removing interior walls -1962 Globetrotter

[pratte]

Hi folks, our 1962 was so rodent infected that we've gutted the unit down to the interior walls. That is the next chore.

Anyone have experience with removing the rivets? How about cleaning the walls once removed?

Plan is to remove the interior walls, then the flooring before building her back up. All help is appreicated.
Jane and Henry
Orchard, CO

[Happycampers]

Hi pratte and welcome, I think I would clean the walls before removing them, it would be easier because they are fastened and won't be flopping around like they would when they are off. Most any kind of good cleaner will work. To get the rivets out just get a good fast drill and a 1/8" drill bit and have at it. Hope this helps.

Marvin

[markdoane]

Don't want to disagree with Marvin, but I found it easier to take the panels out, lay them against a wall, and hit them with the TSP and pressure washer out in the open air.

The hardest part is the ceiling panel and end caps. I think you might want to leave those in place.

[68 TWind]

An air drill is best cause it is faster, but any electric will do. Buy several packs of 1/8 drill bits. When one gets dull, and it will, toss it and get a sharp one. One trick, when the shank of the drill fills up with the heads of the rivets, get a pair or pliers, grab the heads and put the drill in reverse. The heads will spin off the shank of the bit in a few seconds.

[Lumatic]

Removing the bulkheads, interior skin and floor will reduce the integrity of the monocoque construction until reinforced.

[Happycampers]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Don't want to disagree with Marvin, but I found it easier to take the panels out, lay them against a wall, and hit them with the TSP and pressure washer out in the open air.

The hardest part is the ceiling panel and end caps. I think you might want to leave those in place.

Good idea on the pressure washer, never even thought about that but I didn't need to take ours out so we just washed it inside.

Marvin

[Ganaraska]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

Removing the bulkheads, interior skin and floor will reduce the integrity of the monocoque construction until reinforced.

Good thinking. Might be a good idea to remove the panels a few at a time, clean behind them and put in new insulation, then replace the panels before going on to the next section.

[Birdwell57]

As long as your not moving the camper, the monocoqueisity (is that a real word?) should not be an issue.

[bwaysteve]

You might invest in a rivet removal tool from Aircraft Tool Supply or other aircraft tool suppliers.It's not too expensive and really made the job easier.It is spring loaded and you start the bit in the rivet indent the push.It grabs the head and keeps it from spinning.
If not ,at least get a #30 cobalt tipped bit which is the perfect size for the 1/8 in rivets.

[bwaysteve]

PS Jane and Henry, Check my post "Gutting the 65" to see pics and an explanation of how I removed the floor sections intact with a multitool from HF and a Sawsall.

[pratte]

Thanks for all the advise. I might even consider a combination of techniques for the walls. Sounds like cleaning them inside for the interior facing sides could be easier when the panels are still attached. Additionally, its something I could do without Henry's help. When we get them removed, the pressure wash technique could be used to clean the backside and wash off old insultation or any residue that the interior cleaning leaves.

I especially appreciate the tip on the bit type, we've already ruined 6 lower quality bits! And the suggestion for Rivet tools, anything that expedites the job will be helpful.

I read the thoughts about stability of the outer shell, would the order of the removal make a difference? I was thinking in addition to the cleaning, removal was necessary for replacing the flooring.

[Wabbiteer]

If your pop-rivets have a steel mandrel - the center shaft that a pop-rivet 'gun' pulls to bind the rivet until it breaks away at a pre-set force- no drill will easily force it back let alone cut into it. That is when the bit bites the steel and snaps or the drills boring wanders off center.

As pre-drill preparation taking an sharp thin awl and tapping the center 'back' allows the drill to cleanly defeat the rivet flange.

Also be wary when there are air gaps between the aluminum sheets, one may get the outside flange removed but have the rivet 'tube' left perching from the inner sheet.

Often the steel mandrel exists in the hanging tube which makes it 300% harder to remove, using a thin nail or narrow tool-steel punch BEFORE drilling to push the mandrel all the way through is easiest cure... Then a sharp wood chisel will cut it cleanly but sometimes not - careful as it will cause the drilled hole to go oblong and weaken the next rivet if you try and cut the tube with steel mandrel.

