Leaking Side Window, Right Rear

[3bcamper]

Hello All,

Are there instructions available for sealing the side rear windows? We determined that the right rear window, the one next to the lounge area, leaks during rain. Not sure exactly where.

Do I pull off the cladding on the inside, or is this done from the outside?

Thanks for your help.

Tim

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by 3bcamper

Hello All,

Are there instructions available for sealing the side rear windows? We determined that the right rear window, the one next to the lounge area, leaks during rain. Not sure exactly where.

Do I pull off the cladding on the inside, or is this done from the outside?

Thanks for your help.

Tim

Check out this recent thread on the topic of window leaks on Interstates.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...rr-166117.html

There are also several threads on installing these windows on Sprinters over on the Sprinter-Source forum that might help you understand the issues.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=56512

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=42998

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9122

[amirm]

Ours has had a leak from day one. Just found out where it is leaking from (between the two flanges on the inside). Seems like too much work to repair myself so making a warranty claim instead. Unfortunately appointment is in September!

[Titus]

I had the sliding door window replaced at Jackson Center. First step is to remove the trim on the inside. Easy on the sliding door, but perhaps not on your window because of the mouse fur panels that may be in the way. Then gently pry the window out (double stick tape). They use solvent to remove all traces of tape and goo from the window and frame. Then use new sticky tape and reinstall window.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Titus

I had the sliding door window replaced at Jackson Center. First step is to remove the trim on the inside. Easy on the sliding door, but perhaps not on your window because of the mouse fur panels that may be in the way. Then gently pry the window out (double stick tape). They use solvent to remove all traces of tape and goo from the window and frame. Then use new sticky tape and reinstall window.

I do not believe that the use of double-stick tape is correct, although I have not inspected a model past the 2011 model year. The windows are made by C.R. Lawrence, and since I've had to repair 3 out of 4 on mine, I'm pretty sure the latest models are installed the same way.

In actuality, the window is likely (if the same as the 2011) held in by screws around a frame on the inside of the window. The seal is not double stick tape, but D-Channel, that has adhesive on one side. To repair the leak, I would recommend two different approaches.

First, see if you can find the area where the water is coming in, and try to tighten the screws around that area (and while you are at it, tighten all the rest, too). If you were able to tighten the screws near the leak, that maybe all you need to do. Check for leaks and see. If they are all tight and it still leaks, then remove all the screws, and with a helper holding the window outside, from the inside, push gently on the sides of the windows until it pops free. It is not heavy at all. Then go outside and help remove the window. Place it on a blanket or other soft surface to keep from damaging it, facing the inside up. Inspect the D-Channel near the leak to see if you can discern any damage or reason it was leaking. Then remove the existing channel, clean the surface of the window where the D-Channel's adhesive side was on, as well as the chassis opening. Prep the surface with alcohol, apply new D-Channel, and then carefully center the window back in the frame. Go inside and re-attach the frame, and screw it to the window tightly. Then check for leaks.

But, whatever you do, don't try to simply pry out the window without removing the screws and frame from the inside, unless you want to replace the window with a new one. It will cure the leak, but your pocketbook may leak a lot of money instead. D-Channel can be obtained from your dealer, and is not expensive.

I had one window leak fixed twice-once by a dealer who didn't do it correctly, and the same window fixed at Jackson Center. The other two I did myself.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by amirm

Ours has had a leak from day one. Just found out where it is leaking from (between the two flanges on the inside). Seems like too much work to repair myself so making a warranty claim instead. Unfortunately appointment is in September!

You may want to try to simply tighten the screws on the inside frame. If you find they are loose, that may be all you need to do. I had one window that had two leaks, and tightening the screws fixed one of them. The other, however, required replacement of the D-Channel seal.

The D-Channel that was installed at the factory, on both the windows I replaced myself, was routed on the inside diameter of the window frame. However, at the corners, the opening is a bit larger, so only about 1/10th of an inch of the seal was actually sealing the window against the frame as the seal was against open space everywhere else. When I installed the D-Channel, I made sure to route it on the outside perimeter of the window frame, so all of the seal would make contact with the metal frame of the chassis. When I removed the window, I could easily see the part of the D-Channel that had been compressed, and the part of it that was not, by the chassis frame, and it was a vary narrow amount at the corners.

