This week I removed my trailers stock batteries, converter and inverter and replaced them with 400ah of battleborn batteries and a victron multiplus 3000. Everything was pretty straightforward with a couple of exceptions.
I’d say the most time consuming part was figuring out what the layout of the components would be.
I chose to put the batteries and multiplus in the front compartment because it’s such a pain for me to use that compartment for storage that I figured I might as well store some stuff there permanently. The only things I ever put in the front are my blue ox bows and the bar to lock them on, and they still fit with this installation. I’ve always managed to fit everything else into the port and starboard exterior compartments.
I also installed a victron battery monitor and the multicontrol so I don’t have to go in the front compartment to hit the on/off switch on the case of the multiplus. I wanted to mount both of these in the kitchen where the seelevel monitor is located, but I wanted to have them both in the same spot and there was only the pre wire for one of them. I looked into using the existing run of wire that the stock inverter remote panel (also located under the seelevel monitor) uses thinking I could replace that with the multiplus, but it wasn’t the right kind of wire. Next, I considered installing them in the bedroom above the thermostat, but my wife wouldn’t like the light given off by the leds on the multicontrol so I put it in the hallway next to the bathroom door. It was a convenient location to access because of the vent pipe.
There was one thing that had me puzzled for about 5 minutes. After I made all the connections and flipped it on for the first time none of the AC outlets were working. I realized the breaker for the AC outlets on my 2022 model goes to an outlet located next to the stock inverter. The stock inverter plugs into that outlet and then the AC OUT wire from the inverter feeds the AC outlets (or the other way around). Once I figured out that my removing of the inverter was breaking the whole circuit I replaced the outlet with a junction box and spliced the “AC OUT” from the inverter and the wires from the outlet together. Not sure if any of this makes any sense.
Anyway, it was terrifying to dig into my new trailer but also satisfying once everything was back together and working.
Next, I have to install the Orion dc-dc charger and the mppt charge controller.
When the weather is going to be reliably sunny I have 4 100w panels and 2 90w panels that will be installed up top. I also hope to clean up the “rats nest” a little at that time as well.
Finally got a couple days without rain here so I installed a victron mppt 100-50 along with some solar panels (4x 100 watt and 2x 90 long obsidian from zamp).
The oem zamp combiner box is spec’d to 510w so I went ahead and replaced it with a c-box from AM Solar.
After much consideration I made the choice to use fasteners instead of tape for the mounts, so I guess it’s going to rain inside the trailer from now on (just kidding, I hope). I just have to go up there again to secure the cables with eternabond tape.
Next is the dc-dc charger.
2016 27' International
1997 34' Limited
Saint Cloud
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 133
I am just finishing my solar as well. Mounted 4 100w Obsidian on the roof but still need to terminate on the roof and inside at the solar controller. The Vic 3000w inverter and 400Ah of batteries are already mounted inside and working.
__________________
Gil
"Everyone buys on emotion and justifies with logic.
That is why I own 2 Airstreams... I needed them."
I am just finishing my solar as well. Mounted 4 100w Obsidian on the roof but still need to terminate on the roof and inside at the solar controller. The Vic 3000w inverter and 400Ah of batteries are already mounted inside and working.
Sounds good!
I also got my victron 3k inverter and 400ah of batteries installed just in time for our spring break trip. It changes everything, and removes the stress of making sure the batteries don't get over discharged.
You went all out! I have same unit as you but a 27'. In process of doing Lithium upgrade now but only doing 200ah G27 Battleborns and putting in the outside battery box. Still feeling out the type camping we will be doing. Not sure how much dry camping we will be doing so trying to avoid going all out and upgrading everything for right now. Worked on today on fact. We sprung for the solar package so have the 180W panels on the roof already but I will be adding 2 more 90w panels plus bought a separate Zamp suitcase solar charger to plug in up front by battery box when I feel like. I bought the portable Westinghouse 4500W dual fuel generator and rigged it so I can run it right off the propone connection of the rig so if we boondock and still want to have full use of everything including A/C unit I can. Nice machine. Only 100 lbs so can easily handle and throw in our TV when we think we will need. Good alternative rather than going 400-600 Ah in BB batteries for now. I got the batteries in and most of the wiring outside is done. I have some more 4awg wire coming Monday so I can finish up last bit of terminations. Also got the Smart Solar 150/35 MPPT also arriving Monday to replace the Blue Solar module. This way with BT I can see all data coming through the smart shunt and solar data through the Victron app.
