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Old 08-22-2011, 07:15 PM   #21
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1976 Argosy 26
Lucan , Ontario
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[QUOTE=Phrunes;1035156]THANKS! Me too...but, it now defy's the hillbilly exterior! Hahaha I guess now I'll have to paint the exterior?


Embrace the "Hillbilly" exterior. This gets some laughs when were camping.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:52 PM   #22
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Anyone venture to estimate the number of rivets holding up a bellypan of a 26' argosy?

JC service center says 100 or "most" of mine are missing based on their 26 point inspection. What would that tell you about a recently acquired Argosy? Sounds to me like someone took it off, didn't like what the saw, and did the minimum to reattach it. At least I won't have so many to remove when I take my own peek!

Something else that was odd...the furnace was working but wasn't bolted down?

Should I be concerned about towing this 500 miles in this condition?

Over all the SC inspection didn't appear to turn up anything major....just 50+ small things they'd like to fix for me, for $1500 in parts & $6000 in labor, which didn't include new axles....that was another $3K, but it didn't appear to need them.

Looks like I now have my winter weekend to do list!
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my3sonsdad
Anyone venture to estimate the number of rivets holding up a bellypan of a 26' argosy?

JC service center says 100 or "most" of mine are missing based on their 26 point inspection. What would that tell you about a recently acquired Argosy? Sounds to me like someone took it off, didn't like what the saw, and did the minimum to reattach it. At least I won't have so many to remove when I take my own peek!

Something else that was odd...the furnace was working but wasn't bolted down?

Should I be concerned about towing this 500 miles in this condition?

Over all the SC inspection didn't appear to turn up anything major....just 50+ small things they'd like to fix for me, for $1500 in parts & $6000 in labor, which didn't include new axles....that was another $3K, but it didn't appear to need them.

Looks like I now have my winter weekend to do list!
Mine had 8 in the rear section two piece bellypan. Maybe ours were built on a Friday at quittin time? :-)
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:35 PM   #24
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Mine was built in October. They take their "Friday Night Lights" just as serious in that part of Ohio!
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:15 AM   #25
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In my case the rivets were not missing. In the original installation AS used a steel washer between the rivet head and the belly pan. Over the years the electrolysis caused the washer to cut through the belly pan, making a hole at each rivet location a little larger than a dime and a lot larger than a rivet head. I would say that 70% of the rivets had cut through the belly pan. I cut 1 1/2" washers out of a sheet of fiberglass using a hole saw then sandwiched the fiberglass washer between the belly pan and a 1" fender washer and used a 3/16" rivet. It worked really well. I had towed the trailer home some 450 miles not knowing the belly pan was sagging, didn't have any problems. If you would like photos, let me know.
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:31 AM   #26
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That's a more encouraging explanation!

I figure the bellypan is great place to learn and developing my riveting skills. What are the bellypan rivets attaching to? The steel frame?
If i drop the pan should I expect to find the same insulation as the other Airstreams between the subfloor and bellypan?
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:20 AM   #27
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Unless you have a specific reason to drop the belly pan, then don't. The rivets do go into the frame and outriggers. Mine is a rear bath model, the grey water tank is located above the belly pan section that hangs lower than the rest. I did remove and replace that portion of the pan. I removed it to gain access to the grey water tank and it's support system. Just wanted to see what kind of shape things were in.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Mine is a rear bath model, the grey water tank is located above the belly pan section that hangs lower than the rest. I did remove and replace that portion of the pan. I removed it to gain access to the grey water tank and it's support system. Just wanted to see what kind of shape things were in.
Mine too is a rear bath and I'd like to get an idea whether I have a floor rot issue back there and the condition of the rear frame sections. Seems like dropping that section of the pan would be easier than taking out the bath itself.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #29
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1976 Argosy 26
Lucan , Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my3sonsdad View Post
Mine too is a rear bath and I'd like to get an idea whether I have a floor rot issue back there and the condition of the rear frame sections. Seems like dropping that section of the pan would be easier than taking out the bath itself.

If the bath was never worked on, you are more than likely going to be tearing it out. A good indication if the back is bad, is look for corrosion on the aluminum above the rear trunk. Remove the two covers at the back of the trailer inside the trunk and use a mirror to see how bad it is. Don't remove the pan if you don't have to, it may look simple but I'll tell you from experience it is not fun trying to put it back in. I recommend having a second swear jar on hand.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:15 PM   #30
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2007 25' Safari FB SE
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Phrunes,
Could you comment on that good looking flooring?
Regards,
TKNELLE
Alamo, CA
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:06 PM   #31
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TKNELLE, it is engineered hardwood from Home Depot. It is Tiger Wood that someone special ordered. I looked at it several times but could not justify $900 in flooring for the trailer. Several visits later the Dept. Manager was there and he and I worked a screaming deal at just under $450. The install was straightforward, and it took much less material than I had purchased. Personally speaking, it is a bit too red for my tastes, but the price was right and I really only wanted to go with an engineered product instead of laminate. The trailer is open, and I have had a month of weather swings (as you know - East Bay cold nights and scorching days). So far, it is performing flawlessly with no gaps, separations or buckling at all.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:13 AM   #32
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My uncle is attempting to replace the twin mattresses in his 1972 26' Argosy trailer. The trailer is in Virgina and he resides in Maryland.

I'm hoping that I retrieve the mattress dimensions from someone here instead having my uncle drive to VA only to obtain the measurements?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:01 AM   #33
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33"X75" is the exact opening size. The mattress you get needs to be a little smaller so it will fit inside that demention.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:04 PM   #34
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Thanks so much!
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:59 PM   #35
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1976 Argosy 28
Eugene , Oregon
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Hi everyone. Thanks so much for the input. Phrunes, your pics came just at the time when I could only see the floor as it is and nothing of what it will look like. Keep that up and you're liable to get downright discouraged!! Truth is, I've not had the nerve to ask my future son-in-law and his brother come over to work on The Lady since the great tear out. The original appliances (refer, stove, and sink are resting on pallets. Still have to function check them. Summer came and this is Oregon. We had such great weather, I just didn't press them. Watched then play the whole summer and kept thinking "Next year buddy. Next year.". But all of you are giving such spot on advice, I know when we crank up again, we'll make speedy progress. Thanks so much. I'll keep you updated!
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:44 PM   #36
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I love your flooring where did you get it and how does it install?
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