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Wayward · 06-04-2012, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGJackson

Ok, waywizard. I looked at the specs and see where the input voltage is 240VAC - not 120 VAC. I realize you have removed the transformer and are powerIng direct from 12v system. This little caveat may be why the refurbished version is so cheap.

WAYWIZARD can you provide information on the plug/input side of the transformer block. A picture would be great but I doubt text would be legible.

Thanks- dennis

Dennis - we just got back from trip to Florida, so I just got around to unpacking this.

The AC/DC power supply has a standard 120v (US) wall plug but it says it will accept 100-240vAC input (50 or 60 hz). Output is 12vDC 4.58amp.

I measured the plug. It is standard DCP-2155 DC coaxial power plug (center pin positive). Outside diameter is 5.5mm, inside diameter 2.1mm.

There are many option for 5.5mm x 2.1mm so I am going to solder on a plug and direct wire with an inline fuse, leaving the AC adapter as is.
2Pcs 5.5mm 2.1mm Solder Power Plug Connector 5.5/2.1 mm | eBay

Power specification in manual says it uses 41 watts max which is about 3.5 amps at 12v. So a 4 or 5 amp inline fuse will work.

For those who do not want to hardwire, the 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug is also available on a cigarette light type adapter. A search on ebay for "5.5mm 2.1mm adapter" will yield other options.

Photo of plug

Photo of Adapter

Photo of specs on adapter

Wayward · 06-04-2012, 12:55 PM

Just got around to hooking this up. As I posted above, the 12vDC connector is standard size, so I've got one, with a power cord attached, on order.

The set did arrive in a "white box" well packed in an eggshell carton. Looks like new. Manual and remote were unopened, and it does not appear that the stand was ever attached, so this was probably a store return.

I hooked it up first to my laptop with an HDMI cable running 1366x768 screen resolution. No dead pixels and it makes an excellent computer monitor. Crisp and bright. Very lightweight and thin. No mechanical switches, they are touch sensitive and built into the front bezel.

Played a DVD via the laptop and tried the cable box. All is well. If I get a chance to install it in the Airstream before our next trip I'll post some pics.

M2HB · 06-17-2012, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayward

Just got around to hooking this up. As I posted above, the 12vDC connector is standard size, so I've got one, with a power cord attached, on order.

The set did arrive in a "white box" well packed in an eggshell carton. Looks like new. Manual and remote were unopened, and it does not appear that the stand was ever attached, so this was probably a store return.

I hooked it up first to my laptop with an HDMI cable running 1366x768 screen resolution. No dead pixels and it makes an excellent computer monitor. Crisp and bright. Very lightweight and thin. No mechanical switches, they are touch sensitive and built into the front bezel.

Played a DVD via the laptop and tried the cable box. All is well. If I get a chance to install it in the Airstream before our next trip I'll post some pics.

I can't wait to see some pictures with it set up.

timmaah · 06-17-2012, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2HB

I can't wait to see some pictures with it set up.

I mounted ours on a swing arm. TV works great on 12v. Sound is ok. Searching for over the air channels is extremely slow. The remote is fairly small and compact. Perfect sized TV for our use.

In the picture it is hooked up to a media player with a HDMI cord.

RLS · 06-17-2012, 10:08 PM

I have this one mounted in the bedroom and it is also 12 volt

Walmart.com: Sceptre 23" Class LED 1080p 60Hz HDTV with Built-in DVD Player(1.7" ultra-slim) E243BD-FHD, Black: TV & Video

TouringDan · 06-17-2012, 10:20 PM

I have used one of the Vizio 22" 12v TV in my Airstream for two years now. I don't use it very much, but it works just fine on 12v. That is why I bought it. I mostly boondock and did not want to use an inverter if I did not have to. I will post pictures some time.

Dan

ddruker · 06-18-2012, 03:26 PM

First - newegg is great. I've ordered hundreds of things from them - they are super reliable and good to deal with.

I received the TV - it was in perfect condition in a vizio box - and installed in my 1999 Safari. I purchased a $25 videosecu mount from amazon - it is plenty strong to hold this light TV.

As far as the hookup is concerned, you can see where I mounted it in the picture below. As part of this project, I replaced the existing ugly fabric covering on the microwave cabinet with a piece of stainless sheet and then mounted the TV to the cabinet using bolts - because the cabinet it made of relatively thin 1/2" plywood I removed the microwave so I could get behind the panel, and then used bolts with fairly large washers to spread out the load instead of mounting with the supplied wood screws.

I'm almost done with hiding all the wiring.

