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Old 11-18-2013, 11:53 PM   #57
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What a difference a year makes!

Last weekend I removed a bucketful of screws that should never have been screwed into Il Progetto's walls. It looks a bit like it was attacked by a psychotic acupuncturist. It seems that a previous owner hung the horrid plastic mini blinds about 3 times, making new holes each time. At least a lot of those holes will be hidden behind a proper set of curtains when I'm done.

I also dismantled the gaucho and found these 2 things:




The first photo is a useful junction block for the umbilical connection. I was planning to add something like that, since Argosy didn't put one in my '75 (well, not unless it's under the floor somewhere) I thought they didn't use them. So it'e either a nice step forward they took in '76, or they didn't use it in trailers with the optional dinette.

The second shows some of the crud that was hiding under there, but also shows an old flojet pump that was still hoooked up to the fresh tank (which so far looks good) but not plumbed into the new PEX. It was just standing loose on the floor, so it was probably noisy as all get-out the last time it actually pumped any water. This actually pleases me because I won't feel compelled to keep/rebuild an old PAR and I can go purely on noise and performance. Anyone know if the WhisperKing pumps are actually quieter?

Next weekend is going to be another dirty one. I have to pry up the last of the OSB that's screwed down to the subfloor, vacuum up a bunch of detritus and decide whether I should remove the entire galley cabinet assembly or just the ridiculous white ceramic tile coundertop.

I also got a better view of the reason I need a new solution for the fresh water fill. The inside of that Thetford "funnel" is smashed up and there's some random mismatched piece of plastic stuck into the end of the fill neck.

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Zero Gravitas 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | Il Progetto 1976 Argosy 28 Center Bath | WBCCI# 15566

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Old 11-19-2013, 12:37 AM   #58
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I would try the flo jet to see if it is still workable. They are a pretty tough pump and I have had good luck with them. I like them better than the more common shur flow.

When you set it up, try to run a full negative wire back to the battery rather than going to the aluminum skin. I did that on my Argosy's and it makes a real difference in how the pump works.

You may wind up with a metal patch over the original cutout for the Thetford water fill for the tank. Then some more contemporary fill can be used. Or maybe someone will have a Thetford water fill you can use. Is there one on the donor trailer or has that been wrecked too?
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:25 AM   #59
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I brought the flo-jet home with me to test. If it will pump, I'll run some bleach water through it and give it a chance. It is relatively easy to get to. Running a homerun ground may be more of a challenge. I guess I could hide it behind the water pipe that will run behind the folding table and then run it exposed inside the cabinetry. The hot for the pump runs into the skin.

The Thetford filler on the donor trailer is slightly less trashed than the one on my 28. At this point the prime candidate is a cast aluminum filler neck.
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:52 AM   #60
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A little depressing

Psychology is strange business.

I learned a couple of things about '70s trailers before Il Progetto. I know that the 3 most likely places to find rotten subfloor are the fore and aft sheets and around the door. I knew that the aft section was toast and all that bloody chipboard was screwed down to the subfloor for a reason. Still, it was discouraging to find this.




Ah, well. Now I guess it's a matter of deciding whether to suck it up and do the entire subfloor.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:07 AM   #61
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if you have a couple rotten spots in your subfloor you should take off a full panel of subfloor. take a look at the insulation and for rust on your metal frames. i recently started a 79 argosy and i was suprised how disgusting it was under the floors.
for now i wouldnt spend money on a fridge and water heater, i would be looking at impact drivers, plywood, and insulation.

i used to live in SA, went to UTSA. Texas Argosies Unite ")
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #62
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try to trace everything before you burn your old subfloor.. it sits in this metal frame that runs around the perimeter of the rig. it can be a pain to get that floor out. crowbar and hammer should do the trick. also crowbars work efficiently for getting out rivets, there are youtube videos out there that show you how to do it with a drill bit. good luck, don't forget your mask and goggles when starting to mess with that stuff under the subfloor
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:46 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbetsy51 View Post
if you have a couple rotten spots in your subfloor you should take off a full panel of subfloor. take a look at the insulation and for rust on your metal frames. i recently started a 79 argosy and i was suprised how disgusting it was under the floors.
for now i wouldnt spend money on a fridge and water heater, i would be looking at impact drivers, plywood, and insulation.

i used to live in SA, went to UTSA. Texas Argosies Unite ")
I lived in SA when I signed up for AIRForums. I should have known better than to put potentially-changing data in my ID (databases are my profession) but I wasn't thinking about work when I signed up. We've been in Fort Worth for years now!

Even if the subfloor had been perfect, the belly pan is far from it. A full replacement of the belly pan was already on the menu, and removal of all the insulation, replacing it with something waterproof like reflectix. In that process any frame issues will be addressed.

I've already bought a water heater but only because a very favorable deal presented itself. The refrigerator will be a very late purchase, sometime next year, when all the other structure and systems stuff is ready for a shakedown trip.

I'm farming out the subfloor work to Top because I want to get it done in a timely fashion and done properly the first time. I don't have enough time to devote to it and I don't have a great place to work on it. I'm doing the less-skilled disassembly and prep first so I'm not paying for all that.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:10 PM   #64
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I blame that screwdriver! Probably was super-strong. Mere wood didn't stand a chance.

You're probably leaning this way, but I'd get the whole subfloor replaced. If this trailer's a keeper, then do it once and do it right.

Tom
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:16 PM   #65
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Any update in past year?
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:00 PM   #66
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I have done a lot of deconstruction and cleanup, and some planning... I'm waiting for a place in the shop for replacing axles, floor segments and the belly pan and a curved segment and pano window.
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