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palmtreegirl · 08-09-2011, 04:43 PM

P.S. How do you deal with all the holes in the wall where this panel was attached and, it seems, plenty of other stuff - just pop rivets into them?

palmtreegirl · 08-09-2011, 04:47 PM

Oh gosh! When I said flat tire store, I meant that the parking lot is flat - oh, that was funny!

dznf0g · 08-09-2011, 04:52 PM

Rednax, I believe you are off on the tongue weight. You have included the removed FA weight to the tongue weight to get the RA weight.

TW=14,260-6960-6620=680#which is 9.3% of trailer total weight. Not enough IMHO.

Edit: I'm either losing my mind, or...did you edit your post?

dznf0g · 08-09-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

P.S. How do you deal with all the holes in the wall where this panel was attached and, it seems, plenty of other stuff - just pop rivets into them?

What panel? What am I missing?

dznf0g · 08-09-2011, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Oh gosh! When I said flat tire store, I meant that the parking lot is flat - oh, that was funny!

Well, it is a flat tire store isn't it? Every tire I've ever bought was flat until they mounted it and aired it up!

palmtreegirl · 08-09-2011, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Hello Experts,

Bad news - While removing the dirty velour panel that is to the right on the wall as you enter the camper, I discovered soft floor in one small area, right at the edge of the upright outside wall - would have been under the couch but I moved the couch - about 18" away from all the battery stuff that was under the couch. (curb side under the window) - I could push my screwdriver right in and leave an indent. The PO installed cork flooring right up to/over it - no traffic that close to the wall though. I'm hoping it isn't an issue - don't need another one of those!

I sort of changed the subject......sorry.

dznf0g · 08-09-2011, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

I sort of changed the subject......sorry.

Probably should start another thread for the new topic? But, I believe most would say to re-rivet the holes.

palmtreegirl · 08-09-2011, 05:14 PM

You're correct - don't want to 'muddy the water'.

ROBERT CROSS · 08-09-2011, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Hello Experts,

I tried to replace the chain coupler with brand new stainless steel 3500 lb rated ones - much to my dismay, after I finally got the old one off, I found that the chain link is too small and the new one would not fit through. What to do?

Please advise on how to handle the chain coupler not fitting into the safety chain links.

Liz,

I opened the links on my chain with a Tapered punch like this.
I laid the link over a one inch deep impact socket and drove the punch into the link to open it enough to accept the stainless coupler. You will need a shorter punch with a sharp taper, and a big hammer.

Bob

palmtreegirl · 08-10-2011, 04:58 AM

I'm going to give that a try this afternoon - I think I have a punch like that.....and a BIG hammer.....I'll let you know.

Balancers today and measuring the front and back.....will post that later.

Have a great day experts!

slowmover · 08-10-2011, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Rednax, I believe you are off on the tongue weight. You have included the removed FA weight to the tongue weight to get the RA weight.

TW=14,260-6960-6620=680#which is 9.3% of trailer total weight. Not enough IMHO.

Edit: I'm either losing my mind, or...did you edit your post?

Yup, edited. Note to self: Don't do this while also on telephone. Bringing Steer Axle weight/height back was the only point.

Thanks for corrections. I also was in contradiction.

More scale readings necessary as unhitched weight of Steer Axle seems high also.

dznf0g · 08-10-2011, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDNAX

Yup, edited. Note to self: Don't do this while also on telephone. Bringing Steer Axle weight/height back was the only point.

Thanks for corrections. I also was in contradiction.

More scale readings necessary as unhitched weight of Steer Axle seems high also.

She did say in OP that truck and trailer were loaded with all their stuff, so I disregarded analysis until we can get the hitch and trailer load arranged correctly.

palmtreegirl · 08-11-2011, 06:53 AM

Good Morning Experts,

Yesterday I had the Centramatic Balancers put on the trailer - had the tires checked thoroughly. ONE tires was in balance - curb side rear was WAY off and I feel must have thrown off a weight (over 2 oz off). Got them all balanced now and installed balancers.

The front tow vehicle tires were low pressure - trailer tires all ok and rear TV pressure ok.