I was going to beef up and replace the 1000W inverter to same Progressive Dynamics 2000w one so can push more power when dry camping but didn't feel like replacing the stock wire through the floor to the battery box AS used. They already incorporated less gauge wire (4awg) routed for the 1000w inverter than they should have used. I actually put a call into the dealer to log that issue.
One thing I wanted to do was power the galley, bathroom, and bedroom outlets(all these on the same breaker in the panel in fact) to also have them run on the inverter when that's switched on. I saw what you mentioned about that outlet that powers the inverter. I have the same. Where does the "DC Out" line go from the stock inverter that it powers the dinnette, tv outlets, and outlet where DVD player is housed? There has to be a junction box somewhere where the nema cable is all tied in for those and then goes to breaker panel I assume? I'd like to tie in the other outlets as mentioned into the inverter circuit so can also run some smaller 120v items on those outlets too. Appreciate your guidance on that since you clearly went through all that wiring to install your Multiplus 3000
Appreciate the detail you provided in your upgrade. That spot you picked where you housed everything is most logical because all the stock electronics and wiring was already in that front corner of the passenger side bed. If I ever get to the point where I go full blown upgrade that's where I would put all my hardware too. It looks like yours is 30 amp system since I see just 1 A/C unit on roof. We have 50 amp so only difference is I would go with the Multiplus II unit which is just a better fit for 50amp service.
Hi Electronut,
Yeah, I tried to sort of futureproof this install because I wanted to do it all in one shot. There is a tax credit on solar installs I'll be using that will decrease after the new year so I wanted to install everything I thought I might want to have instead of adding it later when I won't get as much money back.
About the DC wiring from the stock inverter to the battery box, it's really accessible if you decide you need to replace it. Airstream merely drilled a hole in the floor and the wire runs outside to the battery box.
On the stock inverter there should be an AC IN, AC OUT, a bare ground wire, and pos and neg DC IN. If I am remembering correctly the red and black DC wires attached to the inverter bring power directly in from the batteries, then gets inverted and sent to AC OUT which goes directly to the televisions, DVD player, and dinette plug. That's how things work when you're not hooked up to shore power.
When you are hooked up to shore power, the AC goes straight to the main AC breaker and feeds the breaker labeled "15 AMP Inverter Recepts" which runs to that outlet next to the inverter. This way the shore power AC flows from that outlet into the plug wired to the inverter AC IN and passes through the inverter to power the television/dvd/dinette circuit without the inverter needing to be turned on.
Now, the way I rewired things:
1. When I removed the stock inverter I cut the AC OUT wire from it and removed the outlet that the AC IN was plugged into. I then spliced those two romex wires together, thus connecting the tv/dvd/dinette circuit directly to the breaker labelled "15 AMP Inverter Recepts".
2. Shore power receptacle is now wired directly to the victron inverter AC IN (instead of to the breaker panel), and AC OUT goes from the victron inverter to the main breaker on the AC panel. This way power is provided to all of the breakers/outlets if shore power is present, or if boondocking with the inverter turned on. In either case, AC is now powering all of the breakers in the panel. Also worth noting, because the victron inverter I installed also charges the batteries I disconnected the stock converter under the breaker panel.
I've also read that for a 50amp rig the Multiplus II is the way to go.
I hope I was able to describe things here without making you crosseyed. Let me know if there is anything that I made more confusing.
2016 27' International
1997 34' Limited
Saint Cloud
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 133
27FB Lithium / Inverter / Solar Install
Electronut,
I have a 2016 27FB International Sig that I am just finishing up the Solar install. It took me a bit to figure out how the existing wiring worked for the inverter circuit.
Yours may be different but in mine the factory inverter circuit is not routed to the Breaker panel. See attached drawing which should be in your Manual in the Maintenance section (section 8 for me).
