Hello
With my 12v Interstate Batteries in bad shape, I decided to replace them. Since I was going to spend some $, I also decided to upgrade to 6v batteries. This necessitated an increase in the height of the battery box to accommodate them.
I drew up what I wanted on sketchup and had a local welder take some "c" channel and weld up an extension. I bolted this to the box and by flipping one of the channels was able to accommodate the cover. Here is a picture of the finished product as well as the measurements I used.
I am installing a Progressive Dynamics PD4655 later in April. I did have to extend the battery hold down a little and cut the plastic battery tray underneath to accommodate the 6v footprint.
Hello everyone. I’m looking for tips to level my 23 FB when camping. I bought a LevelMate Pro in the off-season and I’m using it camping for the first time. It’s a cool little gadget. I calibrated it by leveling my trailer using a 4-foot bubble level on the floor of my trailer. I feel like my calibration is a bit off. I’m close to level, but not quite there. My bathroom door will slowly swing open if not fully closed. My fried eggs run slowly to one side of the pan when cooking breakfast.
Here’s where it gets a bit strange. I decided to recalibrate things at the campsite, so I used the small bubble level from my toolbox. When I place the small level on my countertop or stovetop, it shows that I’m a little bit low on the street side. This is the direction that my eggs run. When I place the level on the floor, it shows that I’m a little bit low in the curb side. When I place the level on the dinette, it shows that I’m perfectly level. What gives? Where do you place your level when you set up camp?
Based on the direction that my eggs run and that my door opens, I tend to think the kitchen counter might be the right spot.
__________________ Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
-- snip -- Where do you place your level when you set up camp?-- snip --
Dennis - the subject has been discussed prior, as you might have guessed. https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...er-181775.html There are some other threads too. We level the bed a bit high at the head - you pick your preference. Pat
Hello everyone. I’m looking for tips to level my 23 FB when camping. I bought a LevelMate Pro in the off-season and I’m using it camping for the first time. It’s a cool little gadget. I calibrated it by leveling my trailer using a 4-foot bubble level on the floor of my trailer. I feel like my calibration is a bit off. I’m close to level, but not quite there. My bathroom door will slowly swing open if not fully closed. My fried eggs run slowly to one side of the pan when cooking breakfast.
Here’s where it gets a bit strange. I decided to recalibrate things at the campsite, so I used the small bubble level from my toolbox. When I place the small level on my countertop or stovetop, it shows that I’m a little bit low on the street side. This is the direction that my eggs run. When I place the level on the floor, it shows that I’m a little bit low in the curb side. When I place the level on the dinette, it shows that I’m perfectly level. What gives? Where do you place your level when you set up camp?
Based on the direction that my eggs run and that my door opens, I tend to think the kitchen counter might be the right spot.
Hi Dennis.. those little rubber grommets that hold the grate off the stove top are notorious for wearing out or popping through the top into the oven cavity. I keep some spare ones around all the time. I occasionally have to lift the grate up a little on the back or front or side to side depending on what way my eggs are running.
Dennis - the subject has been discussed prior, as you might have guessed. https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...er-181775.html There are some other threads too. We level the bed a bit high at the head - you pick your preference. Pat
I figured this one had been heavily discussed. I’ll make a few minor tweaks at our next campground and recalibrate. It’s not off enough that I feel a need to make adjustments in our current campsite, but I’ll adjust as we go. Thanks.
I am having some new curtains made for my 2010 23fb. It is aways away in storage and I wanted to get an idea of how many G Glide with elastic strap pieces to order. I could take the old ones off but I suspect the elastic is tired.
If you have a minute can you give me a count of the number of G glides used on your curtains that wrap the front?
My questions have probably been answered somewhere on the site but I can't seem to narrow it down.
We had two 100 watt solar panels added to the roof of our 2018 23FB by the dealership in Salt Lake about a year ago. There is no additional monitor that I can find, just the standard one in the bathroom.
Here are my questions:
Am I just not finding a monitor somewhere for the panels or is this something I need to add myself? If I do, does someone have recommendations for a more accurate monitor than the stock one in the bathroom with the tank readings etc.?
