'78 31' Sovereign

[87MH]

Best way to describe the recent headway on the trailer is “Slow and Painful”.

Since Daylight Saving Time came early this year, I had hoped for some major breakthroughs - hasn't happened.

Last night I go hung up on an installation of a battery switch on the tongue - perhaps tonight things will go smoother.

Pics below are of the new Water Heater installed and plumbed. The installation was not bad, and the water inlet and outlet flanged right up.

The gas line had to be rerouted through the side instead of "down", but a new hole in the floor was easily drilled to accommodate the reroute.

I ordered a couple of "RV" type 110 volt switch/receptacle boxes from Colaw RV Salvage today, and they had a GFI/Switch/Plug receptacle out of a salvage unit as well. Also ordered a 30-watt Fluorescent fixture at the same time. Colaw's is one of the places I trust to do salvage business over the phone.

I plan to mount the electrical plug and switch for the electric side of the dual heat source Water Heater inside the upper tambour cabinet in the bath. Hopefully that position will remind me to be sure that the WH is full before I flip the element to the "on" position.

It was a beautiful spring day here in Houston yesterday, with temps approaching 80. I put the twin foam mattresses out for "airing", even though there are no real odor issues with them.

Hope to have a more productive weekend.

[Safari Tim]

Looks good Dennis. Nice to get a job done!

When I installed the Atwood on my old trailer as I was traveling down the road I lost one of the little hinge pins. After I got the replacments I found a little trick I saw on another trailer.

Where the metal retainer holds the inner hinge pin in place, I added a large headed screw to keep the retainer in place so the pin can't bounce out.

Keep up the good work!

[87MH]

Painted the rear bedroom floor and installed the recovered wall pads - the electric line on the curb side is the new feed for the electric water heater.

Took time off from the interior to remove the rear axle brake drums. Found the brake pads well worn, but no deep gouges in the drums...magnets are in very good shape.

Sure am glad I had air impact tools to remove the lug bolts from the wheel rims.

[87MH]

Finished the water heater electric line.

It is mounted in the upper bath tambour - first pic is the cutout I made for the receptical housing.

Second pic - the upper switch is also to a GFI line.

I picked up all of the parts shown from Colaw's...

[87MH]

Many Thanks and Much Karma to PizzaChop and Axleman for encouragement and guidance in getting the rear axle off and out from underneath the trailer....

Following PizzaChop's lead and guidance it only took a couple of hours to remove the four bolts on the axle, the two on the shocks, and remove the curb side gas line. I disconnected the brake electric wires and lowered the axle to the ground with a floor jack - then used a furniture dolly to pull it from under the trailer.

One point of safety for the next person contemplating to do this - make SURE you put a pair of safety jacks on the frame behind the rear axle...I was certain the trailer would not settle any more, but both of the safety jacks definitely took some weight.

I intend to take the rear axle to the distributor to let them get the final measurements prior to ordering - definitely want to order them only one time.

[PizzaChop]

Dennis,

I just finished installing the rear axle this afternoon (less than an hour once everything was set).

I did find somewhere else on the forum that the standard measurement for the outside bracket spacing is 61-3/8" so I think you're measurement is good. I had 80-1/8" on my outside hub face which should be very close to your measurements as well. My point is, you're well within the ballpark.

I just posted pictures of the second axle install (didn't take any of the first) and I think you'll find them enlightening (as well as the narratives). All is very fresh at the moment.

Since you're working with slots on the axle brackets rather than holes, I think you want to use the mounting plate as a measuring rod to be sure that all four axle points are even (same place on frame). I will be double checking these when it dries out tomorrow and may need to adjust. (The price of not using OEM)

We'll be in touch...

P.S. - I just noticed your original axle has mounting holes on each side. Did it use 4 bolts per side? (8 per axle)

[87MH]

On ordering the Axles -

I could find NO distributor willing to work with a “special” axle – but the factory was more than happy to process the order – at the posted price.

There appears to be an alignment bolt on the front mount of each axle - so I can't screw up the installation alignment unless the frame is damaged (or if someone elongated/lengthened one of the holes). The axles should be easy to change - two bolts on each side of each axle plus the shocks plus brake lines. In my opinion, the shocks are useless - no other manufacturer that I know of uses them on a torsion axle - that's what a rubber axle is all about - no bounce.

