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Old 06-07-2018, 08:21 PM   #673
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The late model 23s got 15in tires. That raised the coach. Most of the ASs have 15 or 16in tires. The earlier model 23s had 14in tires. Yes, they are lower. Note that 16in tires are not believed to fit 23s.

However part of the issue is the location of the sewer drain valves. If the axles drop off a steep road surface transition or into a deep hole, the drain valves can hit the ground and in significant cases, drive the toilet off it's mounting and damage the black water tank structure.

In normal highway travel, it is not an issue. However care is required to insure there is suitable clearance when entering or exiting driveways, crossing road surface irregularities from pavement drop offs, and when transitioning parking lots with unlevel and damaged pavement.

The other issue is off-road travel. Mud holes, deep ruts and similar non-level conditions need more clearance. That is what drives some to lift the trailer. Some folks also have steep driveways that result in the coach front or rear draging. Since the AS shell and frame work together as a structure, dragging a tail can damage aluminum skin. Folks with this concern also add lift blocks.

The lift blocks are 3in, I believe, but taller have been manufactured. The lift blocks do not lift the axle, only the coach. However the axle is actually higher than the fresh water tank, so raising the coach lifts the tankage and at 3in, the axle is not lower than the tankage.

Do not have a lift. Do not find we need one. Did upgrade to 15in tires. If your 2016 does not have 15in tires, make that change immediately.

Hope you enjoy your new 23. Pat
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:30 PM   #674
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Important upgrade - battery disconnect. If you store for longer than a month without power, it is likely that the parasitic loads which do not go away with the battery use/store switch will drop your battery charge to below 12.2v and the batteries will die in short order. There is a battery disconnect thread that covers the install. Note, not all disconnects are well designed. It can be done with one switch. Research well before you do it, but do it. The cheap alternative is to disconnect the battery cables.

Travel safe. Pat
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Old 06-08-2018, 11:26 AM   #675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badib-yazdi View Post
Taking delivery of a near new 2016 International 23FB on June 23. Ben reading about all the upgrades. Already had dealer put in the Easy Start for AC. Looking at the PD4655. May do that one myself. Curious about the low clearance and lift kits. What seems to be the issue - does this unit actually sit lower than others, or is it the long trailing end of the trailer drags on steep entry / exit drives?


You should be good for tires. I’m pretty sure 2016’s came with 15”. Concur with installing the PD4655, it will save your batteries, especially if you are able to have power when parked at home. To keep the closet drawers in place while mobile we use a adjustable shower rod from Walmart that we wedge between the two drawers and the opposite wall. Those two drawers are notorious for ending up on the floor while moving.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:26 PM   #676
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Thanks for the info Pat. We'll do the wheels when we need to tires. And see how it goes without the lift kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
The late model 23s got 15in tires. That raised the coach. Most of the ASs have 15 or 16in tires. The earlier model 23s had 14in tires. Yes, they are lower. Note that 16in tires are not believed to fit 23s.

However part of the issue is the location of the sewer drain valves. If the axles drop off a steep road surface transition or into a deep hole, the drain valves can hit the ground and in significant cases, drive the toilet off it's mounting and damage the black water tank structure.

In normal highway travel, it is not an issue. However care is required to insure there is suitable clearance when entering or exiting driveways, crossing road surface irregularities from pavement drop offs, and when transitioning parking lots with unlevel and damaged pavement.

The other issue is off-road travel. Mud holes, deep ruts and similar non-level conditions need more clearance. That is what drives some to lift the trailer. Some folks also have steep driveways that result in the coach front or rear draging. Since the AS shell and frame work together as a structure, dragging a tail can damage aluminum skin. Folks with this concern also add lift blocks.

The lift blocks are 3in, I believe, but taller have been manufactured. The lift blocks do not lift the axle, only the coach. However the axle is actually higher than the fresh water tank, so raising the coach lifts the tankage and at 3in, the axle is not lower than the tankage.

Do not have a lift. Do not find we need one. Did upgrade to 15in tires. If your 2016 does not have 15in tires, make that change immediately.

Hope you enjoy your new 23. Pat
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:28 PM   #677
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So the unit does not have a 'Store' switch like my 2002 did?
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:02 PM   #678
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So the unit does not have a 'Store' switch like my 2002 did?
There is a use/store switch on the 23. However, it does not disconnect the parasitic loads ..... the LPG detector and similar loads that remain when the switch is in the store position.

It does shut down the charging function and that provides a manual control to prevent over charging and boiling of the battery.

Search on "use/store" button to get more info.

Hope that helps. Pat
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:40 PM   #679
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I have the same trailer. It came with 14" wheels and tires. I upgraded to 15" Sendell Wheels and new tires. I put a lift kit on mine due to a dip entering my driveway and that solved the problem. The first thing I would do would be to check the batteries and even if they are perfect install a battery cut of switch.


