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m.hony · 01-28-2014, 05:55 AM

That common key will also work on anyone else's RV.
We traded in a 2009 Forest River Wildwood 28RLSS on our Airstream.
It had the same keys for the storage compartments.

m.hony · 01-28-2014, 05:56 AM

All those problems even after you watched it being built?
Wow!

switz · 01-28-2014, 09:15 AM

Our 2013 25FB International Serenity had the usual 751 key for the water access door and a different keying pattern on the same blank for the outside access hatch under the bed. This provided a token of security. On this forum, folks have stated they climbed through the outside access hatch (not me in my shape or agility) and lifted up on the mattress and got into the coach to get their keys.

Thus the only minimalist security would be a latch with a spring clip to keep the mattress from being easily lifted.

There are four outside access hatches on our new trailer. The rear one gains access only to a totally enclosed box below the night stand and the heads of the two twin beds. The two (one on each side) under the twin mattresses could provide access like above. The small side hatch forward would require lifting the bench seat and seat springs of the forward seat of the dinette.

This trailer has the new all plastic locks design for the external access hatches that will be a great replacement parts sales provider for Airstream and the dealers.

The thin wall of solid wood creating the outside wall for the pocket door (other side of the door is the shower area) is bowed inwards in the middle, thus rubbing the door when one tries to slide it. Perhaps the wood was not completely cured and sitting outside unheated in the sub-freezing temperatures at Jackson Center for over a week may have caused this issue. Now that the unit is in the desert with even less humidity, it could change shape again.

The other pocket door has the trim broken away from the wall on the bathroom side with the nails exposed (other side is by fridge) so the wall piece rubs on the door. This could be a simple carpentry repair.

The dented ceiling material issue may require a vinyl panel be removed and replaced and one would like the factory to do the work to make the job look original rather then look like I tried to fix it.

The outside aluminum lower door hinge needs to be replaced due to very deep gouges, a kitchen door was chipped and it should be replaced, and a chrome plastic trim piece has buckled out (this was pointed out at the factory before I left) between the wheel well and the lower center awning support attachment location. The stove will have to be removed to paint the scratched areas on both sides at the front.

A rewash today that is perhaps more more than thorough will get the road salts off the nooks and crannies.

So far there is nothing that precludes using the trailer as just the wife and I will be in it and the lack of operational pocket doors is not that much of an issue after I get the privacy curtain installed beside the toilet.... We can use styrofoam wedges to secure the pocket doors to prevent rubbing while moving.

I am thankful no rocks hit the side of the trailer or windows.

While at the dealership yesterday, along side was a 62 vintage Airstream about 26' long that was polished. Then I looked at the side of ours and realized there was no way I could ever "polish" that huge billboard!

HeadWest · 01-28-2014, 09:20 AM

I'm sorry to hear of the problems. Hopefully this can all be sorted out correctly and to your satisfaction.

casarodante · 01-28-2014, 12:31 PM

Sorry about the issues but we know where you have been. We got ours about a year ago off a showroom floor.

On our trip home we lost a 2" half moon portion of the front edge of our kitchen countertop. It appears it had been glued back on? Perhaps by the dealer or transporter. We find out the lower kitchen cabinets only had one screw holding them to the outside wall. They move away from the wall and screwed up the counter.

We are very dismayed when you spend the amount of money that we do for these trailers that they are not in better shape. Airstream also seems to be using very cheap materials for latches and other important pieces.

I attached our first punchlist when we took it in for service.

HeadWest · 01-28-2014, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casarodante

Sorry about the issues but we know where you have been. We got ours about a year ago off a showroom floor.

On our trip home we lost a 2" half moon portion of the front edge of our kitchen countertop. It appears it had been glued back on? Perhaps by the dealer or transporter. We find out the lower kitchen cabinets only had one screw holding them to the outside wall. They move away from the wall and screwed up the counter.

We are very dismayed when you spend the amount of money that we do for these trailers that they are not in better shape. Airstream also seems to be using very cheap materials for latches and other important pieces.

I attached our first punchlist when we took it in for service.