Having said that, I think I will remount new shocks anyway – it won't take much time (just a little welding on the spindle extension arm – FAR AWAY from the rubber) and IF I later decide to sell the Sovereign the prospective purchaser cannot complain about the fact that no shocks are on the unit.

About the choice of axle manufacturers, I went with Dexter axles for a variety of reasons - shipping from Indiana to Texas for the two axles will be $120 – they are shipping today - I had them put both of the axles on a pallet to prevent damage - total weight is 420 lbs with the pallet. I went with the Dexter #11 axles - MUCH beefier than the Henschen. Dexter has a larger spindle, bearing, and a much heavier tube than the Henschens - I will post pics of the replacement here on the '78 Sovereign thread.

Cost for the axles was $550 each (including 12” X 2” drums and new brake and magnet assemblies) - plus the $120 shipping for the two of them, so about $1,220 delivered to Houston. The Dexter #11 axles are a 6,000 lb rating each, and the rubber inserts are cut down to a 3,600 lb rating to improve the ride - I think that the original Henschen axles were rated at 3,200 lbs. If anyone else is considering going with the Dexters they will probably need to shave about 1/4 inch off of each side of the notch for the axle mount on Trailer Frame. The Dexter axle tube is 3.03" square, is constructed of 50,000 lb yield steel, and is about ¼ inch thick, and I think the Henschens are about 2 1/2" square. Total construction and shipping time from placement of order is only about a week – assuming the axles get to Houston in 2 days as promised.

I increased the starting angle on mine from the original Henschen angle of 22 1/2 degrees down to 45 degrees down to allow a bit more clearance on the rear end - I always seem to bottom out anything that I drive/tow. I realize that the center of gravity on the trailer will be raised by a few inches. Before ordering I considered the speed that I drive anymore (REALLY slow), and the projected use (it won’t be on the road all of the time) I should be OK. The decision to raise the trailer was coupled to the fact that I have learned enough through “stupid mistakes” such as driving in rain, snow, sleet, and hail, and taking the down side of mountains and chicanes at speeds just shy of the adhesion limit on a minimum radius turn skid pad circle to SLOW DOWN or WAIT UNTIL ANOTHER DAY. The bottom line is that I drive AT or BELOW posted speeds. I also consider the tow vehicle rating – the actual tow rating is different for just about individual auto within a make or model run – too many variables NOT to check the actual vehicle rating – usually posted on the doorframe of vehicles designed to tow anything as heavy as a RV trailer.

The angle of my axles were about “flat" when on the trailer, and after being on the ground for over a week the angles of the rear axle have relaxed to only about 8 degrees “down”, so I am convinced that the 30 year old axles are shot. All of the axle manufacturers I talked with indicated that the life of their axles (even with the "new" rubber) is only 15 to 20 years.

One other manufacturer I seriously considered was “Flexiride” and had several conversations with the factory engineer on the East Coast. I really wanted to go with the “Flexiride” design as their axles had adjustable starting angles with a spline
and groove assembly. The “Flexiride” pricing also made available a disc brake option for just about the same price as drums. The main problem with the “Flexiride” was that I could not get the 3,600# rating on a “heavy duty” axle. Their 5,200# axle was already cut down from their 8,000# axle, and the engineer was unwilling to shorten the rubber any more. However, I DID like their design, and anyone who either needs or wants a lighter running gear or a 5,200# rating should certainly consider them.

I also plan to install electric jacks across the axles on each side in order to lift the whole thing to relieve weight on the torsion rubber while parked.

The comparison of the three manufacturers mentioned above is based on my personal conversation and observations only. Others certainly may take a different prospective and have differing opinions on the axle change out than I have. Even when talking with the factory reps and engineers I encountered a definite lack of willingness to accommodate anything other than their “standard design” axle, and the sales reps I talked with really had no clue as to how the axles were constructed. My point being to be sure there are sufficient drawings passed back and forth before ordering to eliminate any shadow of a miscommunication, and be sure that all parties involved are on board as far as how the nomenclature of the various mounting options are defined.

