.
Then just turn up the volume and enjoy!

But only if Simon says.......

Imagine if these guys had to make something complicated, like a car, or maybe a donut.

herrick51 · 04-23-2012, 07:00 PM

We just picked up our flying Cloud 25FB, and struggled with the "entertainment system". I did discover in the bag of manuals an 8 x 11 card with the heading MY2012 which has a list of the components and model numbers on one side. Printed on the reverse side are instructions for each option for viewing/listening. Several issues: the TV has to be on in order to listen to a music CD through the Blu-Ray system, AND the TV sound has to be on and up a few notches to minimize (not entirely eliminate) a hum in the speakers when the Sony receiver is set to CD2 as instructed. This model of Samsung TV does not have th option for "turning off" the TV speakers by choosing a menu option of external speakers. As a result, it takes a bit of juggling between the TV volume and the Sony volume to get something approaching clear sound when playing either a CD or DVD (but I notice the speaker hum more on CD). There is a Sony-aux box wired behind the receiver, so I'm assuming we can get a separate CD player wired directly through that box in order to listen to CDs without powering both the Blu-Ray and TV (not a particularly great option when off shore power). We will also be considering replacement apeakers. . .

Hibby · 04-23-2012, 07:52 PM

Thank you all so much! I will look for the instruction card tomorrow in the camper manuals (thanks Herrick51) I'll also give the stereo connections a go and see if CD input number two will work on mine as well (thanks BrandonJenna).

I am using iTunes Match now on my iPad and don't anticipate needing the CD functionality, so I'll overlook that problem for now. But I agree; it seems as though some additional forethought could have been put into this system.

The insight that Thor could obtain from these forums would make Airstream such a phenomenal trailer. It's already a great product, but there's such a vast wealth of knowledge and experience here...

TerraYacht · 04-23-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hibby

I just went out and checked it because it's parked next to the house at the moment. I flipped on the propane switch for the water tank and no light came on even though the propane fired up. I also tried the electrical switch for the water heater and, alas, no light comes on.

Admittedly, I seem to have found only one flaw at the moment of the entire trailer. I'm pretty impressed...

I still think we should put together a group of private investors and by Airstream from Thor industries. We could make a better product and take over the world!

I was prechecking my TerraYacht before the NorCal rally: when I fired up the water heater on propane it didn't stay lit, probably from sitting for many months. However, the light did come on to tell me that the propane did not work properly. After a few more attempts the gas stayed fired and the light stayed off. My 2005 rig is just an incandescent pilot, not LED.

Hibby · 04-24-2012, 10:42 AM

Thanks, TerraYacht... Good to know that the one flaw is no longer a problem! Apparently, I've gotten a perfect Airstream! I'll take it out for the third time this weekend and look for flaws.

mtntime · 04-26-2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hibby

Apparently, I've gotten a perfect Airstream! I'll take it out for the third time this weekend and look for flaws.

My hats off to you! That’s why I don’t by lottery tickets, someone else has already taken all my good luck. What’s that old country tune, “if it weren’t for bad luck I’d have no luck at all”?

Anyone had a chance to have your 2012 in the heat? A couple weeks ago we were in Phoenix for our second trip and it was extremely nice weather with a few days in the high 80s. We finally needed to run the AC which tripped the 30 amp breaker a couple of times and then I plugged in to the 50 amp circuit and it stayed on but the trailer never got below 85 during the day. The air on high coming out was cool but not cold. Just wondering if anyone else has a bad AC? It is also extremely noisy! Since it appears to be another DOA aspect of the trailer I wonder if they will replace it. Perhaps I can pay the difference to have a better/quieter unit put in.

Gene · 04-26-2012, 10:35 AM

Do you have an infrared thermometer—that's an easy way to take the A/C's temp (and tires and bearings). I think the air coming out should be in the upper 40's, but I'm not entirely sure. Try it on your truck or car A/C too. That'll give you an idea of what it should be. Just use a regular thermometer if you don't have the infrared one.

Temps in the trailer also depend on shade or lack of it, whether the awning is out on the sunny side, and whether you have curtains and blinds closed on the sunny side. You can also put insulation on the fans, in the skylight and some windows. Reflectix is available at Lowe's, Home Depot and RV stores—just some bubble wrap with foil coating on each side, but works pretty well. Use Velcro to attach the Reflectix.

If you have problems with your local dealer over warranty issues (as we did), contact Airstream. We did that and it helped, but we eventually went to Jackson Center where warranty work is done well and they don't deny a lot of claims.

Gene

DMT · 04-26-2012, 11:09 AM

Collimare,

Since you have the 25' FC I assume the AC is a 15k Dometic Penguin? This unit is standard for new AS' and should have had no problem operating on 30 amps.

The same AC on my 2011 International failed on first use - same performance as you report except I never experienced breakers tripping. Dometic replaced the unit.

Don

fmr.capt.evi · 04-26-2012, 11:42 AM

25 FB's get a 13.5 unit, which is inadequate, especially without streetside awnings (lived in one for a couple of years), and I don't think they do "credit" deals with warranty work.

And, insofar as determining the efficiency of your present unit, I think the "standard" in the RV world is simply a 20 degree differential between the warm air entering the unit (at the filters), and the cool air being discharged from the unit, (a few inches away); outside air temperature, or the ambient temperature inside your rig isn't part of the equation...I know...pathetic, isn't it. (Maybe some of our airconditioning guys can weigh in on this, and correct me it I'm wrong).

Gene · 04-26-2012, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmrcaptevil

I think the "standard" in the RV world is simply a 20 degree differential between the warm air entering the unit (at the filters), and the cool air being discharged from the unit,

I've seen that "fact" posted several times lately, but is it really true?

Some time ago Bob Cross posted something he says helps. We've tried it and it does seem to speed cooling. When you plug into shore power, turn the A/C down to 60˚ instead of 70˚ or 75˚ or whatever. Maybe it fools the A/C to think it has to cool increase the compressor cycle. Maybe Bob and I are crazy or easily impressionable (do not answer that).

Gene