How did things turn out with your punch list items? Were you happy with the repairs and getting these items fixed?

dkottum · 01-28-2014, 02:07 PM

We had no punch list to take back to the dealer, the Airstream was very well assembled.

But I did go through the entire trailer to adjust and lube latches and locks, used the Airstream entrance door adjustment video (crude but effective) to get a nicely operating door, check tightness of fasteners and plumbing fittings, and vacuum out the voids. Stuff a dealer probably should do.

I suspect that first trip from factory to dealer shakes things up and takes any tension out component assembly at the factory. Some of this can be expected by the nature of the product and process, but hopefully fixed before the customer sees them.

Like many have claimed, get the assembly bugs out and things get much better as we enjoy the travel, adventures and memories our trailers give us.

casarodante · 01-28-2014, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadWest

How did things turn out with your punch list items? Were you happy with the repairs and getting these items fixed?

I was very happy with the dealer (Toscanos) that fixed the items. They were not the selling dealer.

We still have a few issues. Some I fixed myself (sliding doors).

As a previous poster said it truly is all about the shaking out. We have had it a year now and feel confident about things staying together.

My wife stated that our '92 didn't have many problems. I reminded her that my parents had it for almost 10 years before we did so my dad had plenty of time to get things right.

switz · 02-24-2014, 06:51 PM

Took our 2014 Classic model 30 off the dealership lot today. It had been there since 27 January. The batteries were allowed to run down due to the CO detector, so they were recharged. All the punch list items will be addressed later at another facility. They did fill the water tank and both propane tanks, so we may try a barebones overnight this weekend to see what else needs attention.

I towed it the 19 miles home with just a straight hitch. The truck and trailer were level due to the level ride air suspension.

But the unit could wiggle some.

Tomorrow is ProPride installation day for me. That will definitely cure the wiggles.

If I get that accomplished, then the next day is 16" Michelin tires install day for me as they are in my storage unit mounted with the Dill TPMS and ready to go with the Centramatic wheel balancers.

The following day will be scales day using my scales to get a base weight and tongue weight.

StreamNTyme · 02-24-2014, 08:30 PM

Nice, very nice. You will have many great years traveling in your new Airstream.
Safe Travels!

time2play · 02-24-2014, 10:34 PM

Happy Travels! We love our Airstream. I know you're going to totally enjoy the 30' Classic.

switz · 02-26-2014, 07:13 AM

Well, yesterday turned into the 16" Michelin tire & SenDel wheel with Dill TPMS install day as the trailer had to be at it's new height before starting the ProPride hitch installation. I also installed the Centramatic wheel balancers and used new McGard lug nuts with one special keyed locking nut on each wheel. I was worn out by the time I finished as I loaded five tires and wheels into the truck at the storage unit and unloaded them at the trailer. After swapping the tires out, I then loaded the five OEM wheels and Marathons at the trailer and unloaded them at the storage unit.

So, I will be selling the five Marathon tires mounted on the four Airstream Classic factory aluminum wheels and one steel spare wheel along with the factory lug nuts. Four of the tires have about 2,000 miles on them as the trailer was towed from Jackson Center, Ohio to Mesa, Arizona while the spare has only been hand rolled around to the truck to go to the storage unit.

The new Magnum MSH series hybrid converter/inverter has a 120Vac wiring terminal strip that only supports one hot leg and one neutral leg going into the box and the same coming out of the box. With the Airstream 50 amp service option, there are two hot legs and one neutral that have to go into the box and out to the circuit breaker panel. Thus we will have to go with the Magnum MS 2812 as it has the necessary connections for three wires in both directions.

Today is ProPride install day.

**GCinSC2** · 02-26-2014, 02:45 PM

switz,

Could you check two things on the Dill TPMS please?

1. Did you get the new monitor? Can be identified by checking the back, new monitor has 2 covers for the "chips" old one only has 1 cover.