[87MH]

While work slowly progresses on the axle replacement, the interior has not been forgotten. I am doing the upholstery work I feel qualified to do, but the piping required on the Gaucho armrests was way beyond my capabilities.

Forum commercial vendor Silver Threads did a great job at a great price with a great turn around time on the armrests.

Don't know if anyone else has had a difficult time finding the 50 amp AGU fuses for the 12 volt system, but I found some replacments (but not Buss AGU's) at Graingers.

I have a couple of extras if someone is in a bind.

Gitten'erdone.

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by 87MH

...

Don't know if anyone else has had a difficult time finding the 50 amp AGU fuses for the 12 volt system, but I found some replacments (but not Buss AGU's) at Graingers.

I have a couple of extras if someone is in a bind.

Gitten'erdone.

87MH,

I find them at West Marine.

Bill

[87MH]

The new Dexter rear axle and new ST tires with Aluminum wheels is in place - Bud Time!!

I moved the trailer to readjust the ramps for the removal of the front axle.

While pulling my considerable bulk up from the underbelly of the beast at the rear bumper I noticed how much "bounce" there is with the new axle - a "spring" action which was definitely lacking with the old axles.

One of those things you have to say "duhhh" about....if you even think you need new axles jump up and down on the rear of the trailer with the suspected bad axle, and then apply the same amount of force to a trailer with known good axle(s)....I was (and am) amazed at the difference.

The mounting of the Dexter to the Sovereign was not at all difficult - after allowing room in the axle cutout in the axle splice for the larger (and more robust) Dexter axle, the only other mod was a "half hole" removal in the rear bolt area.

One note of interest - if anyone else is thinking of installing shocks with a 45 degree start angle axle, the "spindle arm" shock mount needs to be about 1 1/2" rearward (towards the spindle) for a proper mount. This allows for the new shock stud position to be about 1" FORWARD of the original shock stud.

[87MH]

Finally!!!



I have finished the primary exterior renovations I had planned on the 31 foot Sovereign. Over budget and over time, but finished none the less. Considering I rebuilt the house in New Orleans damaged with 2 feet of water during Hurricane Katrina AND constructed a camp shell at TAHI during this same time period I’m OK with the progress on the trailer.

My Aluminitus insanity has been pointed out many times. In my instance, the vintage '78 Sovereign will be on the road while I pull some major maintenance on the '87 345 MoHo (345 Saga), after that it will be parked at a “Villa” at the (Texas Airstream Harbor Inc) campground (TAHI) on Lake Sam Rayburn for use as a mobile lake house. Note – the word “Villa” is used with some serious tongue-in–cheek.


Original "Villa"






View to Lake Through Original "Villa"




Beams Going Up for New Kitchen




Looking Thruogh New Living to 345 Parking




View of Villa and Parking from Lake High Water Level






Since I plan to keep the old girl for a good long while, several “additions” were incorporated to increase the enjoyment, utility, and convenience of the unit. Many of the following individual modifications were accomplished by investing less than one hundred additional dollars each since I already had the work area open:

• Jacking Beams Between the Wheels. A double 2” X 2” X ¼” square tubing beam between the two axles and adjacent to the main frame of the trailer was welded to the axle mounting flanges. Since the Dexter #11’s are more robust than the Henschens they replaced, and the beam contacts the axles right at the flange mount, I am very comfortable jacking at this location. These new jacking beams will provide manifold benefits. These beams allow for an easy and secure area to install jacks to lift the load off of the axles whenever the unit is parked. The elimination of weight from the axles while parked will absolutely add longevity to the axle suspension rubbers and the tires. I can easily raise the wheels off of the ground for brake inspections - no bearing worked needed because of the Dexter Nev-R-Lube bearing 42mm cartridges (Dexter Bearings), another obvious advantage of the lift jacks will be in leveling and stabilizing the trailer for camping. I ran the design numbers on a single 2” square tubing assembly, and they were a bit skinny. Doubling the tubing increased the strength almost four times. A pipe flange was welded dead center between the tires to add a stabilized jacking point.