Secondly, I've just picked up a Goal Zero Boulder 100 watt briefcase (portable) panel. It doesn't have a built in charge controller. I've already picked up an accessory plug adapter to reverse the polarity (they're opposite each other). What I need to know is if I have to add a charge controller. I'm assuming the roof panels have a charge controller so I'm wondering if the plug for portable panels ties into that.
Thanks.
Alright...looking again at the wiring on the portable solar plug it's obvious it just goes straight to the positive and negative terminals on the battery so I'll certainly need a charge controller.
I'm still curious about a monitor/panel to show what's actually happening with my rooftop and portable panels in real time.
I’ve got an aftermarket Zamp system on my roof, and a Zamp charge controller on the wall in the galley, right next to the inverter switch. I would expect to find a charge controller there. I might be mistaken, but I believe this is the factory location.
__________________ Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
Well, they added the solar a year or so after I bought the trailer so there was no factory install there. Just the inverter switch. It always seemed odd to me that there was no readout in the trailer.
Does anybody know if having two six volt batteries wired in series is going to change the installation on the Victron BMV-712?
2 six volt batteries in series is just like a twelve volt battery; the only difference is the strap that connects the two is external, provided by you. Treat the pair like one battery.
__________________
Is taking it all with you, really getting away from it all?
I finished my 2015 23FB bedroom remodel and thought I would share some info and a few photos....
.... The project took about five weeks of part-time labor while living in the trailer. Total cost of materials and misc. supplies, not including electrical, came in just shy of $2000. I'm very happy with the result. Now I can kick back and enjoy myself!
I like it RC. When I converted to twins, I actually cut that wardrobe so feet go underneath then used the lower part, at least the drawers, for a center nightstand. The space I have for a mattress is actually over 80"; with one side being slightly longer.
FE
__________________
Is taking it all with you, really getting away from it all?
I am having some new curtains made for my 2010 23fb. It is aways away in storage and I wanted to get an idea of how many G Glide with elastic strap pieces to order. I could take the old ones off but I suspect the elastic is tired.
If you have a minute can you give me a count of the number of G glides used on your curtains that wrap the front?
Thank you.
Do you still need this Big?
FE
__________________
Is taking it all with you, really getting away from it all?
Alright...looking again at the wiring on the portable solar plug it's obvious it just goes straight to the positive and negative terminals on the battery so I'll certainly need a charge controller.
I'm still curious about a monitor/panel to show what's actually happening with my rooftop and portable panels in real time.
Battery status monitor might be Victron, Trimetric (old school) or AiLi (economical and very basic). Requires a shunt (some come with) plus some fairly simple wiring changes on the B- side of things.
The so called "solar ready" campers with the Zamp connector would require a portable panel with controller. I seriously doubt these portable panels could use the same controller as the roof panel.
I have Trimetric in the 23FB, which I understand and like, while keeping the cost low, I went with AiLi in the mini toyhauler. It tells me accurate voltage, current and accumulative Ah, and a very good guess at battery percentage full. You simply top calibrate it at the property moment.
The Trimetric (TM-2030RV) can show much more detailed, such as time since certain events and past 5 day data; it is very programmable... but technology wise it is a far cry from what the Victron can show. But, it works for me.
__________________
Is taking it all with you, really getting away from it all?
I finished my 2015 23FB bedroom remodel and thought I would share some info and a few photos. The queen bed was reduced to a short single berth on the curb side and a large desk on the road side. I am 5'8" and just barely fit into this berth but I have been sleeping in it for six weeks and have no issues. It would not work for anyone taller. The alternative would have meant losing the two drawers under the wardrobe and cantilevering the remaining cabinet, modifications I did not want to undertake.
I tried to construct the cabinetry while mimicking Airstream's quality and methods. No glue was used but lots of pocket joints to connect plywood in butt joints. The vertical laminate is the same as the original Gold Alchemy but the original horizontal laminate is no longer available so I went with black matt. Drawer guides, hinges and latches were of comparable quality. Plywood was ¾" 13-ply baltic birch grade BB/BB, overkill in quality and weight but all that I could find at the time.
Shore power, inverter and 12 volt outlets were extended from the curb side to the desk.
The batteries on the A-frame were removed and replaced with two BB lithium ion batteries and located under the bed. The final tongue weight was measured using the bathroom scale method. The trailer was loaded for extended travel and has three 100 watt panels on the roof. The tongue weights are 558 lbs. no water and full propane and 636 lbs. full water and propane.