MEASUREMENTS - picked a common place on the bottom trim line and measured front and back, both sides, and averaged the two. The parking lot looked level.

Front of trailer: 21 1/16"
Rear of trailer: 19 3/16"

Still working on re-distributing weight - working on a project involving the couch and boxing in the batteries, etc.

Any thoughts? (Please remember, I don't understand the mathmatic stuff - in language I can relate to please

.)

dznf0g · 08-11-2011, 07:03 AM

The hitch head needs to come down about a half inch relative to the shank. So if you buy a 6" drop shank and set the ball height about 1" lower than the AS coupler height (with the trailer sitting LEVEL), you shold have a good starting point of adjustment.
You want the ball lower than the coupler so that as you put more tension on your spring bar chains, the rear of the truck and the front of the tongue start to rise as weight is shifted to the front TV axle and AS axles.

This is a good starting point. I assume you still have the truck and trailer pretty well loaded with your travel "stuff". You definitely want your stuff in when setting up.

BTW the hole spacing on the shanks is 1 & 1/4", BUT they may not be in exactly the same elevation relative to the top surface of the shank, so you really need that coupler height vs. ball height dimension to start with.

palmtreegirl · 08-12-2011, 06:19 AM

Could you refresh me on where to measure? Is that the top of the part that goes on the ball (that cup part) and (on the truck) the top of the ball - when the camper is off the truck and both are on level ground?

I'll need to get the one gas bottle refilled, too, as that will add tongue weight.

I am working on my project that will add some tongue weight - we are going camping on the 21st of August so I'm trying to get this done in the next couple of days. (At least the heavy part of the project).

Shall I hold off buying a longer shank?

NOTE: There is a hex bolt holding the bracket that snaps the chains - this is about 3" long......is there any reason I can't put a shorter bolt on? This is going to make moving the bracket difficult unless I shorten it. Do you need a picture?

ROBERT CROSS · 08-12-2011, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Could you refresh me on where to measure? Is that the top of the part that goes on the ball (that cup part) and (on the truck) the top of the ball - when the camper is off the truck and both are on level ground?

I'll need to get the one gas bottle refilled, too, as that will add tongue weight.

I am working on my project that will add some tongue weight - we are going camping on the 21st of August so I'm trying to get this done in the next couple of days. (At least the heavy part of the project).

Shall I hold off buying a longer shank?

Liz,
levellevellevel!!!
Top of the cup, bottom of the ball, (as the tongue sits), that will get you real close. I would hold off until you get your measurements correct.
I checked your previous pic post, not clear which bolt is the problem?
Bob

palmtreegirl · 08-12-2011, 07:05 AM

Here is a picture of the bolt I'm talking about - very long and will not allow much movement of the bracket unless I can get a shorter one:

ROBERT CROSS · 08-12-2011, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtreegirl

Here is a picture of the bolt I'm talking about - very long and will not allow much movement of the bracket unless I can get a shorter one:

Yep,

Take it off, clean the threads, screw a nut on it, cut it down to length, remove the nut to straighten the threads. Or just find a shorter one. You could use the nut to lock down the bolt when re-installed.

Bob

palmtreegirl · 08-12-2011, 07:40 AM

OK, I'm on it - I'm going to pound a punch through the last link of the safety chains to make the opening big enough (not much needed) to take the 3500 lb chain coupler, too.

dznf0g · 08-12-2011, 07:47 AM

What Robert said on the bolt. To avoid confusion, Robert and I have described two different ways on the coupler height measurement:

Robert: Top of cup on trailer to ground = measurement #1. Bottom of round part of ball to ground = measurement #2. These two measurements match. Right Robert?

My method:Top of cup on trailer to ground = measurement #1. top of round part of ball to ground + 1" = measurement #2.

EDIT: However, these two methods will result in different final hitch heights. Robert's method sets the ball about 2 & 5/16" high. That, in my experience may compensate for the compression of a 1/2 ton truck, but I have found that a 3/4 ton to needs more like an inch.

You should try with your current shank before you spend the money, but I think you'll find the ball too high by 1/2 - 1".