Jacking Beam Under Axle




Jacking Beam Viewed From Rear




Jacking Beam Centralizer Detail




Jack in Place for Levelling and Storage

• Spare Tire Mounting. Much time was spent under the trailer contemplating the installation of the spare tire nested in the front A-Frame. I thought long and hard about a motorized winch installed under the front Gaucho to raise and lower the tire, also gave quite a bit of thought to a manual boat winch mounted somewhere on the tongue to do the same thing. In the end, I went with a design close to the original factory layout, but reinforcing the rear frame mount with aluminum angle.

Spare Tire Mount




Spare Tire Rear Hanger Detail



Spare Tire Mount Front Hanger Detail



Rear Hanger Assembly

• New Water Heater. A new water heater, as detailed earlier in this thread, was installed as well as a second 20 amp umbilical cord. The additional electrical feeder circuit could also do duty to power a second AC should I find the need for one in the future. I opted for a NON- auto start on the fired section of the WH ("manual light" on the gas burner side) thinking that having to go outside to light the burner I will actually give some thought as to whether or not there is water in the tank to heat up. On the electric availability, the trailer will be parked at a lakeside lot at TAHI most of the time, so, with a 30/20 amp electric hookup there I opted for the electric WH element. Keep in mind that with a single 30 amp connection you cannot run both the AC and the electric WH at the same time.

• Stripping, Polishing, and Painting. Stripping took MUCH longer than anticipated – about 80 man hours - polishing was also a bit more than I originally thought, about 350 man hours. Perfect Polish suggestions and instructions were followed for the polishing execution. Many thanks to HiHoAgRV for the tips on doing the logo up right (Redo Logo). I lucked out and found 35 feet of the narrow red upper belting – the stripping fluid did the original red belting in, didn’t seem to hurt the blue belting. Most of the plastic lenses had to be replaced due to stripping fluid damage (even though they were taped up), and I redid the seams with the Acryl-R applicator I picked up when touring the factory a couple of years ago.

Curb Side Ready for Logo's and Stripes



Driver Side Ready for Road




Depth of Shine

• Belly Pan Support. The belly pan had been removed at least once before, leaving a line of scars and difficult to remove steel rivets…the sheeting is now held up by 1” x 1/8” aluminum flat bar along the edge frame and main cross members. Looks good and gives an excellent seal to the undercarriage.

Belly Pan with New Attachments


Belly Pan at Door



Belly Pan Detail

• Sewer Hose Carrier. Since I raised the undercarriage a couple of inches there is plenty of room for a 4” plastic well casing section (stronger than regular PVC) mounted crossways just behind the black tank. Made mounts out of 1/8” X 1” aluminum strap and secured them to the frame. I used stainless steel hardware. Both end caps are held on with bungees.

Sewer Hose Carrier



Curb Side Detail



Driver Side Detail







I did “hire out” the stripping/polishing job to a local handyman who I paid on an hourly basis. The total time expended on the aluminum stripping was 80 hours and another 350 hours on the polish. The cost of labor was $4300 and the total for all the stripping and polishing supplies (including a new Cyclo) for the exterior shine was $2050. So, total cost on the polish work was $6350 - $205 per foot – well over the cost to take it to a “professional”. There was a fairly steep learning curve on the stripping, and I really think I could half the stripping time should I ever go down this road again....hmmmm – I do have a bunch of supplies left over AND the Cyclo. I brought the exterior to an “almost OK” shine for a bit over 4 grand (about $132 per foot), but when the sun shone on it a “3-D” hologram effect was evident – kind of neat, but not what I was going for. To eliminate this 3-D look required well over $2300 in labor and Nuvite grade S.

Many thanks to all who offered encouragement and criticism – you know who you are.



Luck to anyone else undertaking a rebuild.

[HiHoAgRV]

WOW.

Any other comment just doesn't seem approprate.

One question - is the lift pole attached to the Kabota bucket? How?

[Jim & Susan]

Wow! Just Wow! Are you sure you want to leave this beauty parked most of the time? Looks like she's ready for the Great "Out West" Tour! Great looking work Dennis. Nice mods, too.

Jim

[swebster]

Holy Moly - how did I miss this thread! You have been busy.