All the inverted outlets are wired on a single circuit directly from the Inverter in the front electrical area with Romex. These outlets are not wired like all the ones you want to power. In fact, I don't think you want to connect the inverter AC circuit to the noninverted circuit. Two sources of AC power are not good. In fact, there is an automatic transfer switch (TS) between your normal AC plug on the side of the trailer and the Generator Plugin the front, so they can’t both provide power to the trailer at the same time.
I abandoned the inverter circuits altogether and connected the new Victron Multiplus 3000w Inverter to the power panel. It will pass the AC through so all the AC loads in the trailer work all the time. Even at a rest stop when you want to use the microwave. If you have already upgraded to Lithiums I highly recommend upgrading your Inverter to 3000w. I have a friend who is in the process of upgrading his 2000w to 3000w.
My inverter was placed in the front storage area, so I had to do the following:
1. Remove all power and disconnect the batteries.
2. Move the Transfer Switch (TS) from the back of the power panel to the front of the trailer under one of the beds. It is screwed onto the back of the Power Panel and comes off easily.
3. Rewire the Shore power plug and Generator Plug to the transfer switch and added a 30amp breaker after the transfer switch. All with 10awg wire 3 conductors (2 + ground).
a. Shore power plug wiring is accessible from under the wardrobe.
4. Wire the transfer switch to AC IN on the Inverter.
5. Pull out 10awg Romex (very stiff) wire from Shore power plug and pull new wire from AC OUT on the Inverter back to the wardrobe then over to the power panel Main Breaker.
a. There is a wire duct that runs across the trailer under the floor at the power panel. It goes from under the wardrobe to under the power panel. The existing shore power plug used this path and it was fairly easy to thread the new wire across. It is about 6” wide and 2.5” tall.
I hope this makes sense. It was a little time consuming, but it is great to be able to use anything in the trailer, with the exception of the A/C, when you want.
I am also attaching some block diagrams in a pdf file. Sometimes pictures are a lot better than my descriptions.
Good luck whichever way you go. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.
__________________
Gil
"Everyone buys on emotion and justifies with logic.
That is why I own 2 Airstreams... I needed them."
Yours may be different but in mine the factory inverter circuit is not routed to the Breaker panel. See attached drawing which should be in your Manual in the Maintenance section (section 8 for me).
All the inverted outlets are wired on a single circuit directly from the Inverter in the front electrical area with Romex. These outlets are not wired like all the ones you want to power. In fact, I don't think you want to connect the inverter AC circuit to the noninverted circuit. Two sources of AC power are not good. In fact, there is an automatic transfer switch (TS) between your normal AC plug on the side of the trailer and the Generator Plugin the front, so they can’t both provide power to the trailer at the same time.
I'm not sure Electronut's trailer is wired from the factory as you describe if it's a 2022 model. There's only one shore power connection (so I think no transfer switch), and in the diagram you can see the factory inverter is plugged into an outlet that is fed from breaker #4 on the panel, which allows AC to pass through to the inverter circuit when supplied by shore power (letter N on the diagram, inverter is letter P), which is how my 2022 model was wired as well.
Here’s some photos of the rats nest before I replaced the inverter. The arrows are pointing to the AC IN and the receptacle where it plugs into. This is on a 2022 FC 25FBT 30a.
Hi Electronut,
About the DC wiring from the stock inverter to the battery box, it's really accessible if you decide you need to replace it. Airstream merely drilled a hole in the floor and the wire runs outside to the battery box.
Yes I traced both those 4AWG DC wires from the inverter to the battery box. That negative 4AWG is the main negative feed line now line from the battery box and is what line I split to add in the Victron Smart Shunt right there in the passenger bed corner area. I cut and tied the inverter negative right to the negative bus bar located on the side of the 12vdc distribution panel. Then just got another short 4AWG neg wire to jump from neg bus bar to system load side of the smart shunt and that completed the loop. The other 6awg negative battery cable I disconnected from the outside batteries and I tied into an installed neg bus bar inside the battery box (which runs to the inside neg bus bar as orignal) so I could also tie in electronics into the shunt that I power from the outside of my rig (TPMS system, LED Underglow and rock guard lights (also on own fused and weatherproofed lighted SPST switches) , Portable Solar Panel etc). This way I capture all usage. If I ever go to a 2000W inverter I would have to pull out that 4 awg wire and replace to 2/0 awg and that is big cable. Highly unlikely it would fit in that little hole in the floor. I'll see. One step at a time for now. May not ever need it.