The project took about five weeks of part-time labor while living in the trailer. Total cost of materials and misc. supplies, not including electrical, came in just shy of $2000. I'm very happy with the result. Now I can kick back and enjoy myself!
Great job RC! Just curious, where did you find the matching drawers for the desk? Jeff
I finally had a chance to take my 23FB to the CAT scales today. It's not fully equipped for camping, but it's close. It has 95% of our gear in it for most trips. The major difference is that it's still winterized, so all the tanks are empty, the water heater is empty, and the water lines are empty. One of my propane tanks was 100% full, and the other was 58% full. My truck was empty and had a full tank of gasoline. I used the three pass weight methodology. The first pass was the truck alone. The second pass was the truck and trailer without the weight distribution hitch bars in place. The third pass was the truck and trailer with the weight distribution bars in place.
My WDH is clearly redistributing some of the weight back to the front axle. When I weigh the truck alone, the front axle shows 3,320 lbs. With the trailer and no WDH, the front axle loses 240 lbs, dropping to 3,080 lbs. When I add the WDH system, it puts 160 lbs. back to the front axle, bringing it to 3,240 lbs. Additionally, the WDH takes 220 lbs. off of my rear axle.
For those of you with more towing experience than I have, what do you think about my numbers? Does this seem like a reasonable setup, or do I need to adjust it to put more weight to the front axle?
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
__________________ Dennis
Past:
Airstream International Serenity 23FB
Newmar Ventana 3715
Best thing we purchased for the lateral leveling, place the level on bumper and determine which side needs to come up, insert the chocks on that side and roll back until level. Need a person in the back to monitor. 2-Pack Camper Leveler, Chock Kit | Andersen 3604 x2 | Less Than 5 Minutes to Level Your Camper or Trailer | Levelers for RV | Simply Drive On. Chock. Done. | Faster and Easier Than RV Leveling Blocks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S...ing=UTF8&psc=1
Best thing we purchased for the lateral leveling, place the level on bumper and determine which side needs to come up, insert the chocks on that side and roll back until level. Need a person in the back to monitor. 2-Pack Camper Leveler, Chock Kit | Andersen 3604 x2 | Less Than 5 Minutes to Level Your Camper or Trailer | Levelers for RV | Simply Drive On. Chock. Done. | Faster and Easier Than RV Leveling Blocks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S...ing=UTF8&psc=1
K, with a Levelmate you could eliminate a need for a second person and at times lessen the need for leveling. By being able to see level while still behind the wheel, you could stop or reposition, at the most level spot at the site. Would help also while driving onto the Anderson levelers. Just a thought.
FE
QUOTE=Dennis C;2487028]I finally had a chance to take my 23FB to the CAT scales today...
... When I weigh the truck alone, the front axle shows 3,320 lbs. With the trailer and no WDH, the front axle loses 240 lbs, dropping to 3,080 lbs. When I add the WDH system, it puts 160 lbs. back to the front axle, bringing it to 3,240 lbs. Additionally, the WDH takes 220 lbs. off of my rear axle.
... what do you think about my numbers? Does this seem like a reasonable setup, or do I need to adjust it to put more weight to the front axle?
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.[/QUOTE]
DC, you are on track. Your tongue wright is 740#, of which, your adjusted WDH has moved 60# to the trailer, 80# to the front axle, and has left the rear axle to pickup the rest, at 600#. Keep on mind your WDH hitch is truck cargo; not tongue weight. So, take away what ever it weighs from 740# and in effect, add it to truck only weight and to the rear axle weight. Technically that would move a tad from the front but that is being overly technical.
What numbers alone can’t tell is how level your truck is, and how well it tows, adjusted like it was. If the front is still high or pushed around easily, add more distibution tension.
It looks like you moved 22% of the tongue weight off of the rear axle and should be able to increase that number to... maybe... 30% if you need to. I wouldn’t want to move so much that i get rear tire spin. But would like the front axle planted so as, to not reduce front tire traction under hard braking.
Adjusting trailer braking force as needed. I go big when on the highway and drop it back in town or at slow speeds.
FE
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.
Linear Mode
