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Old 11-08-2016, 08:02 PM   #2361
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I used aircraft paint remover and it was a breeze removing the clear coat. Use the dremel brush to remove the corrosion and put clear coat on it.

Don't apply clear coat again. Just use a good polish. My tail lights, door hinges are polished aluminum. I suspect the battery boxes.
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Old 11-09-2016, 04:42 AM   #2362
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I would not be surprised if they are fully aware of the problem and hoping nobody would bring a class action lawsuit suit against them.
i suggest reading the whole thread here, and then posting.
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Old 11-09-2016, 06:39 AM   #2363
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I read of this white spider vein AKA form fill corrosion issue immediately after taking possession of my brand new shining 2016 Classic. Dealer never mentioned the potential future issue. This said, I read numerous posts about the advisability of regularly apply Corrosion-X to the rig's seams, exposed rivet head and other non clear coated metal. I have started this process and plan to continue this preventative course of action. Hopefully the Corrosion-X, the fact that I will not be traveling regularly in salt treated road AND A LITTLE LUCK will serve me well.

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Old 11-09-2016, 09:11 PM   #2364
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So the questions that begs to be asked is. What type of anode? How is it connected and how many?
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:21 AM   #2365
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I also have this issue going on with my 09'. I have been told the aluminum impregnated with some sort of clear coat. I was told these newer airstream's cannot be polished to a mirror shine like the older models. is this true? If I could simply sand down or strip the coating then I wouldn't have to worry about this filiform happening. I don't care if it takes a ton of time to do it. Its just a matter of can this coating be stripped off?
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:46 AM   #2366
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It's not an impregnated clear coat, it's simply a coating applied to the surface of the aluminum sheets. When the sheets are cut, or drilled, it exposes the underlying sheet to corrosion risk. This is true even if the sheets are Alclad (pure aluminum electronically applied to the underlying sheet.)

Aircraft manufacturers address this by painting the completed airplanes. We have to do it by use of Corrosion-X or ACF-50. It's just a fact of life.

But to answer your question directly, yes, the clearcoat can be removed. but be prepared to keep your TT polished and still use an anti-corrosion application. I can't tell you how many airplanes I've seen parked in the back of hangars that weren't washed or kept clean that were surface corroded where unpainted, and painted airplanes that were corroding from the inside where no chromate had been applied.

Spray every rivet head and every cut line, and leave the clear coat alone--that's my suggestion--and do it at least annually (more frequently if your trailer is stored outside or you're a full-timer).
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:08 PM   #2367
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Polishing/Stripping late model metal

I have had to do this several times, mostly due to the fact that new body panels come with this new style clear coat. On 69 and newer trailers, the dealers are selling new style metal segments that must be fitted to the older bodies. Obviously this goes for the preformed panels only.
The only effective way to get this very stubborn clear coat off the aluminum, is by roughing the surface first with either a scouring pad or 100grit sandpaper. Only then will conventional stripper attack the material and remove it. It takes a bit of time, and one must be careful not to rub through, but rather just dull and lightly scratch the surface coating.
After that, the metal polishes just fine, and is virtually indistinguishable from polished vintage AlClad. Picky eyes will detect a slightly more blue-ish color tone in the metal.
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Old 05-17-2017, 03:10 PM   #2368
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MARKER LIGHTS AND FILIFORM
Here is some photos https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...on-166986.html
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Old 08-06-2017, 07:56 PM   #2369
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Have spent a bit of time reading this thread, but it does seem to go on and on....
Was hoping those who have experienced this filiform, have come to understand it, so (perhaps I am being lazy, but read for 30 mins ) was hoping anyone with experience could assist with 2 or 3 simple questions.
1. Is filiform something that will cause structural issues or remain cosmetic.
2. Will it continue to spread if no longer in the salt environment.
If the answer is yes to 2...
3. Can you stop the spread and repair it. And if so, can you point me to what page (or posts) in the thread I could read.

While I am hopeful of making it look nice, I am not overly concerned with it being an older trailer that I am buying used. Apparently in its first life for several years it lived near the coast in the south east and has made a few trips back to another coast in the past several years.
This is the worst area, but noticed small amounts in other areas.

Will try posting a pic here, my first....





Many thanks.
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:16 PM   #2370
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Hi Fred,

Your posted pics could have been taken of my trailer five years ago. It was exactly the same way. I posted pics like that and others basically said, WOW.

The edges are very susceptible to moisture. All that has happened is moisture got up under the "clear coat" finish. It is an eyesore but not a performance issue for the trailer. I will also share that is why most trailers have a cover trim band at the belt line now. So, you need to get to a dealer and buy the belt trim and insert once you clean and seal the belt area. Airstream told me to use screws for the trim though you could use rivets too. Include sealant for each one then seal the top edge of the belt trim. That is an overview of how to deal with that trailer. What year is the trailer?