Quote:
On the stock inverter there should be an AC IN, AC OUT, a bare ground wire, and pos and neg DC IN. If I am remembering correctly the red and black DC wires attached to the inverter bring power directly in from the batteries, then gets inverted and sent to AC OUT which goes directly to the televisions, DVD player, and dinette plug. That's how things work when you're not hooked up to shore power.
Got all of that. However that AC OUT NEMA wire from the inverter is a single line. How and where does that line get tied into those 4 different receptacles that power the televisions, DVD player, and dinette? There has to be a subpanel somewhere it all ties into. There are 4 sets of 3 conductor nema wire somewhere that ties together to join that nema AC OUT line on the inverter.
Quote:
When you are hooked up to shore power, the AC goes straight to the main AC breaker and feeds the breaker labeled "15 AMP Inverter Recepts" which runs to that outlet next to the inverter. This way the shore power AC flows from that outlet into the plug wired to the inverter AC IN and passes through the inverter to power the television/dvd/dinette circuit without the inverter needing to be turned on.
This now explains alot and I see the engineering how shore AC power goes to the inverter which has a built in transfer switch. The mystery is the previous paragraph for how all the lines tie into that AC inverter output.
Quote:
Now, the way I rewired things:
1. When I removed the stock inverter I cut the AC OUT wire from it and removed the outlet that the AC IN was plugged into. I then spliced those two romex wires together, thus connecting the tv/dvd/dinette circuit directly to the breaker labelled "15 AMP Inverter Recepts".
That's smart. You basically removed the inverter and transfer switch and permanently connected shore power only to the previously inverted lines.
Quote:
2. Shore power receptacle is now wired directly to the victron inverter AC IN (instead of to the breaker panel), and AC OUT goes from the victron inverter to the main breaker on the AC panel. This way power is provided to all of the breakers/outlets if shore power is present, or if boondocking with the inverter turned on. In either case, AC is now powering all of the breakers in the panel. Also worth noting, because the victron inverter I installed also charges the batteries I disconnected the stock converter under the breaker panel.
This is sweet! Understand it completely. Now I am jealous I didn't go all the way like you did :-)
I just about finished the upgrade. The 2 additional 90watt Zamp roof panels are ordered and waiting for them to get here. I am also adding a temperature sensor cable on the aux connection of the smart shunt tomorrow since I'm keeping the heated BB batts outside in the battery box obviously and so I can keep an eye on the temps. I added a leftover lighted/weatherproof SPST toggle switch to power on the heat function of the batteries directly into a hole cutout on the passenger side battery box. Fit perfect like that's what it was intended for.
I was concerned about the slightly longer 4 awg negative run from the shunt to the batteries in the outside battery box but the shunt is operating spot on with capturing voltage, watts, etc. Very accurate. BT reception of both the shunt and MPPT are excellent throughout the entire 27' of interior space of our Flying Cloud FBT
2016 27' International
1997 34' Limited
Saint Cloud
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 133
2022 Inverter wiring
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlIslander
I'm not sure Electronut's trailer is wired from the factory as you describe if it's a 2022 model. There's only one shore power connection (so I think no transfer switch), and in the diagram you can see the factory inverter is plugged into an outlet that is fed from breaker #4 on the panel, which allows AC to pass through to the inverter circuit when supplied by shore power (letter N on the diagram, inverter is letter P), which is how my 2022 model was wired as well.
Yes, I agree with you. They have made several changes in how the Inverter is wired. I hope I did not steer him off the path. I have a 2016 27FB 30 Amp.
I am wondering if going to a 50A model eliminates the Generator Connection in the Front of the Trailer or is it a design change.
__________________
Gil
"Everyone buys on emotion and justifies with logic.
That is why I own 2 Airstreams... I needed them."
I would not worry about the current through the 7 way wire. The wire is simply too small to carry much current.
