Without the help and inspiration of the Vintage Trailer Academy, I am don't want to imagine where we would be at this point.
Our goal is to finish it this year and take it to the next VTA in '15
When we bought the Caravel it was in very good condition and we used it for a number of adventures. Few issues like mold in the water tank, leaks and a rotten floor...could be worse as we were so stoked to own a Caravel
Here were are
Todate:
Shell off
Frame sandblasted and painted with POR 15
Two 30 gal tanks mounted under the floor on either side of the axle
( no black water tank as we are going to use a compostable toilet )
3/4 marine ply with epoxy both sides
Stainless wheel wells
Axle is near new
New tail light lenses
All new weather stripping and hardware on the windows
Shell is back on and bolted down
Fantastic Fan in place
Now the electrical which to me is a very daunting task
Keep up the picture posting! At the very least -I- will be following it closely! I bring home my new-to-us '65 Caravel in three weeks.
Where did the two tanks come from?
The tanks came from Plastic Mart and they buy them from Ronco in Tustin CA. If you buy tanks directly from Ronco they are more expensive. I considered custom tanks but the cost 4 x as much. So it became a work around. The tanks are 8" deep and we put galvanized removable box under them. I bought the tanks w/o holes until we finalized the interior design. I took the tanks to Ronco and they spun the new fittings on ( no charge)
We are trying to stay away from as much RV equipment as possible just because of the overall quality and lean more towards marine products. We built a spare tire rack up forward under the frame as well.
On our list, when we make new belly pans they will be removable. Zeus fittings or something similar.
Pic of the old belly pan, hopefully it will help as a template. We are going to use 20-24 for pan stock rather than the thinner original stock
Pic of the frame before the tanks
The wheels are stock AS wheels only powder coated in a metallic grey and the hubcaps are the pointed ones that VTS sells. Personally I think the color of the wheels is really important to the overall appearance. I'm always amazed of all the work that goes into the restoration of an AS the wheels are ignored. At first I thought of red or an aqua color but then I realized it's just a bit to cliche for my taste
Yes, both fresh and grey tanks are the same size. The compostable toilet will solve the issue not having a black tank. This is not the cheapest way to go but we are only going to build this Caravel once. I suppose if the compostable toilet is a disaster we can put a standard toilet in with a black tank.
Also we are putting an external removable shower head on the side.
I am planning to replace the floor and repair the frame on my 67 Caravel. I have a couple of questions. You say you sandblasted and painted the frame. No mention of any repairs or additions. Is the picture of the frame shown in post #4 the original unmodified (except for paint) frame and if so do you have any more picture of the frame that include the rear and front sections. If you do would you post a few. Thanks.
I am also considering going with a compostable toilet. I have looked at two marine versions (the brand names escape me at the moment) but am not sure whether either would fit. Have you made a selection and if so what model. Are you planning to install it at the same location, i.e. on the toilet riser, or are you planning to modify the fiberglass rear bathroom pan.
The tank installations and frame look great and I like the idea of making the belly pan easier to remove. Going to google Zeus fittings to see what that's all about. Hope you'll continue to keep us updated on your restoration efforts
Yep pretty pricey. I'm thinking stainless sheet metal screws and silicone to seal along aluminum to aluminum seams and rivenuts (sp) and stainless machine screws on frame members --- or frankly just go original with rivets. I am hoping to do a good enough job on replacing the floor and sealing everything that I won't ever need to touch the belly pan again. That of course would be my preference.
1966 17' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Las Cruces
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 577
Make sure the belly pan is secure but don't seal it so tight that it can't breathe. If water gets in, you want it to be able to get out. Tight enough to keep mice and varmints at bay, loose enough to breathe.
__________________
1966 Airstream Caravel
2006 Toyota Tacoma
1966 17' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Las Cruces
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 577
One more thought: the rivets are likely the way to go. When you consider that the belly pans usually stay intact for 25+ years barring accidents, rivets work well. I plan to use the large headed rivets from VTS with access panels planned in for those areas where there is the most possibility you will need to do some work (primarily the back plumbing area). It is quick and easy to drill out a few rivets to drop the access panel, then rivet it back up when you are through.
