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Old 06-29-2016, 05:28 AM   #15
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It is in my view very unlikely that an engine overheat, especially a very brief one, would be the cause of a bearing issue resulting in a loss of operating oil pressure. IMHO something else is happening.
And you would be right. When motor oil overheats, the chemical composition changes. It turns into a substance resembling varnish, which leaves a sticky residue on surfaces in place of the slippery film that's supposed to be there.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:26 AM   #16
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Low oil pressure, after overheating

You can send an oil sample in. They will tell you where the metal is coming from.

http://m.blackstone-labs.com/OrderTestKit
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:57 AM   #17
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Update

Soooo
I strained the oil through some more nylon
I didn't see any more... Junk in the oil
I agree that 15/50 is a bit heavy, but I just wanted to see if it improved the pressure a lot or just a little and it seams that it didn't improve it much😒
I'll probably go to back change the oil and filter again I'll probably with 5/30 run it again for an hour or two and change it again.
The only reason I plan to do it that way is because the oil I just drained still looked a little burnt I figure a few quick changes will flush all the old oil and any sludge and "stuff" out
I might get to test DRIVE it over the weekend
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:04 AM   #18
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While 5W may be too thin, I think xx-W50 is too thick. I pull with a 40 year old big block. I use 10W-30 per the owners manual.

It is too heavy for an engine that does not have compromised oil pressure.

But on review, I meant to type 20/40....

Typo.


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Old 06-29-2016, 08:15 AM   #19
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Low oil pressure, after overheating

Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
And you would be right. When motor oil overheats, the chemical composition changes. It turns into a substance resembling varnish, which leaves a sticky residue on surfaces in place of the slippery film that's supposed to be there.

True, I have taken several engines apart, the ones that have been very hot have a distinct smell of burnt oil.

Even then though, the bearings were not compromised.

It takes a pretty long heat sink to compromise the bottom end, and in most every case a person would have developed a top end failure in concert. (Blown head gasket, cracked head, scored or melted piston)

What makes me think something else is up is that this engine seems to have suffered bottom end damage and apparently no top end damage, this is not what I would consider normal for an overheat.


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Old 06-29-2016, 08:37 AM   #20
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Does the 454 engine have an oil filter bypass valve? If so perhaps it was affected by the over heating allowing a lower pressure to flow thru the valve instead of the filter.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:48 AM   #21
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True, I have taken several engines apart, the ones that have been very hot have a distinct smell of burnt oil.

Even then though, the bearings were not compromised.

It takes a pretty long heat sink to compromise the bottom end, and in most every case a person would have developed a top end failure in concert. (Blown head gasket, cracked head, scored or melted piston)

What makes me think something else is up is that this engine seems to have suffered bottom end damage and apparently no top end damage, this is not what I would consider normal for an overheat.


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Might be low oil pressure caused the overheat. Since it was verified by gauge that oil pressure is low, and it's not a filter issue, the pan will have to be pulled to replace the pump. I'd check out the bottom end too. A compression check might reveal some top end damage.
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Old 06-29-2016, 09:48 AM   #22
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By pass?

Does the 454 have a by pass valve? I don't know?
My engine does have a external cooler.
Anyone here ever have trouble with one? or ever replace one?
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:08 AM   #23
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If previous owner used 5/30 he was unbelievably lucky or did not use the rig in any kind of hard heavy driving. I have worked on my motors for years and 10/30 at least . I would run 10\40 And replace 2 quarts with Lucas oil and a napa gold filter . You can get a pressure test kit and put it on to test the accuracy of your electronic gauge. If you over heated you could have very easily clogged or damaged your oil pressure sensor. Running 5\30 is like pumping water thru thru a 454. Running hot can also gunk up the oil pump. The easiest way to check for sludge build up in a motor that can happen over time is to pull a valve cover and look for build up around rocker arms and drain holes on heads. Good luck.
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:14 AM   #24
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10w 30 mineral all day long. I see no point in going synthetic or 10w 40. I would suggest you take it into a reputable truck shop and get them to run some compression tests and take it from there.


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Old 06-29-2016, 12:46 PM   #25
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In a motor with compromised bearing clearances to the point of causing low oil pressure, 20/40 is what I would run. To each his own though.

A compression check really has nothing to do with a compromised bottom end or cam bearings.

As far as 5W oil, I wont use that grade on anything, particularly an older engine. For me that goes for 10W too. (There is no way I would run these in a flat tappet engine, the zinc-less oil sold today is catastrophic enough for non roller cams)

These grades are more about vehicle manufacturers making CAFE standards than they are about engine protection.


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Old 06-29-2016, 12:48 PM   #26
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FWIW, while the oil pressures you are running now are marginally low for a 454, in absence of other problems I would not jump into a rebuild, with thicker oil, the engine could still last for a very long time.


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Old 06-29-2016, 12:58 PM   #27
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10/40 - 10/30

I would never use 10/40 I consider it garbage
I used to use it on my first cars way back (1980)
But when I restored my 1967 ford countrysedan with a 390 in it you could watch the 10/40 get hot and oil pressure would suffer a friend of a friend who race cars at the Rockford speedway told me not to use the 10/40 and use 10/30
There was a noticeable difference when things got warm on the 90* summer days oil pressure did not suffer nearly as much
In leaning to 10/30 from now on! In my motorhome
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:58 PM   #28
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Wondering, what about Slick 50 or a type of teflon stuff? I had a Dodge Omni with Slick 50 in that I lost the fan belt going to work once, I went over Kingsbury grade to work twice before it occurred to me that I also had lost the water pump.... engine was way hot, but just used more oil after that. I always credited the Slick 50 for the engine to still be running.
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