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Old 03-22-2016, 10:49 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 152
How to remove bathroom vanity in 96LY 30?

I'm prepping for arrival of a new, uncracked, Aria head. See other post...

Looking at getting rid of the stinky carpet as well in the bathroom, and replacing with sheet vinyl. The flooring project would go a lot easier if I could pull the vanity, glue down the new vinyl, and re-install; but I cant see how it is attached??? The only thing I can figure is that they attached it from below? Bummer if that is the case. I ain't pulling tankage to get at the darn screws...

I could just spend half a day and make a pattern out of something non-stretch and non wrinkle... but it would prolly still need a quarter round for trim around the base of the vanity.


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Old 03-25-2016, 08:49 AM   #2
3 Rivet Member
1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 152
Did some more inspection, and found a hint: there is one screw visible going into the vanity from the drawer space under the refrigerator. When I remove it, I can slightly dislodge the bottom of the vanity. Very slightly. The top of the vanity is still firmly secured to the wall though.

It almost looks like the refrig may need to be pulled to get to the non-accessible screws?

Looking at the carpet under the toilet/vanity, it appears it would be ...problematic to just cut the carpet flush with vanity base. Once the new vinyl is layed down, the vanity would be sitting about 1/2" higher (still on top of the carpet), and the edge of the carpet would be visible. I would need at least a 3/4" round trim, or maybe a 3/4" stainless steel angle "L" to cover the gap.

Sure would like to know if the refrigerator hides the screws, or if there is another mounting trick that I have not figured out...

Dang; why does everything get so complicated?

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Old 03-26-2016, 11:19 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
1996 30' Land Yacht
Benson , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 152
Got it.

Took awhile, but after scratching my head for too long, I just kind of starting using my shoulder to ...persuade... the vanity to f'ing move. And it did. But more importantly was where it it did NOT move. Which was against the reefer wall.

A few more UMPHS! and I was able to get a hacksaw blade between the finished wall and the wood cabinetry.

3 on the top:

And 3 on the right side:

The top screw in the side mount I just could not get the cabinet to deflect enough in order to insert the blade: and I did not want to bugger the wall finish. After due consideration... I just gave it a mighty tug and pulled the threads out of the wood, leaving the screw:

When I get the flooring done, I'll drill several holes from the toilet room side of the wall, thru cabinetry trim, and into the reefer wall; should be at least as strong as the AS method; and LOTS easier for the next guy...

The toilet room, naked:

Spent about 2 hours getting the fricken closet flange off - seems the PO did not have a proper rubber gasket - so it looks like he used the boat builders friend, 3M 5200. Then it took another r2 hours to get the 5200 "gasket" out of the holding tank flange.

Ended up buggering the closet flange getting it off, and it seems neither my local RV store, nor Tucson CW carries them. Say what???

I guess no one ever replaces toilets or flooring in an RV around here...

Next problem is to figure out some way to wrap the sheet vinyl over the 90 degree platform top. I'm thinking I will need some kind of stair nosing: I can's see the sheet vinyl making that turn and staying in one piece for long.
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