As for the frame. you will only know what you need to do when the belly pan is off and the floor is out. The most likely repairs are the cross members and outriggers where the floor bolts go through, especially in the rear. The main frame is heavy enough gauge that it is less likely to be needing welding repair.
__________________
1966 Airstream Caravel
2006 Toyota Tacoma
All good points. With regard to access panels in the belly pan, one idea I've considered is to use plastic marine deck plates. They are water tight and easy to open and close. I installed one in my fresh water tank for a cleanout. I used a six inch one for the tank. I have seen them as large as 8 inches in diameter and there may be larger ones.
With regard to the frame, I have an unusual frame problem. From what I can see, the frame under the trailer seems to be in pretty good shape, but your right until I remove the belly pan I can't be sure. More problematic however I have discovered that the exposed portion of the tongue and the section of the tongue immediately under the front end of the trailer have significant corrosion. The trailer has been unused for several years and parked at my house which is near a marine shoreline. Apparently, the marine air contains enough salt that the rainwater leaking into the unpainted interior of the tongue essentially rotted the steel from the inside allowing it to go unnoticed. The tongue was formed from 3" steel channel with a 3" steel plate welded to the open side of the channel to form a box. The steel plate was spot welded which left a gap for water to drain to the unpainted inside. I discovered the problem when I tried to remove some scale from the exterior of the tongue and the screw driver I was using went completely through to the center. Peeled back the belly pan at the front of the trailer and discovered that the tongue corrosion extended about two feet under the trailer. The corrosion is serious enough that I would not want to tow the trailer any significant distance.
Some of the more modern boat parts may work for an aluminum trailer but I do not believe that the access ports that you mentioned are some of them. Plastic even more modern composite plastics do not hold up as well when you consider the belly pan area and that kick up rocks and the occasional unseen high rock will not bend most plastics but will break or crack them! Some pictures would help illustrate the frame issues that you have found all of which can be repaired.
You sound like you have a plan and that makes working on the airstream trailers go much easier I have been enjoying working on ours but with grandchildren, work, weather and money it is slow going. We do like reading threads of others and seeing the pictures of what they have found and how they have tackled their issues (airstream related) please keep us posted and we will do likewise.
Cliff
Yes I said that! Or did I?
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
1966 17' Caravel
Currently Looking...
Las Cruces
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 577
The main frame problem sounds like a fabrication/welding problem which is best approached with the shell off if under the trailer is a problem. If it is pretty much in the tongue area, you might be able to leave the shell on. Once you can get it to the point where you can look, poke, and prod searching for damage, you can tell what you need to do. Recall that work expands to fill the time and money available when restoring anything. Then the work exceeds the time and money available.
Cliff is right about the plastic panels. Stay with aluminum and aluminum rivets to cut down corrosion.
__________________
1966 Airstream Caravel
2006 Toyota Tacoma
I'm only an amateur plannisher, but I think that if you want a really durable and easy to banana, belly, softer and thicker .040 5052 might work easier than .0?? 2024. Some of these aircraft and professional restorers will have more knowledgeable input tho. Maybe you'll restore your bananas.
Using Dzus fits in areas that may need service and access is definitely a great idea. Our 24hr Daytona Mazda was snapped together with Dzus fits and held up all day at 200mph...
Marine components are the way to go. I have a marine heater in my GT and love it. looks cool too.
Here is what we have done as of 12/26
All of the wiring has been "stubbed out" to our plans, including solar panels.
We used all marine wiring and connectors. First layer of Prodex has been installed.
Now the plumbing begins then the biggest challenge is the belly pan. I bought a 10ft sheet of 025 5054 at the local aluminum store and we still have the old belly pan for some sort of a template, but with belly tanks and an under the frame spare tire rack not much is the same.
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