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Old 10-11-2014, 07:12 AM   #15
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Does anyone have an alternate part number or car application for the parking brake shoes? Would be nice if there's no Napa near by.
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:22 PM   #16
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10-594, cable, fits the brakes on my bus, 10-975. I now have a hook type wire cutter in the tool kit too.

Robert
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Old 10-12-2014, 05:57 AM   #17
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Thanks, Robert!

Sam (now carrying two RGSs in my MH)
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Old 10-12-2014, 09:45 AM   #18
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, OH
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shoes are standard, available at oreilly, auto zone, carquest, advance, napa.
after inspection of original revealed excellent condition of all related parts of brake shoes we decided to install brand new shoes anyway. little labor and only $25 provided 'brand new' driveshaft mechanism. note the adjust wheel is at the top with access of snap in/out cover. our goal was to slide brake bell over shoes without any force. we then pulled on cable to center shoes. removed bell and expanded reach till we could still slide bell on without force. took a few tries. we knew we could adjust shoes using wheel if needed. with bell installed the brake cable travel was tested. we had between 1 1/4 inch to slightly over 1 for full release to total application.

the brake cable from the 'backing plate' was reinstalled to the cable relay mechanism.
the cable from the cable relay that had come from the actuator was relocated to the left front of the engine [not near 'hot stuff']. dog cover removed for this chore.



we then removed the hyd pump under the hood. electric, hyd lines and entire pump.
the hyd lines were blown out catching a little fluid at the other end. the bolts holding the pump were a little difficult as the 'heads' rotated when loose. however, with patience we located the heads and held them to remove the nuts. heavy, nice to get the pump out!
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Old 10-12-2014, 03:52 PM   #19
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Drive line shoe replacement question

When you take the drive line off, and then the center bolt to get the drum off, does that mean that there is anything in the transmission you are taking apart? Or are you stopping before you affect seals, ATF, etc.
Thanks!

Robert
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:50 PM   #20
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no, nothing in the trans. you can find a photo of the drum for sale at various web sites. cost is up to 400 or 500. our drum was mint. by carefully pulling the brake drum off and not getting any dust/dirt on the one seal you can see in my photo. we considered very lightly lubing the seal but decided it was not that important. kept all contact areas clean when reinstalling drum. think we just removed it once or twice for checking shoe centering. no fluid present. I believe the seal is just to prevent dust from entering spline area.....with the drum installed [tight] ....good as new. [our opinion....]
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:15 AM   #21
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Thanks for the information, and thanks for your time sharing your experience!

Robert
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:42 PM   #22
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as written we reused [never detached] from the hyd actuator. we simply rerouted it to the area of the front left tire well. we extended the threads on threaded shaft originally used for adjustment from the actuator. we treaded as far as possible.
used "CS Hex Die, size: 1/2", thread: 20, part # 3116842, UNF...from Fastenal Company, I think it was less than $10.
The purpose of completely threading the shaft was to give us as much adjustment as possible into the collar [sorry, don't know the tech word] that had been used from the old actuator.

we used a foot operated brake [parking?, emergency? or whatever] from a Ford van
installed the mechanism directly into the metal wall directly left of the driver's left foot.

very secure...lead the cable along the driver door sill and into the wheel well area.

Now comes the hardest part. Building a frame to hold the cable from the cable relay and to hold the new foot brake. Securing both shields and providing adjustment of the cable relay [as mentioned before...a little over 1".

Also, spring tension on the new foot brake cable must be installed to keep sufficient tension to allow release of applied brake. Most folks remember the routine..push to apply the brake..push again to release. [this is where the spring tension is needed...to allow release to happen.]

Building this frame was the challenge. Holding the outside [?better word]of the cable secure to allow the cable to do its function. And generally having one cable move the other cable and still have ability to adjust is the goal.

I am sure there are folks out there that could do a real pro job.....

We did it...it works for us. Foot down.........brake on....Foot down...release...brake off

We tested the release of the brake at the trans brake drum...very scientifically....spun it around by hand...listened...no drag...easy spin..........Okay......then we applied the brake...measuring the travel of the brake drum cable end. A little over an inch.
another very elaborate test...tried to rotate the bell...no way...tight.

Put the driveshaft back on...........then greased the mo ho! easy job up like that.
Road test........our job works. After reading, reading, and reading about all the misery folks have.....our misery is in 2 five gallon pails [heavy] to remind us, the hyd pump, the hyd actuator, a couple of electric harnesses, and some pretty heavy duty nuts and bolts.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined the only hard part was the building of the frame. Bench tested before installed.


As written, a signal is needed, when time permits.
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:01 PM   #23
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van brake cable

try a photo of van cable
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #24
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How to post this thread as a sticky?

Excellent thread.

Don't know how to get the attention of the moderator but i think this thread should be a "Sticky"
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