All Airstreams are prone to this. I have seen it on NEW ones in shows- hairline runs by rivets, etc. Yes it spreads so sealing it off is best with clear coating
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:15 PM   #2371
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ii-142283.html

http://historysafariexpress.airstrea...-and-treat-ii/

Stop it from spreading as per these links, continue that maintenance, and if you want to improve the appearance, add the beltline trim as stated on previous post. A friend had corrosion like yours and added the trim and it really improved the appearance of the trailer, if you care at all about that. Otherwise, just treat it to stop the spread, and enjoy using your airstream.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:24 PM   #2372
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2015 Sport 22FB Rust

My 2015 Sport has always been kept year-round in indoor totally enclosed warehouse, and has been maintained in excellent condition. I take it out about 4-5 times per year on relatively short mileage/short duration trips, and not in corrosive environments. It is also not stored in a corrosive environment, but rather in very clean warehouse that I pay quite a bit for every month. Before my last trip, I noticed that flash rust had appeared on the trim molding pieces of all the exterior lights and reflectors....Pretty severe rust, with pitting. Airstream corporate will do nothing, but has advised that the trim around the lights is plastic material with light chrome coating. Don't know what to do about this. I see this is a very long thread, and I know others have posted similar problems. Please let me know if you have any advice. Don't know what cost of replacements is, but may be best option. Concerned that it would probably just happen again. I am really not happy with having a rusty 2-year old trailer, and unfortunately, don't have much faith anymore in overall "Quality" of an Airstream.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:49 PM   #2373
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Thumbs up Welcome Aboard!!

^
got pics?

Had no idea that the new parts were 'plastic chrome'.

Was able to paint or polish our corroded PARTS.



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Old 10-18-2017, 11:20 PM   #2374
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:08 AM   #2375
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2015 Sport 22FB Rust

Here are some pictures. The condition is pretty much the same on all exterior lights and reflectors around top and sides of trailer. I will be checking the trailer again tomorrow to see if any signs of rust elsewhere.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:41 AM   #2376
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They don't look like plastic...

But if they are, I would R&R and paint.

Bob
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Old 10-28-2017, 01:14 PM   #2377
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Causes?

This thread is of interest to me as in a few weeks I will have for sale my 2015 Serenity 30RB. I have experienced absolutely no corrosion as described on this thread. I have carefully looked, but can find none, despite having been through some of the absolutely worst weather, to altitudes of over 9,000 feet, to the Atlantic coast on several occasions, St. Augustine, Florida, over the Rockies, temperatures from 20 to 100° F, but still have no corrosion. It is washed and parked in a heated garage for the time it is not on the road,

I am wondering if there may be some atmospheric chemicals folks are being exposed to that is he cause of the corrosion. Maybe some sort of survey regarding the different exposures trailers go through would help to solve this question.
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Old 10-30-2017, 10:19 AM   #2378
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Light trim pitting and discolouration

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLSport View Post
My 2015 Sport has always been kept year-round in indoor totally enclosed warehouse, and has been maintained in excellent condition. I take it out about 4-5 times per year on relatively short mileage/short duration trips, and not in corrosive environments. It is also not stored in a corrosive environment, but rather in very clean warehouse that I pay quite a bit for every month. Before my last trip, I noticed that flash rust had appeared on the trim molding pieces of all the exterior lights and reflectors....Pretty severe rust, with pitting. Airstream corporate will do nothing, but has advised that the trim around the lights is plastic material with light chrome coating. ... .
I previously posted in this thread about my similar issue. Every one of the "bezels" (as Airstream calls them) around my market lights, curb side lights (door and the round one) and the four oval ones around my rear brake/turn lights) started to pit within a month or two of taking delivery of my 2016 FC 25. It was not as severe as yours though and I posted pics. I took the position that is was not corrosion (outside the warranty) and was a material defect under warranty, simply because this should not occur under nearly any circumstance in a couple of months (especially since the dealer applied the "Walbernize" wax finish coating as part of the sale). When I reported it to the service department the service fellow said something like "Airstream had that problem a year or two ago and thought they had it fixed but I guess not." They eventually agreed and replaced everything under warranty. It took about a year though including a very long wait for parts. I keep all the trim carefully waxed now. Also, every time I wash the unit I use a "wash & wax" product in the wash bucket. I've never seen any filiform corrosion though on my trailer and keep a close eye out for it.
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Old 10-30-2017, 12:36 PM   #2379
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Pure curiosity - anyone here with good photoshop skills? Could you attempt to show us an AS fully engulfed in filliform corrosion? I'm serious - I'd be interested to see it....

One COULD argue - it's not as ugly as rust, and even has a certain aesthetic to it - like a Mandelbrot fractal....

I'm not saying I'd go for that look - but honestly, it would be interesting to see one totally covered in it. You might like it!

(Puts on flame retardant overalls and backs away slowly...)
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:14 AM   #2380
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I own a 2010 28' Flying Cloud with a rear bed room. It is stored in an open air but covered unit. Fortunately, I only experienced a small spot of filiform corrosion on a forward top running light and another near an edge on a side panel. The running light was half full of water when it was replaced. I treated the spots with Boeshield T9 and sealed them with acrylic.

Some of the skin corrosion issues may be caused by poor material handling during assembly and installation of exterior fixtures. Any deep scratch of the film protecting the aluminum skin can lead corrosion. If that happens during assembly it would constitute a manufacturing defect.

I would also check for metal corrosion around your battery box, steps, frame members at the receiver hitch and spare tire rack. The box frames are not painted inside and will readily rust if not treated with T-9 or equivalent products.


Good luck! [emoji4]
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