1-in-100 will fight back every which way - I've enjoyed grinding them off but there are other ways to remove the extreme stubborn ones... Maybe someone else will share?

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by pratte

I read the thoughts about stability of the outer shell, would the order of the removal make a difference? I was thinking in addition to the cleaning, removal was necessary for replacing the flooring.

Birdwell is right about the mono thang. It's Ok as long as you don't tow it or have any wild parties in it. If you do you can X brace it from the inside with 2x4s

[NJtoNC]

welcome fellow 62 GT owner! whats your VIN? are you a OH or CA? always on the lookout for sisters. got pics?

[ts8501]

A link to the Rivet Removal Tool here. It really makes the task go better, and you do not slip off the head, causing unwanted damage.

[pratte]

All the advise really has helped. Henry purchased a rivet remover and that is doing the trick. Its slow and we are taking our time so as not to damage any of the panels.

It seems that Sunday afternoons are about our only time to spend on this project so it's going pretty slow.

I have some pictures and I'll post them as soon as I figure out how!

Keep that advise coming.
Jane & Henry

[Minno]

I washed our interior panels laid flat on the grass in the back yard with some heavy duty cleaner and a good long handled brush. Came out clean as a whistle! Now their coiled into loose groups awaiting wiring and insulation. Our hope is to get them back in by fall. (Our daughters wedding is taking all our time right now - 3 more weeks.....)
If you're replacing the floor, you could powerwash them inside the trailer before you take them out - just wear a bathing or wet suit!

Kay

[pratte]

Its been a month since I've posted, but we took this advise and I'm proud to say, the insides are out! We purchsed a AirCraft Rivet removal bit and yes, that was the ticket! Really speed up the job with less destruction of the metal around the rivets, Thanks, Steve. Rivet Master, your insights on the removal of stubborn rivets was invaluable - hopefully we have less damage on these panels than we would have.

I washed the interior with a good cleaner (Krud remover) before we took them out and now all the panels are laying in the shed. I do plan to powerwash them also to remove the remains of insultation and pooh smell before we reinstall.

Henry will take the floor out next and has looked at your restoration, Steve. He thinks he will leave walkways so we can clean underneath and still be able to carefully reach stuff before removing all the floor. Keep your fingers crossed that the cross members are not rotted or rusted!!

Question: can someone recommend the type insulation to purchase and the best way to install this to the skin?

Again, thanks to all.

PS: Birdie Momma, our airstream was manufacutred in Santa Fe Springs, CA, I'll post the vin # soon.
Jane

[VIKING]

Originally Posted by pratte

Its been a month since I've posted, but we took this advise and I'm proud to say, the insides are out! We purchsed a AirCraft Rivet removal bit and yes, that was the ticket! Really speed up the job with less destruction of the metal around the rivets, Thanks, Steve. Rivet Master, your insights on the removal of stubborn rivets was invaluable - hopefully we have less damage on these panels than we would have.

I washed the interior with a good cleaner (Krud remover) before we took them out and now all the panels are laying in the shed. I do plan to powerwash them also to remove the remains of insultation and pooh smell before we reinstall.

Henry will take the floor out next and has looked at your restoration, Steve. He thinks he will leave walkways so we can clean underneath and still be able to carefully reach stuff before removing all the floor. Keep your fingers crossed that the cross members are not rotted or rusted!!

Question: can someone recommend the type insulation to purchase and the best way to install this to the skin?

Again, thanks to all.

PS: Birdie Momma, our airstream was manufacutred in Santa Fe Springs, CA, I'll post the vin # soon.
Jane

Hi Pratte,

I used Prodex insulation from www.insulation4less.com
to do my Safari with. I have some info on my long-neglected blog, which you can get to from the link below. It beats the heck out of using fiberglass or Reflectix, IMO.

Rich the Viking

[ck21084]

Is there a reason that we can't use the spray on urethane foam that is used in houses? It seems like it would fill all the voids and help with rodent issues as well as water.