Leaks with the C.R. Lawrence windows almost always are caused by loose screws against the frame so it is not tight enough to keep water from entering, or damage to or failure of the seal itself. This can be caused by sloppy installation (more likely the reason yours is leaking), weathering (the reason why two of mine did), or where the seal was not making good contact with the frame, particularly at the corners. At least one other poster here had a leak from the window itself where a bad weld in the frame itself was reported. But my guess is most of these windows leak for the reasons related to the seal itself, since that's all that is keeping the water out.

Once you figure how to get the mouse fur molding off, it's not that difficult to fix. The window itself probably weighs less than ten pounds, if that, so it is very easy to handle. If it's under warranty, let the dealer do it, but don't be surprised if they do it wrong and it still leaks (mine did as they used the wrong type of D-Channel that actually had been supplied by Airstream, but they didn't know it was not the correct seal).

[Boxster1971]

Agree these window leaks can be tricky. I was the person that had leak inside the window frame, not at the outer seal. There is info on that leak earlier in this thread where I posted links to other threads on this topic. I have definitely solved my leak since not a drop has shown up inside with all the heavy rains we have had lately.

[amirm]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

You may want to try to simply tighten the screws on the inside frame. If you find they are loose, that may be all you need to do. I had one window that had two leaks, and tightening the screws fixed one of them. The other, however, required replacement of the D-Channel seal.

That is super useful information! I do know where the leak is so should be easy. I thought the screws on the inside were holding it but was not sure. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.

[Titus]

I can't say for sure what the original sticky seal was, but I can attest that they used double stick stuff when they replaced the window. Spongy foam about 1/2" wide and 1/16 to 1/8 thick with sticky on both sides. It was done at JC service center and they walked to the production building to get it, so I assumed it was the production.

I am not sure what is meant by the D channel seal. I have a black aluminum trim strip around the inside of the window. It was removed (from inside) to remove the window and reused when they reinstalled the window. I don't see why they would need to replace it when replacing the window.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Titus

I can't say for sure what the original sticky seal was, but I can attest that they used double stick stuff when they replaced the window. Spongy foam about 1/2" wide and 1/16 to 1/8 thick with sticky on both sides. It was done at JC service center and they walked to the production building to get it, so I assumed it was the production.

I am not sure what is meant by the D channel seal. I have a black aluminum trim strip around the inside of the window. It was removed (from inside) to remove the window and reused when they reinstalled the window. I don't see why they would need to replace it when replacing the window.

No offense meant, but D-Channel is likely what they used. D-Channel is a seal that is, well, shaped like the letter "D", hollow in the middle, with adhesive on the flat side. The rounded side goes against the chassis window opening, and forms the seal when it's compressed against the window frame, which is what keeps it from leaking. The inside frame has holes for screws. The screws then go through the holes in the frame, but actually screw into the window itself, pulling the window tight against the frame, and in the process, compressing the D-Channel seal securing the window to the chassis. The frame on the inside is what holds the window on, not sticky tape or seal itself. Unless they have changed the design, I do not believe you are correct that it was sticky on both sides. It may have appeared that way, but my guess is it was simply the same standard D-Channel seal that the dealer sent me, with adhesive only on the flat side of the seal. Some of that glue will adhere to the chassis window opening when the window is removed, but there is adhesive only on the flat side that goes up against the window itself.

Double sided adhesive would either not stop leaks, or worse, the window would break when removed if it was strong enough to keep it in place with nothing more holding it. That type of tape is not designed to hold windows in place, and neither is D-Channel. Only the inside frame is what holds it securely in place.

