Occasional no start!

[pdallas]

Every once in a while after it has been running the 84 310 454 will not start. I wait a few minutes and then, it will start. It has a new starter and new solenoid. I was told to have a mechanic enlarge the coil inside the starter!

Anyone had a similar experience?

Thanks,

PD

[richinny]

this thread is worth reading:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...oid-59038.html

[ScrapIrony-2]

Because the starter is located close to the exhaust manifold, some reports of no-start after running have surfaced...if you let it cool off awhile, it will start again...we have had this problem, so when I shut off the engine after a drive, it's because I don't plan on going anywhere for awhile...otherwise(on the road from A to B), I will leave it running.
Seems to me there is reference in a thread to installing a heat shield...mike

[345bill]

[QUOTE=pdallas;880950]Every once in a while after it has been running the 84 310 454 will not start. I wait a few minutes and then, it will start. It has a new starter and new solenoid.

pd- Let's narrow this down. When it's not starting does it turn over at normal RPM'S or not at all? Just clicks? Turns over slow?

[ArtStream]

Hello PD,

Scrapy is spot-on!
I had the same issue with my old 454 P30 chassis MOHO.

I installed a shield and a insulating blanket over the starter and I never had the problem again.

Hi Scrappy!

Swishes,

[68 TWind]

The heat from the manifold and block "heat sinks" the starter and that causes an increase in internal resistance and a no start. ArtStream's fix is has been used with success for years in Burb's and trucks with the big block. I have never read why the big block was more prone to the problem but is was.

[pdallas]

Thanks Guys!
345bill. The motor will do nothing! Plenty of juice to dash lights, but when switch is turned; nothing. Definitely acts like the heat sink thing! It already has a shield. I can buy some thermal wrap and wrap the overall unit easy enough!

Thanks for the help!
PD

[richinny]

do the lights dim when you turn the key?

[pdallas]

The dash lights stay bright. I have not had anyone eyeball the headlights.

PD

[ScrapIrony-2]

PD,
The starter won't do anything, if it's the heat thing...turn the key, and you get...well...
n o t h i n g...
Mr Artstream...long time, no see...good to hear from you, my friend...Q in Nov...
mike

[richinny]

ok, it sounds like the started solenoid is not being activated. the first things i'd try are:
1) chock the wheels, wiggle the shifter while in neutral and see if the starter comes to life.

2) test the ignition switch and see if it is sending 12v to the starter.

[345bill]

pd-As everyone has already said about excessive heat in area of starter be sure to check condition of all starter wires at starter. That's also where the heat sink is, on my 345.

Everything Ricky said in post # 11 is what I'd check also. Although a faulty neutral switch shouldn't be heat related it could very well be a vibration problem causing intermittent no crank.

You mentioned in post # 1 that it has a new starter and solenoid. Did you have the same problem before these were installed?

Let us know.

[345bill]

pd- I just remembered one problem I had on my 345 that's similar. Where the neg battery cable, from start battery, connects to the frame had a loose/crummy connection that caused cranking & battery charge problems, intermittenly. Lights, radio and stuff would work fine. After I cleaned the cable end, new bolt & nut, the problem was cured. Easy enough to check.

[pdallas]

Thanks Bill: That would be a good thing to do anytime!

[pdallas]

We live and learn! After cleaning up wire terminals, defecting out the rebuilt starter, insulating starter unit, I made a discovery! On this 84 310, there is an additional solenoid mounted to a bracket just in front of the air cleaner. After messing around with a tester probe, I discovered the lead to the starter was pretty rusted and actually was keeping the test light from shining brightly. After scratching the rust slightly, I got a brighter light and WALA the fool engine started. Replaced the solenoid with a matching napa part and have now been start happy for 20 tests. It may be my imagination, but I think I am getting a higher amp reading as well??

Hope this helps somebody else down the road.

PD

[richinny]

you'll be able to deliver more amps to the starter. it sounds a lot like the thread i listed in post number two ;-) i learn a lot on this forum :-)

on a side note... i had two bad solenoids from napa (with the posts on the side) i swithed to the type with the front type terminals ith good results. the other type would frequetly not release without tapping on the solenoid.