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dbmarshall · 10-30-2002, 06:51 PM

Hi All,

I have a few questions with regards to storing/using an A/S at home:

1) I don't have the room in my driveway to park/store it. As such, was going to make a "parking space/port" for it on crushed gravel next to my home. Shouldn't that be fine? Anything I'm not thinking of? I have a power outlet right there. I could eventually build a car port, but for now it would be uncovered.

2) To help justify the purchase, I am going to use it as an office and an occasional overflow guestroom. Has anybody ever extended a telephone jack from their house and used it for DSL in their A/S? If so, how?

3) What about anchoring it to the ground. Is the weight of the unit enough, or is some kind of anchoring/locking system not a bad idea (Trade Wind or Overlander is what I'm considering). We live in South Florida - hurricanes/tornados happen. What do others do during these times? Garaging it is not an option at this time.

Any advice/guidance is greatly appreciated.

Brgds,
David

pjtaia · 10-30-2002, 08:07 PM

So far I think you are on the right track. I would, however, add a canopy, such as they sell at Sams or Costco or as sold to swap meet venders. I recently bought and installed a 10' x 20' for my tow vehicle (van/class B motorhome) and a 12' x 30' for my Overlander. In SoCal protection from the sun is essential. I assume it is in Florida as well.

You might want to add a water supply and, if possible, a sewer connection. This will add a level of convenience.

Sorry, I can't help regarding telephone connections or hurricanes, but trailers (on tires) are great in earthquakes!

shelocta · 10-30-2002, 09:30 PM

David;
It bought my 310 from a fellow that lived on the east coast of Florida. The only time he used it in the last five years was to run inland to avoid a hurricane. Perhaps making a quick getaway is something to consider.
Cheers
Bill

thenewkid64 · 10-31-2002, 04:52 AM

David,

I know at the winter parks like travelers rest and land yacht harbor most of the units are anchored down. They are parked on a concrete pad that has eye bolts sunk in the concrete and then they wue chain and turnbuckles to keep the units land bound. I have my MH next to the house without anchors, but it weighs a bit more than your trailer. In my opinion it would be an issue of frequencey of use. As we live in florida, and can use our units year round, I would not want the hassle of having to untie it each time I use it.

As to the DSL line you just need to run the phone line out, install the DSL modem and away you go surfing!

As to power/water/sewer/cable/phone: Power should be a 30 Amp outlet so you can use all of the features of your new office/guest room, like the AC. it is no harder than installing a 20 amp outlet, just costs a few extra $$. Water, cable, phone, and sewer are personal preference. I have water, power and cable for mine sewer, would be nice, but it would be a very costly add on as I am parked as far from the sewer line as I can get an still be on my property.

It sounds like you have a good plan, and there is an additional benifit as well. If you have power, water and a place to park an additional unit, you can offer friends courtesty parking to come visit for a few days and not even have to make up your guest room!

airstreamcaravel · 10-31-2002, 06:58 AM

Where (and if) you can park you camper in your yard is a matter of city/village code. Be careful! Check out this recent thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ght=the+letter

Have fun!

DMC

Oh and I have DSL and Phone running to my trailer ... no problem.

dbmarshall · 10-31-2002, 05:48 PM

Thxs for the input.

I think I am okay on the ordinance as long as there is a gate or something in front of the vehicle - good idea to verify, though. At least that's what others are doing with RV's & boats.

BTW what is the height of these things? How high must a canopy be for a Tradewind or Overlander 10 - FT???

Also, for those that are doing phone & DSL - did you just run it through the window?

Thxs,
David

airstreamcaravel · 10-31-2002, 06:11 PM

I ran my phone line up through my "one stop service center"
on the road side. This is where my city water and 110v hook up are located.

Check your code carefully. My village only allows storage of RV's
in designated areas on my lot. What a PIA!

DMC

pjtaia · 10-31-2002, 11:32 PM

Regarding heights: The canopies I looked at were offered in 6'-6" high legs, 8'-0" legs, or 10'-0" legs, then either a steep pitch roof or a shallow pitch roof. For my 1975 Overlander I used the 8'-0" legs with the steep pitch, and the canopy is 12'-0" wide; I have more than enough height. I found that I could either have used a shallow pitch or I could have kept the steep pitch and cut the legs down to 7'-6".

I was also in a tight side yard, with the canopy tucked up under the eaves. Look at your restraints and consider all options. This is why I went with a custon "swap-meet" type canopy in lieu of the Costco standard kit.

Good luck! You are on the right track!

dbmarshall · 11-01-2002, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by pjtaia
This is why I went with a custon "swap-meet" type canopy in lieu of the Costco standard kit.

Sorry to be ignorant, but what's a "swap meet" type? Also, are they priced about the same $150 - $200 or less???

Thxs,
David

dbmarshall · 11-01-2002, 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by thenewkid64
Power should be a 30 Amp outlet so you can use all of the features of your new office/guest room, like the AC. it is no harder than installing a 20 amp outlet, just costs a few extra $$.

I noticed 30 Amp outlets at Home Depot for dryers - will that do? Then put a wather proof cover over it???

thenewkid64 · 11-01-2002, 05:50 AM

A dryer outlet is close....

Near the dryer outlets there should be some labeled for 30 AMP RV use. Dryers are 50 amp and 2 phase so the rating is diffrent. If you install this in a conduit box there is a flip up cover in the outdoor outlet cover area that will allow you to plug in and keep the outlet covered. All told these two items should cost less than $25.00. Or you can go all out and get the complete box outlet and cover in some stores for about 30 bucks. It will look just like the one at most campgrounds and has a Duck? embossed on the cover. Remember to install the proper gauge wire for the distance and amperage, as well as a 30 amp breaker. There is nothing like knowing that the AC is always available in the RV even when it is parked at home!

pjtaia · 11-01-2002, 06:26 AM

I say swap meet type canopy because the place I bought mine sells primarily to swap meet vendors. Try www.canopykits.com to see where I bought mine. For a local place, try a Yahoo yellow pages search for canopy or tarpaulin.

Then talk to them about sizes. Basically there is the frame in 3/4, 1, and 1 3/8 diameters (I used the 3/4"); These slip together very easily. Then you add a tarp, attaching the tart to the frame with ball bungees. My 12'x20' was about $150 and the 12'x30' was $250. These prices included concrete block "feet" for the legs plus additional tarps for the ends which I attach with spring clamps.

The kits that you buy at Costco are generally not tall enough for the Airstream unless you add to the legs and they usually have only one size, usually 12'x20'. For my needs I liked the range of sizes available from the "custom" canopy seller.

Good luck!