2. Are your TPMS sensor stem "nuts" marked A, B, C, D?

I just checked my new system part number 1504-416 and it has the new monitor (manual is for the 1506-08&10) but the nuts are not marked A, B, C, D so you cannot index them to a tire location based on the letter on the nut. I think you could reduce the air pressure on 3 tires -2, -4, -6 and drive just long enough for the transmitters to activate and identify the wheel positions. Then re-position chips to match and restore normal air pressure. I'll be firing mine up this weekend.

acstokes · 02-26-2014, 03:10 PM

I'm not Switz, but I just bought and installed the Dill 1504-453 (6 sensors) last week along w/Sendels & 16" Michelins. My sensor stems were labeled A-F and the monitor had 2 covers for the chips....one cover on each end. The easiest method is to keep track of which letter sensor you put in which tire and mount the wheels on the TT accordingly. You can re-position the chips in the monitor if necessary or they get mixed up.

**GCinSC2** · 02-26-2014, 04:17 PM

Fred,

I'm on my 2nd Dill TPMS due to converting to 16's. My old stems were marked ABCD, the new ones are not. Called Dill already and asked how do you match wheel position to display. Long pause.............. They also have a numeric code on the sensor body that matches the chip but once the tire is mounted, can's see it anymore.

2 covers = new display and you got 6 monitors so that mandates the new display also.

Just curious how switz' new system was setup.

Thanks,

Gary

switz · 02-26-2014, 10:22 PM

No one at the tire shop recorded the letter on the senders and which tire they were in. I went back and they broke the tires down and put the letter on each tire. I used permanent marker to write the letter on the inside of the wheel in multiple locations. I then put the letters in the appropriate location on the display which has the two covers. So the tires, wheels with the Dill TPMS and Centramatics are on. Lookin' Good!

Unfortunately, I hit a major snag on the PPP install today and can't unhitch until some parts come in (⅜" filler plates for the jacks to go between the frame and the edges of the "u" channel in the PPP jack base. I will also have to drill opposing corner holes on the curb side jack for the u-bolt to get the jack in the proper location.

Tomorrow, I will take the portable band saw and trim edges off the jack bases when at 26" from the center of the hitch ball so I can open the battery box lid and be able to lower the propane tank cover down to the frame. I will also, get some black rust-oleum spray paint for the raw edges I will generate on the jack bases.

Hopefully the parts come in Friday and I can get the hitch job done that afternoon. I have lots of small accessories to install while waiting for the hitch parts.

acstokes · 02-27-2014, 05:19 AM

Gary,

Quote:

Called Dill already and asked how do you match wheel position to display. Long pause..............

It helps to read the manual.

**GCinSC2** · 02-27-2014, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acstokes

Gary, It helps to read the manual.

I'm on my second Dill TPMS, first was marked on stems, no problems at all. Second set not marked on stems.

I don't have the manual right now but their Tech Support guy didn't have an answer why they were not marked ABCD

switz · 03-05-2014, 09:38 PM

Hitch was successfully installed and we are running the jacks up six inches from the base plates per Sean's suggestion. We took a a test run Tuesday and spent the night at a nearby RV area (about 90 miles one way).

Once we got on site, we started testing and doing some work on the unit. I was waxing the shower with the special polish and a hole just appeared in the shower wall (in this area the gel coat covered a hole...)

I then went outside and saw water dripping from the belly through the LED light above the sewer pipes. I went inside and could see water under the water heater, but no leaking pipes. No water was visible from outside observation.

We fired up the furnace in the morning and the heat register in the bath area was barely moving air. I am concerned the 3" duct is collapsed under the kitchen sink/microwave/oven cabinet. It looked like the intestines of a gutted animal around the furnace just before the cabinet was installed.

We will need to caulk around the shower door better than the current effort from the factory.

So more work next week.

rperrym · 03-06-2014, 07:39 AM

Did the water come from the shower? This sounds like our new trailer we took delivery on in Sept. First trip out the shower poured water out on the floor. The threshold for the shower door was installed backwards. The lip was to the inside, so water ran down the door and poured out. The bathroom door would not stay closed as there is a gap between the door and the latch wall. The walls in the bathroom did not fit and had gaps in them, and all screws were exposed instead of having the white caps over them. The shower caulking looks terrible. Can not believe it ever left the factory that way, and the main reason we are taking it back in April. Also had a leak first night it rained.

Rick