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Bobbo · 05-01-2018, 08:03 PM

I have finally found the answer to a recurrent problem.

On our very first RV trip with our new Airstream (bought new from the dealer), the entrance door quit shutting all the way. It would latch closed, but it stuck about 1/4" out from the trailer's side, and the deadbolt would not engage. We managed to finish the trip, and took it to the dealer. It took the dealer a couple of months, with calls to Airstream, to pronounce it fixed. When I picked it up, I was told they had to "re-rivet the door."

In examining the repair, I noticed that the stud sticking out from the doorframe that the door latch grabs was screwed out about 1/16". I screwed it back in tight to the doorframe, and the door wouldn't latch. I screwed it out about 1/16", and the door latched just fine. I decided that, at some point, I would buy another washer and put on there so I could tighten down that stud.

I didn't get around to doing that, and today, about 6 months later, the door stopped latching again. I examined the latch and saw that the rivets holding the stud's nut to the doorframe had sheared off. The stud was hanging fairly loose.

I got my pop-rivet gun and re-riveted the nut to the door frame, fixing the door latch (for now). Knowing, now, that the stud being loose meant that the force of closing the door and holding it closed was all on those two rivets, I knew that they would shear off again in the near future. I took the door stud to the hardware store and bought two rubber washers that would fit over the threads. I put them on there, and used my ratchet to really tighten the stud into its nut, so the stud/nut through the doorframe is holding the pressure, not the pop-rivets. I doubt seriously that the door latch will fail again.

**moosetags** · 05-01-2018, 08:20 PM

That sounds like a great fix. Congratulations on figuring it out and coming up with resolution. This is great information to share here on the Forums. That's what this place is all about.

Brian

SteveSueMac · 05-02-2018, 04:41 AM

Great! Any pics to share?

SpinWhite · 05-02-2018, 06:30 AM

Why didn't you use stainless steel, steel or aluminum washers? Won't the "rubber" washers deteriorate in time? Pictures would help.

Bobbo · 05-02-2018, 06:39 AM

I didn't take any pics while it was broken, but here is one after it was fixed. The second picture shows the black ring under the stud's washer that is the compressed rubber washer. It holds the stud out far enough for the door to close even with the stud solidly tightened up to the doorframe. The two rivets you see, above and below the stud, were completely gone, and I could move the stud side to side and top to bottom. It was not rigid.

I bought the rubber because all the hardware store had was steel washers and I didn't want to use dissimilar metals. I am going to keep my eye out for an aluminum washer and will get one if I can find it.

SteveSueMac · 05-02-2018, 06:54 AM

Great fix - thanks for sharing. The rubber washer seems perfect.

Octarine · 05-02-2018, 09:58 AM

Thank you so much for taking the time to post. I have been having similar issues with my door as well (Classic 2018 33). Checked a variety of things from leveling to lubing and still the latch would not fully engage without a good hard slam (or two or three!) when closing it from the inside; closing it from the outside still required a firm slam, but not repeatedly. Did you experience the latch issue when closing the door from both sides?

davidz71 · 05-02-2018, 11:45 AM

Another option might be a fiber washer. I've seen some that have been pretty tough.

kjbishop2 · 05-02-2018, 12:40 PM

Had exact same issue on 2017 Flying Cloud - thanks for the heads up on the type of the washer... I used a 1/16" steel and really tightened the latch peg to the frame/bracket. Problem solved. Will look to replace shortly with either rubber or fiber if I cannot get an aluminum.

HDsteel · 05-02-2018, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Octarine

Thank you so much for taking the time to post. I have been having similar issues with my door as well (Classic 2018 33). Checked a variety of things from leveling to lubing and still the latch would not fully engage without a good hard slam (or two or three!) when closing it from the inside; closing it from the outside still required a firm slam, but not repeatedly. Did you experience the latch issue when closing the door from both sides?

I have the exact issue with my 2018 Globetrotter, to engage the deadbolt i have to push the door shut to engage firmly. So firmly my wife cannot deadbolt
the door. From the inside it takes a very firm pull to shut, most of the time I just pull the door closed and not latched.

DBinSD · 05-02-2018, 01:36 PM

Excellent “McGiver” fix!
Thanks for sharing.

dznf0g · 05-02-2018, 01:51 PM

Stainless steel washer will be fine. Aluminum and stainless are pretty close on the scale. I have yet to have any stainless fastener, etc react after 11 years. I have made a practice of replacing all steel with stainless as I do jobs.

MAHofer · 05-02-2018, 03:15 PM

If you pm me the dimensions of the aluminum washer you want/need I will be happy to make it for you and send it to the address you supply.
M

stujan · 05-02-2018, 06:48 PM

I went out to look at my 2018 FC and AS has a metal (steel or stainless steel) washer behind the door stud. So I guess AS was listening and added this. To our unit

Bobbo · 05-02-2018, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Octarine

Did you experience the latch issue when closing the door from both sides?

The door would not close all the way regardless of where I was or how hard I slammed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAHofer

If you pm me the dimensions of the aluminum washer you want/need I will be happy to make it for you and send it to the address you supply.
M

I will go out tomorrow and measure it. Thanks for the offer. I will PM you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stujan

I went out to look at my 2018 FC and AS has a metal (steel or stainless steel) washer behind the door stud. So I guess AS was listening and added this. To our unit

If you look at my second picture, that wide piece of metal pressing against the rubber washer is an aluminum washer. It is just not quite thick enough.

Shutterbug · 05-02-2018, 10:51 PM

Why not use a lock washer so it won't come loose?

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-02-2018, 11:27 PM

Hi, this is a fairly common problem with Airstreams; I added a washer to my door striker about ten years ago.

cwf · 05-03-2018, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shutterbug

Why not use a lock washer so it won't come loose?

Good thinking... however, lockwashers chew into the aluminum frame and will make any further adjustment difficult. That “bolt” actually can move as the trailer frame matures, gasket compression needs increase pressure, frame flex... etc. the idea is you are not @locke “ into one position...without major structural work...

JCWDCW · 05-03-2018, 08:48 AM

I think you mis-read the reason for the rivets. They just hold the backing plate in place behind the Jam. The stud can be re-positioned by loosening it and then tightening in the new position in order to get the door to close tightly. The stud can move an eight of an inch or so in the hole in the backing plate. One of our member's rivets sheared off and when he removed the stud, the plate fell into the frame of the door. I guess you were luck you did't fully remove the stud.
JCW

Bobbo · 05-03-2018, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCWDCW

I think you mis-read the reason for the rivets. They just hold the backing plate in place behind the Jam. The stud can be re-positioned by loosening it and then tightening in the new position in order to get the door to close tightly. The stud can move an eight of an inch or so in the hole in the backing plate. One of our member's rivets sheared off and when he removed the stud, the plate fell into the frame of the door. I guess you were luck you did't fully remove the stud.
JCW

No. I understood the use of the rivets. My point was that the stud was not screwed tight up to the doorframe. It was about 1/16" out (loosely turning with finger pressure) because that was the only way the door would latch properly. My point was that with that stud so loose, the rivets were all that was taking the force. My whole point was to get the stud tight up to the doorframe so IT would take the pressure and the rivets would not. With the rivets sheared, the stud would move about 1/2" side to side and sag downward that much because the backing plate was moving about inside of the doorframe.