View Poll Results: Guess the tongue weight
under 250 lbs 3 9.68%
250 to 275 lbs 1 3.23%
275 to 300 lbs 5 16.13%
300 to 325 lbs 9 29.03%
325 to 350lbs 2 6.45%
Over 350 lbs 11 35.48%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-23-2010, 08:25 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Aage post #199 has photo. We are talking about the pan or shroud that the vista view window shade slides up and down in. Most of it is unseen because it is behind the inner panels(walls). The photo shows the front side and the white painted part is all you see from inside the trailer.
OK, thanks for making that more clear, Chris. If I get it, the piece you show in #199 is fixed, and not the piece (shade) that actually does the sliding up ans down, correct?

Mine must have lost the rivets, since it is fussy to open or close.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:18 PM   #212
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Aage right on the money. That is the pan not the shade itself. Check the edges of your shades. They are supposed to have a plastic edgeing on the vertical edges as well as a longer piece of plastic edge on the lower horizontal edge. Without the edgeing the shade tends to bind up because the shade is metal and has sharp square corners. Add that to the fact that the metal strips along the vertical edge of the pan coming loose and the shade will not track straight and not travel square in the pan and it will bind up.
Huge PITA to repair unless you drop away inner panels for access.
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Old 11-23-2010, 10:10 PM   #213
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omg not looking forward to my bellypan.........
all ive done thus far is boondock it
but shes hanging a lil low
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:47 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Aage right on the money. That is the pan not the shade itself. Check the edges of your shades. They are supposed to have a plastic edgeing on the vertical edges as well as a longer piece of plastic edge on the lower horizontal edge. Without the edgeing the shade tends to bind up because the shade is metal and has sharp square corners. Add that to the fact that the metal strips along the vertical edge of the pan coming loose and the shade will not track straight and not travel square in the pan and it will bind up.
Huge PITA to repair unless you drop away inner panels for access.
:: sigh :: One more thing to take apart and service. Well, the inner plastic "glass" on them all needs removed so that they can be properly cleaned, so I suppose I will add that to the chores when I get around to doing that.

Will the inner panels come off without removing anything else in the cabin ceiling?
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:18 AM   #215
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Aage the service manual says that the panels can be removed at one end and let them hang. Usually the end of the panel closest to the end cap. You will have to remove the drapes and the tracks for the drapes. This will give you room to slide out the shade pan. 6 rivets on the outside of the shell need to be drilled out to remove the pan. It will be very hard to line the pan back in place and you will have to use olympic rivets to reattach them as there will be no access for solid rivets.
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:43 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Any idea what type of plastic this is or any recommendations on what to use to repair the pan and the rest of the cracks? I was htinking about a two part epoxy designed for plastic repair.
Hey WC, Yup - that's what I would use. With a bit of fiberglass to strengthen the repair, like what I did with the black plastic wheel wells. I used a marine medium speed cure epoxy - the same stuff I used to repair our kevlar canoe.

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Old 11-27-2010, 08:42 PM   #217
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Vista View Shade Pans

I got several of the vista view shade pans repaired and ready to buck back on.
Each one was removed by drilling out the solid rivets holding them to the shell. There are three rivets above and three rivets below the vista view. Then the aluminium strips were removed. The horizontal ones that the solid rivets went through were attached to the pans with 2 sided tape. The tape was dried out and they practically fell off. There are two vertical strips on either side of the pans which keep the shades in alignment and they were pop riveted to the pans.
Each and every part was throughly cleaned and the pans and shades were painted before the reassembly process began.
Most every rivet hole in the pans had cracked and needed repair. I used a 2 part epoxy to fix the cracks. Then the pans were sanded smooth before painting. One pan had actually broken in half. While trying to reassemble that pan it broke again, the rivet crushed the repair so that one is being fixed with a diffferent automotive glue and I will use different holes to reattach the vertical strips at the break.
The horizontal strips were reattached with a good quality 3M brand 2 sided tape used to attach car moldings. The vertical strips were pop riveted back on using more rivets than original.
Once the pans are bucked back on I plan to add more rivets there as well.
A few of the shades were missing the little trims on the ends and one was missing the trim from the bottom. I was able to scavange parts from the trim that was around the interior panels openings for the shades. Inland RV sold me new trim for there.
I insulated the pans with two layers of Produx and the rest of the Produx for the shell will attach to the pans when I complete the insulation.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:27 PM   #218
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OK, I think I'm beginning to understand them better now. So, the vertical aluminum strips are to hold the sliding shades, to give them a track to move in, if I get it.

