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Old 10-11-2014, 08:17 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bella123 View Post
The cables looked OK. Adjusted the shoes till locked up and then backed off five clicks. The last step was adjust the cable at the actuator so the travel was 1.25".
We now don't roll down the hill....

Finally, if there is a issue of hydraulic pressure failure on the road, I would as a last resort, cut the cable to be able to drive to a safer repair location...

From you experienced LY owners, or P30, any thoughts?
If your cable connection adjustment can free your brake contact pressure there is no need to cut the cable. I backed off the cable adjustment before moving the rv to the repair pad. It was only 50 ft of backing but readjusting much easier than cutting and replacing. Except when you back off the adjustment and it disconnects, pia to reconnect but was less work than replacing cable. As always having the parts with you on the road will make it possible to fix by any mechanic or shop that will use your parts. My local RV dealer has a sign that reads "We only install our parts not yours"
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:34 AM   #16
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2005 30' Land Yacht Gas 30
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Cable adjust location specific information

Thanks for the input.

Did you adjust the cable at the actuator, and there are enough threads to unload the giant spring? Did you have hydraulic pressure on to give you slack, engine on and in neutral? I tried it, and it seemed really heavily loaded with out hydraulic pressure. That would be great to know for sure. If so, how did you keep the shaft from turning, I don't see any flats or any retention device, if you scar the surface then seal issues even if the actuator was not the problem to begin with.

Good point about repair shops parts policy, but we have never had a shop available when we needed one, so I really want to be able to save myself for the items that are possible for me to do if necessary. We kitesurf, and if you are all alone down a dirt road a broken bus and no phone coverage is a really lonely feeling......

Thanks again!
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Old 10-13-2014, 01:22 PM   #17
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I was able to back the tension adjustment nut off the the actuator bolt, lots of load and not easy, used crowbar and vice grips. When actuator was operating it was easy to put the actuator nut(adjuster) back to it's original position. Yes and no on enough threads, I had seen the leak was in the actuator not the RGS so I knew the actuator was going to be removed for service. I didn't test to see if brake was completely released while it was still connected on the threads but I did have enough to backup the 50 ft. Problem is you can't tell how much thread is left holding it on. and the spring has a lot of pull to the end of the treads. I would guess actuator has two inches of movement under pressure while the adjustment nut has about an inch. I didn't know the actuator hydraulic cylinder could be removed without bothering the spring load until I was ready to take off the cylinder.
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:55 PM   #18
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OK, good to know, thanks!

Robert
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Old 10-14-2014, 03:58 PM   #19
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Hearing all of these horror stories I'm feeling much better at having a pre-94 P30 with the power steering driven Auto Park with no Rotten Green Switch.
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