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Old 11-03-2006, 08:51 AM   #21
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Safari Rock Guard

Just bought a '72 Safari yesterday and sadly it doesn't have the rock guard. This lexan solution looks great, all I need is a frame. Does anyone out there have one they would be willing to give up?? If so, please PM with info.

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:44 AM   #22
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What?? tinbenders can't bend aluminum??
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:39 PM   #23
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Rock Guard Frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by doorgunner
What?? tinbenders can't bend aluminum??
Yeah, this bender can but I thought for once I would make it just a little easier on myself since I have higher priority items to take care of on my new project. Interior panels to pull and magic to work on a misaligned entry door before it rains again.
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Old 11-04-2006, 06:47 AM   #24
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tinbender-I would bet there are plenty of em around-most are afraid to use em cause they are so flexible-[the original plastic was moulded and added strenght to the frame]-But it appears that all is well if you use 1/4" lexan-at least mine is traveling well--try a new post requesting one-I'll bet someone has one for you--good luck----jim
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:20 AM   #25
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tube frame

Tinbender- just having fun- another thought, Most of the window frames on the small experimental airplanes are formed with 3/8" .032 6061T6 Alu. Some anodized some not.Good for 130 mph.Will send a few images if you request em. Nothin beats a pair of cheap sunglasses! Tim
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Old 11-04-2006, 02:16 PM   #26
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Lexan cracks, tube framing

Just some info for others to copy or whatever. Ideas ideas ideas
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Old 11-04-2006, 02:42 PM   #27
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Wow, thanks for the tips. I think I'll try and tackle this one over the winter, have nice new cover by spring.
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:48 PM   #28
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Smile Re-built Rock Guard

While this is an older thread, I am reviving it to post some pics of my rock guard rebuild--with much thanks to Jim for showing that it could be done! Judging from his photos, my workmanship is not to Jim's standards but I was in a hurry get on the road last summer (and also had to build a new battery box).

I used 1/8 inch polycarbonate--shop carefully as I found a sign shop to be double the price of a plastics dealer! As noted in a previous post, the frame is very wobbly without the plastic, and they rely on each other for strength. I didn't have a rivet puller when I started, so I went to the 'big orange box' for stainless screws and nuts. Yikes, retail stainless is such a ripoff, so lesson learned. I then bought the rivet puller as I was finishing this project.

I trial fitted the polycarbonate into the frame and drilled and countersunk the holes (for the screws). Then I removed the plastic from the frame to clean out the shavings. That ended up being a lot of work, as everything had to be lined-up and clamped again. In the end, it worked out well. I flipped the brace bracket around as Jim suggested, and had to make stand-offs for the bottom of the frame. I used my new rivet puller to attach those! While trying to bend the stand-offs in the vise, they kept cracking at the bend, and I ran short of aluminum flat bar, so I had to cobble together one of the stand-offs (note the double rivets in one of the photos). I wasn't able to put as much curve in the dividers to allow for brace clearance as Jim did, so my stand-offs had to be a bit deeper to keep the braces away from the window frames when closed.

I hope someone else can benefit from the photos--good luck. And thanks Jim!!
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:02 AM   #29
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Re-built Rock Guard

A few more photos....
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:07 AM   #30
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I used 1/16" Lexan which is closer to the original thickness that 1/8" a 4x8 sheet cost me about $50. I did not reinstall the braces, but may use some of the above ideas to get the clearance. However, with the 1/16 Lexan the rock guard is light enough to rest on the open front window.

Where can you get a rivet puller?
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:46 AM   #31
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great lookin guard 4slice!- are those underbelly rivets that you usedon your brace arms? I really appreciate the protection when traveling down the road-----jim
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:24 PM   #32
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Lumatic, I got a hand-operated rivet puller (I believe it's "Arrow" brand) at a discount farm supply store. There were various brands and prices, but mine was about $40 as it had a swivel head. It's a great tool to have, but there are so many rivet sizes & types that you really need to know the job you have to do (ie: Airstream stuff!) before you buy a box of rivets.

Jim, thanks for the comments. The rivets on the brace ends are factory, but the rivets on the stand-offs are ones that I bought from Vintage Trailer Supply. They're the ones for the underbelly sheets.

I was hoping to get a lightly tinted polycarbonate like yours, but the dealer said he has a four-sheet minimum on his orders, so I was stuck with clear. Oh well. Looks much better than the peeling window tint and broken guard that was on there before--the neighbors agree!
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