The horizontal ones are just to fastern the pan to the shell. Why is the tape necessary though, if the aluminum strips are buck riveted on to the shell?

If I attempt this, it will be my first buck riveting. Not looking forward to that, I gotta admit...

I don't suppose there is a supplier for new pans, of course. From your work, it sounds like the plastic of the pans has hit the end of its useful life, or even gone by the end by a couple of decades.

Thanks for explaining that so clearly, Chris.

It strikes me that this would be a good job to do, as the PO used silicon on the outside to seal the top of the VVs from the rain. Of course, the silicon hasn't aged well, plus the gap between the two windows is beginning to look like the Amazon forest, PLUS opening and closing the shades takes a lot of patience.

I know, why don't you bring your bucking gun down here and go fishing with me for a couple of weekends this summer...?
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:00 PM   #219
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Aage right the vertical strips make a track for the shades.
The vertical ones are taped to the pans to keep them in place during install and I think they help hold the pans to the strips better.
Bucking is actually quite easy. I was reluctant as well. I still have to resist the tendancy to buck the heck out of them. It takes just a quick burst to seat the rivets.
I wouldn`t imagine the pans are still available.
I have posted in another thread about removing the vista views themselves and rebuilding them, keeping the dual pane set up. It wasn`t that bad to rebuild and I managed to find some preshimmed butyl tape for between the panes. The hard part was getting the sandwich of panes back in while the shade pans are still attached. had I known I was going to go this far i would have waited until now to repair the VV`s.
Check your shades for the little plastic strips along the vertical edges. Without them the shades tend to bind up and the square corner of the aluminium shade digs into the shade pan.
Oh yeah about coming down to go fishing and bring my bucking gun. 2 problems with that, I get no days off from April to October and I don`t own a rivet gun. Doug (shacksman) has been and is coming with his gun to do the rivets.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:48 PM   #220
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I spent a couple of days with a stripper

O.K. before you all get excited it was removall. That stuff works great. Slop it on and leave it for a day. Hot water and a sponge and it comes right off and takes all the clearcoat right off. A couple of spots had to be redone because it was too cold in the shop for the removall to work properly or I didn`t get it on thick enough.
First step was to wash the entire shell to remove all dirt and debris. This was done with a bucket and sponge(sponge bath) due to the fact that my shell is full of holes and I didn`t want to splash water inside and I don`t have a floor drain in the shop.
Next apply the removall liberally with a brush. Let it set for a day and repeat the sponge bath. Once dampened the removall would literally roll up on the sponge and could be cleaned off the sponge easily. Hot water really helps to loosen it.
The most amazing transformation is to the roof. It is almost a mirror finish now. The sides are pretty good too. I can`t wait until it`s polished to see how good it will look.
Monday morning I have a date with a cyclo to polish up the areas where I have parts removed. Once that is done several of the parts can go back on and I can seal up things like roof vents,stink pipes,Air con,TV antenna,fridge vent,stove vent,clearance lights,lettering and the hinge for the front rockguard. This time I will install the hinge the right way up.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:01 PM   #221
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Love those tinted windows. Gangsta..
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:37 AM   #222
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Nice! I cant wait to be as far along as you are.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:27 PM   #223
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Wow, you washed at least thirty years off its age!
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:08 AM   #224
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Before you continue let's talk about a few things you may wish to incorporate that will make life much more comfortable, energy efficient and longer lasting.
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