But I would also recommend to install the Victron DC-DC charger (I have a 12| 30, but there are smaller ones available). This will involve more work as you will have to run at least one and possibly 2 (a ground wire instead of relying on the truck chassis) wires from the rear of the truck to the trailer.
After boondocking for several days either in a shady spot or cloudy weather, you can recharge your batteries from the truck alternator either in place or as driving down the road. Of course, you can do that from a generator too, but it will happen automatically as you drive.
Got all of that. However that AC OUT NEMA wire from the inverter is a single line. How and where does that line get tied into those 4 different receptacles that power the televisions, DVD player, and dinette? There has to be a subpanel somewhere it all ties into. There are 4 sets of 3 conductor nema wire somewhere that ties together to join that nema AC OUT line on the inverter.
The AC Out is a single line that runs in series to the bedroom tv, lounge tv, dinette receptacle, and DVD player all in one wire run (highlighted red on the diagram). No sub panel, I just cut the 3 conductor wire at the AC OUT, replaced the receptacle with a junction box, and connected the two runs of wire (red and green on the diagram) together in that new junction box using WAGO connectors.
Sounds like you’re well on your way with your upgrade!
The AC Out is a single line that runs in series to the bedroom tv, lounge tv, dinette receptacle, and DVD player all in one wire run (highlighted red on the diagram). No sub panel, I just cut the 3 conductor wire at the AC OUT, replaced the receptacle with a junction box, and connected the two runs of wire (red and green on the diagram) together in that new junction box using WAGO connectors.
Sounds like you’re well on your way with your upgrade!
Ahh! Light bulb finally went off😂 I see that now in the AS plan you posted. Got by me previously when you explained. Thanks so much. That schematic is in the manual? I have to check that. So I see what they did. The circuit is daisy chained to each outlet.
You did a fantastic job with your install. I have to say our unit is actually pretty well laid out and accessible to handle the full upgrade you did. Your helpful details opened my eyes to it. If ever I take the next step to go all out on the upgrade I have to thank you for your awesome explanations. I'm grateful.
So back to your install and sorry for slightly hijacking your thread.
Why did you decide on 400ah for power? Just curious why that number because you could have done 600ah easily. Another $2k is totally a good answer if you didn't have that in your budget😉 You had the room and will really give you more run time. Your solar upgrade is fantastic to handle it too. You convinced me and I actually sent an email to Zamp to bump my order and getting a 3rd 90watt panel for the roof. So will have 5 total up there for 450watts. I might as well. Plus I have my 230watt portable suitcase. I don't have plans for a DC to DC charger and actually disconnected the black #4 pin 10awg battery charge wire on the AS 7way tied to the 12v DC distribution panel to play safe with my alternator and parisitic draw to the TV battery. So I won't be charging while driving with TV. Figured I could use the extra solar to pump juice into the batteries while driving with the TV.
AlIslander - I'd install the Micro Air Easy Start on the A/C unit too so you can moderately cool down the AS on the inverter for a little while if you wanted. Nice feature while you have all that power.
I'll post pics of my upgrade so far in my other thread I had started in this same forum section. We will catch up soon! Just need to get Phase II done on my end now with the solar panels. 👍
I just studied the schematic for the wiring in my manual too on my specific unit and had an idea I wanted to throw out at you. I doubt this is up to code but may be a workaround to get the other outlets included on the oem inverter circuit. Perhaps a reason for me to also upgrade to the 2000w inverter and beef up the 4awg wire to 2/0 awg out to the battery box but I can wait on this. I like toying on the tech stuff and if can get the galley outlet inverted it may just be a reason to get the Progressive Dynamics 2000w inverter installed at minimal costs.
What if I take the breaker #5 wires that has the other outlets I wanted to tie into the inverter(they are all daisy chained as well on a single line) and install a junction box behind the breaker panel to tie into the inverter circuit breaker #4 wires which I will cut a short run of 14-2 nema to connect into the junction box? Change the inverter 15 amp breaker in the panel to a 20 amp breaker which is the max the panel can handle. I'll never have those outlets used and running all at once to be concerned on overloading the inverter or heating up the circuit and jeopardizing the electronics (at least I don't think so). You think this can work? Any risks doing so? With the new 2000w inverter I can likely get this all done for less than $1000. I do notice the breaker #5 wires are listed as GFCI because the outlets in the galley and bathroom are near water and that's because of code but don't see an issue with tying those into the inverter. That could be why they are on a separate line in fact because of that specific reason.
