Argosy project - shall we get started?

[Chopper]

Say, one more question: does anyone know what these double screws all along the front window bottom are? I'm thinking a PO addition because they are phillips heads, but I don't want to take them off if they are for the vinyl interior shell.

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Almost empty, now for the mechanicals!

Cheers!

[3Ms75Argosy]

Just kidding Chopper. Looking... ah.... good! A couple of answers to some of your questions. The grey "pipe" is actually the furnace duct that goes down to your grey tank. It keeps it from freezing up in the winter while you run your furnace.

The screws on the front side (streetside, right?) are to your non-existant curtain track on that side (it goes under that side window).

Re: 74 vs 76. Our 75 is actually titled as a 76 too (it has the wide side to side binnicle like yours), but the tag in front says it was made in 5/75 - so go figure! I too would like to take our tailight fixture off. I'm thinking of the 4" led light fixtures like on the current 25' Safari models. I really like the oval shaped ones on the CCD line, but I don't think they'll fit. I just am not sure what to use for reverse lights though (a feature that I do like). I'm thinking two white ones in the middle, I'm still working on that idea.

If you're going to so much trouble to "patch" the holes inside, you may want to consider just hanging new aluminum in there... or see steven webster's thread on "updating to CCD" on his motorhome. Alansd posted some pics of his trailer that he updated with a metal look film.

The toilet - maybe if you put the toilet facing front, and put a sink over the wheels, would that work? Take a look at the 28ft CCD toilet - I think it's a simular setup.
Keep us posted.
Marc

[Chopper]

Well, I've checked the serial plate and the dealer was wrong after all. This one is plated '74 not '76.

Thanks for the answers on the grey "duct". I'm putting a new grey tank and black tank on the floor, under the queen bed, so I feel safe in taking out the old ones completely...

I'll take some pics of the rear light cover coming off for your reference...if it stops raining here and I can get my Argy into the shop space today or tomorrow.

Thanks for the read on the double screws...I'll take them out too and get the interior patched up, primed and painted.

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Thanks for your input!

My latest revision is thus:

Toilet is now up front (not at the rear),
More closet space (eg: for hanging coats),

Still have the headroom problem, but that's cosy and fine.

Kitchen is getting a little squished, so I'm looking forward to mocking this up in the Argy to see how it all fits.

The bunks at the back seem to work fine, and the full size queen will be nice (the bunk is full size twins too) - note the flat screen TV in the "master bedroom" (happy wife=happy life).

I need to keep access to the tanks sandwiched between the two floors. I'm thinking to keep the queen bed platform loose so that it can be lifted up, then the drawers come out and presto, access to the tanks.

I can't think of another way to clear the wheelwell covers unless I raise the floor, especially with this "side hall" concept.

Cheers! <still raining out>

[Chopper]

Well, got the Argy into the shed today and stripped off all the nuts and bolts (from POs) from the exterior. Got the two roof vents off (parts available), the AC off (also available, it's an old Coleman), plumbing vents, old kitchen fan out, hotwater tank out, black and water tanks out, the rear Argosy light case off (whatever we call that). And also got the rub guard (is that what it's called) off the middle of the body (and see that the upper aluminum skin overlaps the bottom, so that's good), but the lower rub guard has the lower skirt overlapping the upper aluminum skin, and the seal is not that good there anymore, so I suspect a lot of water going in there. I'm going to have to research some threads on the body repair, but...

Does anyone have experience taking that lower rub strip off and just keeping it off? Shall I Valkem the seam or can I bondo it to keep the water out?

Also, can I bondo in the holes left by the BIG screws used by the owner to put the awnings in?

Finally, all those pop rivet stems that are left behind when I took off the PO attachments...can I push those stems into the body and re-pop-rivet, or can I bondo them over? Anyone have experience doing that? THANKS!

Now the body is ready to be blasted.

Bad news about the suspension needing replacement! Thanks Andy!

I'm thinking of getting the interior blasted too before the patch & prime job.

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Pics of the rooftop now:

[Chopper]

Pics of the rear light case removal:

[Chopper]

This odd jewel is above the city water connection at the streetside rear of my Argy...er, does anyone know what it is? An indicator light maybe?

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Pics of the interior now:

[Chopper]

Here's a pic of the lower rub strip that I want to remove to get to the seam where the skirt meets the lower aluminum body (the skirt is over the body, so water can get directly into the seam). I'm thinking of cleaning and just bondo-ing the seam and leaving the rub strip off. Anyone else have experience doing this?

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Here are pics of the LARGE bolt holes left by misc items attached by the PO to the Argy...I'm thinking of bondo to cover them up. Is this a good idea...or <gulp> bad?

Cheers!

[Janet H]

About the jewel...

I Think it's a polarity indicator - s'pose to do a stupid check for shore power....

[Chopper]

Well, here it is without the lower rub rail. Boy, it was pretty cruddy underneath it! I wonder how I should seal the skirt onto the body?

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Well, what to do, the floor under the hot water tank is quite a mess!

I've heard that I can seal damaged floors with some kind of marine epoxy. I'll do a "search" for that I think.

Cheers!

[Chopper]

Well, at least this Argy is long enough that when I'm stumped with one area, I just move off somewhere else and deal with another issue for a while.

Well, removing the window was easier than I thought.

(Still haven't tackled that grey tank under the floor!)

Cheers!

[3Ms75Argosy]

Some ideas - the battery box. If there is at least some wood, you can take a tip from home remodelers and drill some holes, and fill them with an epoxy mixture - there are some ads for this type of thing in This old house, among others. OR, you could cut it out and replace it (look at Airstreamlife.com - find Vintage Thunder. I know Rich did this with his Argosy.).

Rub rail - Vulkum is the sealant of choice for aluminum trailers. That should keep the water out.

Those holes - I'm just worried with the amount of flexing that the shell does over bumps - the bondo may come off - especially at the door area (see slamming door against door frame). Will an Olympic rivet cover it, or maybe a small patch? I don't have automotive body repair experience, but that's my thoughts.

That window sure looked like it came out easily. Did you get a replacement?
Marc

[LI Pets]

The product is called Gitrot, then I would fiberglass that area. You will never deal with it again.

A lot of folks here are tearing out floors that don't need to be.

JUst glass over and it will be solid again. I plan on doing my whole floor this weekend will post pic's.

[Chopper]

I've taken the Propane Tanks to a local propane shop that can replace the old valves for OPD (Overfill Protection Device) valves. They need to flare off the propane inside though, a bit of a waste, but I can't burn it all in time .

Anyways, I took the gas regulator off too, but they said to test it with soapy water and if it doesn't leak, it's fine (replacement for the hoses and the regulator would have run CAN$120).

They said the tanks can be blasted clean, and they would put the new valves on AFTER the exterior had been worked on so the new valves wouldn't get damaged (an extra trip or two, but good idea I thought).

Also, they were 30# aluminum tanks and apparently cost CAN$250 each to replace.

Question: when the regulator is put back on the gas fitting, do I need to use teflon tape (as in water plumbing connections)? Or is there some kind of similar yellow colored tape I seem to recall a gas fitter using?

Thanks!

[3Ms75Argosy]

I believe you do NOT use gas specific tape for flare fittings - I think the flare wouldn't seat properly? I don't remember using any for my contections.

Soap test after.
Marc