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Old 08-08-2011, 01:33 PM   #21
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Dodge folks may know better than I, but I THINK you need this shank.
It happens to be an Equal-i-zer brand, but they are interchangeable.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:34 PM   #22
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Sorry about that paragraph - it doesn't make sense to me either and I wrote it!

What I meant was this: the truck and trailer are attached and they are not in a straight line - the truck is pointing to the left as in going around a corner. What I was talking about was that in these two pictures, the part (not sure of the name) is not sitting in the saddle correctly (according to me) and this does not look right (correct) to me.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sphere Guy View Post
"the 10,000 lb trailer weight it says 1200 lb"

Then you have 1200 lb bars, max weight towing is 10,000

If you do not have any more room to lower the hitch head, then you need to purchase a drop of the length you need, 3-6".


Your last Pic didn't make it thru. Your 2nd paragraph is confusing, pointing left - and can't find the parts for the right" How are you hitching up without all the parts?
I don't think this is necessarily true. If I understand PG correctly the 1200 stamp is on the hitch head. This would be a tongue load rating for the head. Since Reese spring bars are interchangeable, any number of lower bar ratings could be in play.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:42 PM   #24
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Double woops!
If the truck is in a left turn, this is how it should look. I'm not saying you are adjusted correctly, but the cams should run out of the saddles on turns. This is the sway control at work. The spring bar down force is trying to "redirect" or force you back on center.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:50 PM   #25
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More pictures:

OK, I took a picture of the hitch as it goes into the truck and of the side of the truck (I don't know if that if helpful).
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:57 PM   #26
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Opps, my bad, I thought the 1200 was from the bars.

PG, Do you know if you have air bags on your TV?
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:13 PM   #27
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No, no airbags (air suspention for load leveling) on this vehicle - yes on my Navigator though. Still deciding if I should tow with it......smaller gas tank and burns premimum gas.....cha-ching.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:21 PM   #28
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Scale slips are the way to go, as you started out. The problem with the measuring the truck method is, as you get into 3/4 and one ton trucks, the suspension drops in the rear less and the front rises less. Several hundred pounds differences in tongue weight may only translate to 1/16" rise in front. Becomes very difficult to measure accurately for proper weight distribution.

By your scale slips, you have about 10% of total trailer weight on the tongue. This is the minimum. I would like to see 12 - 15% of total trailer weight on the tongue. I would start moving some weight forward in the trailer first.

I am unclear if you mean the front and rear trailer measurements are 3" apart or if the front is 3" too high. Is the rear 1.5" low and the front 1.5" high?

Either way, you need a shank with more drop in it before you can do anything. How much more drop depends on the answer to the above question.

I am SWAGging that you have a 6" drop now installed, but it's a little hard to tell.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:26 PM   #29
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Whole Hitch Pictures

ok, this is the whole thing -
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:33 PM   #30
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Actually, you're less than 10% on the tongue weight. You should get 200# more on the tongue weight. Remember, moving 100# from the rear bumper area and adding it to the front of the trailer is approx. 200# added tongue weight. You'll have to play around with the "what goes where" storage thing.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:35 PM   #31
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The bar with the holes in it that is dropping from where it goes into the receiver hitch is 10" top to bottom and the ball is mounted as low as it will go.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:38 PM   #32
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ok, this is the whole thing -
Nothing new here.
1) lose the friction control device
2) get a longer shank
3)move the chain lift up brackets forward so chains are as near vertical as possible
4)get new safety chain links (larger diameter)
5) get about 200# more tongue weight

Then we can talk about getting the hitch setup adjusted properly.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:42 PM   #33
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Will lowering the tongue make a difference in tongue weight?

Just before I went to the weigh station, I unscrewed the gaucho couch and swung it around to the street side. My plan is to build a bench for sitting over the batteries and other solar panel and inverter equipment in the front under the windows and making a small dinette on the curb side with that bench being one of the seats. My plan was to use light-weight materials but perhaps I should use something heavier?
I really don't have much stored in the back part - only bedroom stuff.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:43 PM   #34
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I'm going to do all those things and then I'll be back (said in my best Arnold voice).
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:44 PM   #35
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The bar with the holes in it that is dropping from where it goes into the receiver hitch is 10" top to bottom and the ball is mounted as low as it will go.
Yeah, I think that is a 6" drop shank. Measure from the top surface of the shank down to the level of the ball base to hitch head interface (the surface where the ball shank and head meet. Should be about 6", if my guess is correct. Measure straight down, not diagonally over to the ball base.

Is the trailer 1.5" high in front and 1.5" low in back for a total of 3"

or

is the trailer 3" high in front an 3" low in back for a total of 6"?
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:47 PM   #36
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Truthfully, about the 1.5" vs. 3" - I did not take a measurement - that was an eyeball observation. My driveway is not level - as soon as I take the trailer to a level place, I will make an accurate measurement. I am going out and make that drop shank measurement now.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:48 PM   #37
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Will lowering the tongue make a difference in tongue weight?

Just before I went to the weigh station, I unscrewed the gaucho couch and swung it around to the street side. My plan is to build a bench for sitting over the batteries and other solar panel and inverter equipment in the front under the windows and making a small dinette on the curb side with that bench being one of the seats. My plan was to use light-weight materials but perhaps I should use something heavier?
I really don't have much stored in the back part - only bedroom stuff.
A little, but not much. Your stuff doesn't all have to go from the rear to the front. A lot of little things add up. Dishes and pots and pans in the drawer forward of the axles and towels aft....etc.
Tools under the front sofa (or whatever) instead of in the trunk. You get the idea.

I wouldn't change the lightweight refurb plans.....you'll wind up with enough "stuff" to balance things out properly, it just takes some conscious thought.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:51 PM   #38
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4 1/2" from the flat top to the flat where the ball sits. Not Enough! It's a little more (about 1/4" - 3/8") toward the trailer because it tips back.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:56 PM   #39
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OK, it's probably a 4" drop shank then. You may be able to get by with a 6" drop. We really need that fron of trailer vs. rear of trailer to ground measurement. measure from the lower belt molding to the ground.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #40
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I'm going to take that measurement as soon as I can get on level ground - I've ordered Centramatics and I'm taking it to the tire store to have them put on when they come (tomorrow or Wed.) I'll take the measurement then. Thank you so much for your help!

Where do I buy a new part? 6" drop? (depending on the measurement) - where do you get parts?
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