I'm tapping into 12V power from the antenna amplifier which is just above the microwave cabinet. Like the previous poster, I purchased the right size 12V DC plug and soldered it on. On my trailer, the 12V supply to the antenna amplifier behind the skin is connected with 1/4" spade terminals - so I just soldered together a simple tap with male and female spade terminals on each end that I can plug into the existing power - makes for a very clean install.

I also added a small power switch with a blue power on LED behind the TV - I wanted to make sure I can turn the TV completely off when not using it. I have installed same switch for my media player and wireless router and they work great and look nice. The idea is to prevent these loads from draining the battery if I'm not using them - all of them do incur standby power consumption.

I've added an HDMI wall plate in place of the telephone jack above the microwave cabinet - so I can plug in any player with an HDMI out jack directly into the trailer (again for a clean install without wires hanging behind the TV)

Last, I installed a splitter off the feed from the antenna amplifier to the back bedroom - and routed the new feed directly to the new TV alongside the power and HDMI wiring.

I ran all the wires from the antenna amplifier under the skin to the inside of the microwave cabinet, and then behind the microwave, and will route to the TV through a small hole in the wall of the cabinet next to the mount directly behind the TV.

I purchased a small amount of expandable nylon sleeving to clean up all the wires behind the TV - it's like a stretchy black sock that goes around your wires to make the install look more professional.

For a project like this, parts express (Parts Express: the #1 source for audio, video & speaker building components) is your friend... It's a great resource for custom installation parts.

090-477 2.1mm x 5.5mm x 9.5mm DC Plug $1.40
082-336 Techflex 3/8" Expandable Sleeving 25 ft. Carbon $10.33
060-770 SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V $2.44
310-2304 Pyle PHDK8 Single Port HDMI Wall Plate $7.93

I also like that this TV is almost the perfect width for the space I have in my AS. I watched the end of the US open yesterday and it worked and sounded great. It picks up something like 75 digital channels here in the Bay Area.

Wayward · 06-18-2012, 06:05 PM

I installed the set this weekend so here are some pics. The set is great. I tested it with digital HD off the factory antenna, DVD from the laptop via HDMI cable, PC monitor via HDMI, and DVD on the factory Sony DVD play via the factory RCA Video cable.

It was running on 13.11 VDC with shore power hooked up. With HD TV from the antenna, at about half volume, the set draws 1.9 amps. Parasitic draw was less than 0.02amps.

All pictures were sharp and bright. There is a slight ground loop interference on the set with the factory DVD player. This is common and I may put a filter on or upgrade the cable later.

This Safari SE had the factory Sony 15" LCD set mounted on a Peerless articulating wall mount. It is a nice mount, securely installed by Airstream with a channel to hide the wires, so I kept it. The Peerless is a VESA mount. The original Sony TV did not have VESA mounting holes on it, so there is an adapter that can be left on the old Sony. The original screws work fine to remount the new set directly to the Peerless arm.

Here it is the finished installation. Because of the above mentioned adapter, the direct VESA mount moves the set about 2" lower on the wall - still good angles and it does not interfere with the sofa. No more AC power wire hanging down the wall!!

Here is a pic of the panel mount fuse holder from NAPA, to supply the new 12v supply cable. I used a 4amp fuse.

Airstream hid the power brick for the old Sony in the wall behind the fridge. I could not figure out an easy way to access that compartment without pulling the fridge. So, after taking the Winegard faceplate off and the AC power outlet above it, I squeezed it out:

Next I drilled a hole in the Winegard faceplate for the fuse holder. There really is only on place to put it once you see the size of the hole and how it slides back in. I soldered new power leads with shrink tubing, to the existing wires feeding the power socket and ran the positive over to the fuse holder.

Instead of soldering 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug on the wires as I originally planned, I bought a $3.50 36" power cable on eBay with a right angle plug on it for a cleaner install.

The Factory added a 'U' bracket to the Peerless mount, I can only guess, to help stabilize it when stowed for travel. That required two wider spaced VESA holes to be drilled in it as you can see up and down along the right side of this pic:

ddruker · 06-27-2012, 10:36 PM

I got around to doing the hard-wiring for the new TV today.

In the picture below, you can see I added a third wall plate on top of the TV area counter (in my AS this area is above the Microwave) that includes an HDMI plug as well as an on-off switch controlling power to the TV. The switch has a blue LED that lights up when power is turned on to the TV.

The HDMI plug is attached to an HDMI cable that goes to the back of the TV - so I can plug a laptop or iPad into the wall of the trailer instead of having to fiddle behind the TV.

I routed 12V power to the TV as well as an antenna connection behind the wall as well. I also included an in-line 10 amp fuse in the power connection. If you use spade lugs to tap into the power already going to the TV amplifier, the install is easy and clean - no need to cut any factory wires.

I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

Dan