1982 28' Isuzu Turbo Diesel

[mcplaidpiper]

I have my 1982 AS diesel Isuzu in the shop working to make it roadworthy. The mechanic found a worn out harmonic balancer and is replacing it. Found Dale Enterprises in Salem Oregon will rebuild one in 2 days, and it was a lot easier than finding a new one; has a lifetime warranty and should be under $120 delivered back to the shop.

My question: since they have removed everything from the front end to get to the balancer, are there any items which would be wise to replace while we are here (or subscribe to theory 'unless its broke, leave it alone?). For example, would it be wise to replace the water pump (which is original); or the alternator (which is original), or some other hard to otherwise reach part?

The mechanic is also having some difficulty finding replacement radiator hoses and by-pass hoses (e.g. the water pump)...anyone have a suggestion for a source?

Any words of wisdom from those who have been down this path before would be appreciated. I really don't want to replace something if experience has shown that at 37,000 miles--but sitting in a field for several years--and there may still be several dependable miles or years left; but I don't relish being on the side of the road unnecessarily, either...

Thanks!

[bkahler]

If it was me I would replace any rubber in that area such as hoses (power steering and water), belts etc. I would also replace the water pump. On the 454 engined motorhomes you can get to the alternator fairly easily so unless thats different on the Isuzu there should be no reason to replace it.

You might even consider the power steering pump. I say that mainly because on the 454 models its a bear to get to some of the hoses. The last thing I want to do is to have to try and replace one or more of those components on the side of the road.

Just my $0.02

Brad

[Mike Leary]

Ditto on the water pump; here's your chance. The alternator is easily serviced under the roadside wheel well, don't worry about it with such low miles. The belts and hoses should not be a big deal: Napa should be able to cross-ref to the Gates numbers. Let me know if you've got problems & I'll dig out my paperwork. Replace the top fuel filter NOW, you won't have a easier time to do it. If you replace it now and change the lower with every oil change, you'll prolly never have to get at it for 100k. Have them check the power steering hoses.

[mcplaidpiper]

Thanks for the responses and your recommendations!

I didn't even think about the power steering pump/hoses. Looking at the alternator it really appeared as if it was pretty well buried, but on second thought I will stop its replacement since it's fairly accessible and just have the PS hoses--and maybe even the pump--replaced (the alternator IS high dollar). The machanic has already replaced the second fuel filter--the one by the water pump--and advised me about changing the first/primary filter, just as you recommended. The mechanic pointed out a grease fitting on the water pump shaft...how in the world could anyone know about that, or even get to that fitting to grease it???? wow...

The mechanic and I have built a fairly good professional relationship and he really didn't support changing the alternator...just didn't think it really needed (I was more worried about the 27 YO bearings going out in the middle of nowhere). But, on second thought, I think I will heed your advise/experience and just make sure all the rubber is replaced, power steering pump, etc; and replace the thermostat as well. The radiator hoses appeared original and the outer layer was even peeling off...just waiting to blow in the middle of nowhere--with my luck!!

I am replacing the vaccuum powered steps with electric Carlson Stromberg and was just wondering what else may be vaccuum powered on my rig (thinking of the vaccuum pump on the back of the alternator & if it's still needed...and any vaccuum lines which may be easier to replace at this point). I am having the chassis AC replaced while I'm doing this. $$$$$, it's only money and the economy is...oh well, impeccable timing, again. The purchase price was only a down payment, right?

Any guess how many miles I might expect to get out of the transmission before a rebuild/replacement (appears to be the original Chevy Turbo 400)? I'm hoping to get 100K + out of the engine before any major internal issues...I guess the 'weakest' part of the engine may be the turbo--from what I've read on the forum.

Again, thanks for your guidance!! I really can't wait to get my rig on the road!!

[Mike Leary]

How far torn down is it; is the head off? The turbo is the weak link, not Izuzu, mine went around 150K, if
the head is off, it's easy to do the turbo.

[mcplaidpiper]

Originally Posted by Mike Leary

How far torn down is it; is the head off? The turbo is the weak link, not Izuzu, mine went around 150K, if
the head is off, it's easy to do the turbo.

The mechanic believes everything internal is good to go, so have not done anything there. Just got word the radiator will need to be re-cored...which was not unexpected...but not welcome news.

He should start putting everything back together tomorrow.

[Mike Leary]

You should be fine; the transmission and rear end lasted us well into the 125k+ mark. Good luck, keep in touch.

[mcplaidpiper]

Originally Posted by Mike Leary

How many miles on the coach?

odometer shows 37,500...which I have no reason to doubt...

[Mike Leary]

Originally Posted by mcplaidpiper

odometer shows 37,500...which I have no reason to doubt...

With that industrial marine engine, it's not even broken in. Keep your rpms to 3200.

[Chaplain Kent]

There are two inexpensive fixes you can make and they don't have to be now. One is the voltage regulator and the other one is the battery isolator. Both are undersized for this unit and what you will be using it for now as you add more electronics. I speak from experience.