Before I began, I spoke to the service manager at Colonial RV, and after he checked, he supplied me with the correct sized D-Channel seal Airsteam uses, as it is not locally available, so I'm very confident that's exactly what JC used as well. Doing this procedure twice myself, I'm very confident my advice to the OP is correct, and would hate to see him try to pry the window out, thinking the seal is all that holds it on. That would be a very expensive mistake.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Titus

I can't say for sure what the original sticky seal was, but I can attest that they used double stick stuff when they replaced the window. Spongy foam about 1/2" wide and 1/16 to 1/8 thick with sticky on both sides. It was done at JC service center and they walked to the production building to get it, so I assumed it was the production.

I am not sure what is meant by the D channel seal. I have a black aluminum trim strip around the inside of the window. It was removed (from inside) to remove the window and reused when they reinstalled the window. I don't see why they would need to replace it when replacing the window.

I'd bet they did use the sticky tape as the CR Laurence web site lists it as an accessory for installing the window.
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...&ModelID=21915

It's certainly not the preferred method but Airstream might not have had extra D-channel seals available when you had the job done. Or it might not have been a properly trained technician. The CR Laurence technical info is lacking details and they don't offer installation instructions.

Just think of the mess Airstream has created recently with the mis-wiring of the Awning relay to cause the awning to come out when driving. Because Airstream did it right once doesn't mean they do it right all the time.

But gmillerok1 is correct on the construction, removal and proper D-channel seal to install these windows.

[Boxster1971]

Check out this video by CR Laurence about installing their windows in a Nissan NV200 van. It is not a Sprinter install, but it represents how the windows are installed with the interior trim ring and screws. I noted that it does not show or mention the external sealing gasket.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=wInS6jVCnKM

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

I'd bet they did use the sticky tape as the CR Laurence web site lists it as an accessory for installing the window.
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...&ModelID=21915

It's certainly not the preferred method but Airstream might not have had extra D-channel seals available when you had the job done. Or it might not have been a properly trained technician. The CR Laurence technical info is lacking details and they don't offer installation instructions.

Just think of the mess Airstream has created recently with the mis-wiring of the Awning relay to cause the awning to come out when driving. Because Airstream did it right once doesn't mean they do it right all the time.

But gmillerok1 is correct on the construction, removal and proper D-channel seal to install these windows.

I note that the tape from the C.R. Lawrence link has adhesive only on one side, the same as the D-Channel I used. In fact, it may be the same, but it's hard to see from the photo.

It would not surprise me if they used a different gasket at JC. The first window leak, repaired at the dealer, used a gasket provided by JC. It continued to leak. At JC, when the tech removed the window a second time, he said, "Hmmm. I wonder why they used the wrong gasket." "Because that was what JC sent" I thought silently to myself.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

I note that the tape from the C.R. Lawrence link has adhesive only on one side, the same as the D-Channel I used. In fact, it may be the same, but it's hard to see from the photo....

OK - so the D-Channel gasket has adhesive on one side. That would then stick to the exterior window frame. Was the gasket you used on a roll like the tape I mentioned above? I always envisioned it as a one piece gasket that slipped onto the frame without a seam on the perimeter.

Thanks for all the info you have provided on these window leaks.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

OK - so the D-Channel gasket has adhesive on one side. That would then stick to the exterior window frame. Was the gasket you used on a roll like the tape I mentioned above? I always envisioned it as a one piece gasket that slipped onto the frame without a seam on the perimeter.

Thanks for all the info you have provided on these window leaks.

It comes on a roll, but you buy it by the foot. If I recall correctly, the circumference of the window is about 16' but I believe I bought about 21' to be sure I had enough. It's not expensive, and you don't want to have more than one seam so it's best to go long. If you need to replace the gasket be sure to measure the outer perimeter of the window and then order a few extra feet.

I started the tape in the lower-middle of the window figuring that is the most protected area (and that's where Airstream started as well), followed the outer perimeter of the window frame, around the corner, over the top,and then back to the lower middle, and cut it about 1/2" farther, so I could compress the seam to make a tight fit. I then added a bit of silicone caulk on the seam itself to be sure no water could leak through the seam.

And so far, no more leaks.

And, you are welcome. If I can make it easier for anyone to learn from my experiences, that is a contribution I don't mind making.