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Old 06-15-2018, 09:25 AM   #680
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post
There is a use/store switch on the 23. However, it does not disconnect the parasitic loads ..... the LPG detector and similar loads that remain when the switch is in the store position.
According to the wiring diagram in my owner's manual, the connections that the use/store switch does not disconnect are:

1. Breakaway brakes (necessary, should never be disconnected)
2. Charge line from tow vehicle (not a parasitic drain)
3. Charge line from solar panel(s) (if installed, not a parasitic drain)
4. Tongue jack (not a parasitic drain)
5. LP detector (this is a parasitic drain)
6. Inverter (this is a large parasitic drain)

I handled all of my parasitic drains by running a new hot wire from the fuse block to the LP detector. Now the LP detector is turned off by the use/store switch. I installed a disconnect switch on the hot wire going to the inverter.

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Old 06-16-2018, 08:11 AM   #681
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Thanks Bobbo. I’m trying to find an easier way to keep the batteries up between trips, without taking them out and putting them on battery tenders. I’d think there would be minimal power loss if a total disconnect was in place. Where did you get the disconnect switch? Does it just sit there, or is it secured in place.
Also, could you pull the fuse or flip the breaker on the inverter and accomplish the same?
Thanks for posting.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:27 AM   #682
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Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Thanks Bobbo. I’m trying to find an easier way to keep the batteries up between trips, without taking them out and putting them on battery tenders. I’d think there would be minimal power loss if a total disconnect was in place. Where did you get the disconnect switch? Does it just sit there, or is it secured in place.
Also, could you pull the fuse or flip the breaker on the inverter and accomplish the same?
Thanks for posting.
Like everything else in life, I ordered the switch off of Amazon. Here is the one I bought: Blue Sea Switch. They also make a double switch if you want to switch the inverter and the house with just one switch. (If you choose to switch both the house and the inverter with one switch, be sure to use AT LEAST 2g wire from the battery to the switch.)

I don't really recommend switching the house except with the use/store button. Switching the house at the battery disconnects the breakaway brake, and that is a very bad idea. You can get rid of all the parasitic loads with the switch just on the inverter hot wire if you also move the LP detector hot wire to feed from the fuse box. It only takes about 2 feet of wire. They are right beside each other.

I bought a piece of Lexan (visible in the picture) and drilled 4 holes in it to mount the switch on. Then I drilled a hole in the other end of the Lexan and mounted it to the hold down bolt between the batteries with a wing nut.

To access the inverter or its fuse, you have to take off the mattress from the bed and remove a plywood cover. That gives you a very small access port. Or you could remove the plywood sheet supporting the head of the mattress by removing nearly a dozen screws and have good access. It is much easier just to put one of these disconnect switches on the hot wire going to the inverter.
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:24 AM   #683
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The sub woofer, if one is factory installed, needs an on/off switch as it is always powered on.
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:56 PM   #684
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That sucker is installed in a terrible place too. Unplugged it and located it in the compartment where the hot water heater is located. No upset on sound quality, so I think it goes into off coach storage. Simplification does have an advantage.
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:14 AM   #685
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Originally Posted by Bobbo View Post
Like everything else in life, I ordered the switch off of Amazon. Here is the one I bought: Blue Sea Switch. They also make a double switch if you want to switch the inverter and the house with just one switch. (If you choose to switch both the house and the inverter with one switch, be sure to use AT LEAST 2g wire from the battery to the switch.)

I don't really recommend switching the house except with the use/store button. Switching the house at the battery disconnects the breakaway brake, and that is a very bad idea. You can get rid of all the parasitic loads with the switch just on the inverter hot wire if you also move the LP detector hot wire to feed from the fuse box. It only takes about 2 feet of wire. They are right beside each other.

I bought a piece of Lexan (visible in the picture) and drilled 4 holes in it to mount the switch on. Then I drilled a hole in the other end of the Lexan and mounted it to the hold down bolt between the batteries with a wing nut.

To access the inverter or its fuse, you have to take off the mattress from the bed and remove a plywood cover. That gives you a very small access port. Or you could remove the plywood sheet supporting the head of the mattress by removing nearly a dozen screws and have good access. It is much easier just to put one of these disconnect switches on the hot wire going to the inverter.
Thx. I’m just on page four of the 23FB Battery disconnect switch install thread. Ordering switch and wiring (2 red and 1 black) from Amazon.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...-168120-4.html

I installed the Easy Start, and the new converter, so maybe I can handle the cutoff switch..
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:28 AM   #686
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Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Thx. I’m just on page four of the 23FB Battery disconnect switch install thread. Ordering switch and wiring (2 red and 1 black) from Amazon.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...-168120-4.html

I installed the Easy Start, and the new converter, so maybe I can handle the cutoff switch..
What is the black wire you ordered for? I can see the red wire, or two red wires if wiring in two disconnect switches, but I can't see a use for the black wire.
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