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Old 07-30-2019, 08:51 AM   #1359
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Tv

Anyone replaced there TV with a smart TV
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:53 AM   #1360
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eagletoo, That is really nice. When you can post some pics.
Clint
Patrick did a recent excellent video on the new twin. I will be focusing on making sure the hot water heater is properly supported (unlike my 23CB), operates like it should (changed out 3 boards) and, of course, that all the other systems operate correctly.

Pretty excited!
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:42 PM   #1361
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I learned something new already after installing my Victron. I brought the trailer back to the yard today. The batteries were fully charged. After jacking the trailer up and down to attach it to the TV, I looked at the meter and the TV was charging the battery at 15 amps. I conclude that the jack uses a lot of power, and when I arrive to dry camp I will try to do most of my jacking with the tow vehicle attached and running
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:45 PM   #1362
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Patrick did a recent excellent video on the new twin. I will be focusing on making sure the hot water heater is properly supported (unlike my 23CB), operates like it should (changed out 3 boards) and, of course, that all the other systems operate correctly.

Pretty excited!
I secured my water heater today. AS jammed a short piece of scrap 2x4 and 1x4 under one side. The "interesting" thing is it sticks up with its top higher than the normal bed height. It was in the wardrobe, so it didn't matter. I have to space the top of the bed supports 1-1/2" higher all around... both sides... because of this. When I removed the cr......py support AS used, I noticed the side metal was distorted, so I put a better support in and strapped it down as well.

I have not changed a board yet, but I might want to. Sometimes the WH on LP lights then goes out several times before it stays lit.

Clint
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:32 PM   #1363
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Clint,
Did you do the spray foam support or just wood?
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Old 07-31-2019, 07:41 AM   #1364
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Clint,
Did you do the spray foam support or just wood?
I built up 1x4s to 3-3/4” side to side on side away from wall, screwed it to the floor; then pulled down with moderate to light duty ratchet straps. THEN, looked to see if outside wall looked happy and it did. Feels very solid.

I could still foam it if you think it would improve it.

Clint
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Old 07-31-2019, 07:46 AM   #1365
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I built up 1x4s to 3-3/4” side to side on side away from wall, screwed it to the floor; then pulled down with moderate to light duty ratchet straps. THEN, looked to see if outside wall looked happy and it did. Feels very solid.

I could still foam it if you think it would improve it.

Clint
Foam helps with lateral movement also but I think you’ve got it covered with the ratchet strap.
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Old 07-31-2019, 08:32 AM   #1366
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Clint, if possible can you take some pics of your hw heater upgraded installation? I have a feeling I will see the same stock cruddy install that you saw.
Thanks
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Old 07-31-2019, 10:46 AM   #1367
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I learned something new already after installing my Victron. I brought the trailer back to the yard today. The batteries were fully charged. After jacking the trailer up and down to attach it to the TV, I looked at the meter and the TV was charging the battery at 15 amps. I conclude that the jack uses a lot of power, and when I arrive to dry camp I will try to do most of my jacking with the tow vehicle attached and running
Yes that motor is a hog, but not really a factor given the short bursts. Let's call it 10 seconds to lift off ball, then 20 seconds up and down to level, for a total of 30 seconds. Heck lets round up to a minute of use. That's .25 amp hours out of your 160 amp hour 'allotment" (50% discharge) with healthy, fully charged batteries--negligible. But I applaud your 'conservation' thought process! I used a headlamp at night in the trailer when boondocking, even with LED lighting being so frugal. Saving watts was an obsession. Hoping with my new solar install I won't have to worry about it much any more.

You like how I threw that plug for your next project in there?
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Old 07-31-2019, 11:02 AM   #1368
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On that topic then. If I add a zamp solar, in order to take advantage of the prewire, what does it include? Do I have to buy panels only, or also a controller? The alternative is 105 batteries, and cycle them between 90 and 60 percent using the genny to maximize their service life. The extra Ah capacity could be the gap filler.
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Old 07-31-2019, 11:18 AM   #1369
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On that topic then. If I add a zamp solar, in order to take advantage of the prewire, what does it include? Do I have to buy panels only, or also a controller? The alternative is 105 batteries, and cycle them between 90 and 60 percent using the genny to maximize their service life. The extra Ah capacity could be the gap filler.
Probably better as a whole new thread in the Solar part of the forum. Whether you use Zamp, or Renogy, or any other brand of panel (I chose Renogy...less than half the price of Zamp), you will need a charge controller which you'd install under the bed. Then most people add a switch to take the panels offline, and a switchable fuse between the controller and batteries.

Your trailer also has a portable solar plug-in on the tongue I believe? Of course then an option is to get a portable panel or suitcase, that might be enough for your needs. Those portable systems come with a charge controller already integrated. The portables have the advantage that you can move them to where the sun is if you're parked in shady areas.

I added 400 watts on my 23d (corner bed) and fully DIY, about $1,000 for the 'solar' piece. Then included the Victron BMV-712 ($235). Lastly, I switched to the T105s 6V option. The batteries is the next 'logical' upgrade, as it takes you from 160 useable amp hours to 225. That right there is a biggy. I just decided to get it all done at once.
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Old 07-31-2019, 01:33 PM   #1370
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Have you done any research on what the impact is of a bad battery when they're connected in series?
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Old 07-31-2019, 01:46 PM   #1371
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Have you done any research on what the impact is of a bad battery when they're connected in series?
No. But it wouldn't be good. Each cell is 2.x volts. One dead cell puts me down around 10v so I'd be dead in the water. If I understand it right. With 2x 12v in parallel, obviously one good battery and a dead cell in another would give me 12v still, just less capacity. But then I think that an imbalance between the two has some impacts too? I don't know for sure.


The chance of a bad cell in a 6v is a risk I'm OK with. The advantages outweigh that for me.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:47 PM   #1372
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pcskier,

Since ampere / hour is additive with parallel and voltage additive on series. My original Interstate 80s would have 80 Ah usable (yes?).

My 225 Ah in series has just that, 225 usable. I see the comments from many folks that seem to think they are going to kill their batteries if they go below that 12.0 or 11.9 resting volts. You can indeed go lower to as low as 11.5 if done seldomly without serious harm.

You are right, this subject is covered for better or worse on other threads.

But, taking care of fellow 23'ers... I would say the ill effect of losing a battery whether if series or parallel is about the same. I have used 6 volt for years and have never see a 6 volt go nuclear. I do, however maintain flooded cells correctly. A person who never even check fluid will be our positive indicators for what that would look like.

I am not a Zamp fan. I don't like the SAE plugs. Don't like the prices. Especially after hearing a Zamp presentation at the recent International WBCCI rally. He said the factory wiring to the roof, even if only10 awg will support 450W of PV. I think they only make a PWM controller and its parallel only configuration. My 23FB has 10 awg back to the rear fantastic fan. (I didn't use it) Adding even 300W would require running wire back up the front (left and right), which would cause huge voltage drops. It seems to me, AS only expected a person adding a single 100 W for my model and year. If they wired to the front fan (maybe on some models) you could add 300W in parallel. I am speaking for me, other's might have no problem with the high voltage drop numbers.

If Zamp has a MPPT I haven't see it. I saw a AS at the rally that had a plug in front which only was wired to the batteries (not connected, I suppose).

Also, someone reportedly has 8 awg from the factory. That would make a big improvement.

Clint
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