I chose 400ah because my aim was to be able to camp 4 nights without hookups. That should be enough to run the fridge, fans, a little television at night, and run the propane furnace if needed. But, like you said there is room for a couple more batteries in there that could be installed if I find 400ah inadequate during this coming camping season.
I actually did install a microair easystart right after I got my trailer! We don’t plan to use the air conditioning very much because we spend most of our time in high latitudes and elevations, but we will have the option to use it a little if needed. I’ve actually used the heat pump quite a lot the past few months.
Also, we’re going to be doing some moochdocking and the victron multiplus allows us to control how many amps are being pulled from a 15 or 20 amp household circuit (e.g. if we’re plugged into an extension cord from someone’s garage), so we won’t trip a breaker in our host’s garage, and the remaining power that’s needed would be drawn from our batteries. This will greatly extend our 400ah of batteries especially when using the air conditioner.
As for your idea on combining your 4th and 5th circuit, I suppose it would work if you know you won’t be using more than a couple plugs at a time. You would have to be careful about not making the physical length of the wire runs too long as to increase resistance in the circuit. You might have to deal with the nuisance of tripping of the breakers often. I would want to figure out a way of keeping the GFCI functionality of the breakers at a minimum too. Maybe someone reading this with more experience than me can chime in on that.
I chose 400ah because my aim was to be able to camp 4 nights without hookups. That should be enough to run the fridge, fans, a little television at night, and run the propane furnace if needed. But, like you said there is room for a couple more batteries in there that could be installed if I find 400ah inadequate during this coming camping season.
I actually did install a microair easystart right after I got my trailer! We don’t plan to use the air conditioning very much because we spend most of our time in high latitudes and elevations, but we will have the option to use it a little if needed. I’ve actually used the heat pump quite a lot the past few months.
Also, we’re going to be doing some moochdocking and the victron multiplus allows us to control how many amps are being pulled from a 15 or 20 amp household circuit (e.g. if we’re plugged into an extension cord from someone’s garage), so we won’t trip a breaker in our host’s garage, and the remaining power that’s needed would be drawn from our batteries. This will greatly extend our 400ah of batteries especially when using the air conditioner.
Gotcha! Great minds think alike! Great job!
Quote:
As for your idea on combining your 4th and 5th circuit, I suppose it would work if you know you won’t be using more than a couple plugs at a time. You would have to be careful about not making the physical length of the wire runs too long as to increase resistance in the circuit. You might have to deal with the nuisance of tripping of the breakers often. I would want to figure out a way of keeping the GFCI functionality of the breakers at a minimum too. Maybe someone reading this with more experience than me can chime in on that.
I really think this can work. Outlets aren't used heavily for us. Would be great if can run a coffee maker on the galley outlet or even a 1500w heater in bedroom if we want using the inverter. I just dont want to create a gremlin, other operational issue, or even worse a fire hazard which that would be really extreme and way out there to have happen. It's a pretty easy mod though and easily reversible if doesn't work well. Really interested to hear others feedback on this. I may test this setup with the 1000w inverter still in line but use my 50amp shore power hookup at home and push through load tests to see if a 20amp breaker can handle all of those outlets in series.
I scrapped the idea to ajoin the other outlets to the inverter outlet. It would be possible but wasn't too keen about running another length of romex from the inverter area to the breaker panel. Could have been done but wasn't sure how to do it clean from the foot of the passenger bed to the left wall of the bathroom. There was access underneath from that point however and I could have accomplished. Didn't want to drill holes in the cabinetry for that little distance The romex would be exposed there on the floor for a couple feet and didn't want it to show that way or hide under a base molding. I might still do the 2000w Progressive Dynamics inverter swap. We will see.
Speaking of which when it comes to the wiring for our units, how did you run the 30amp shore power wire coming into the unit to where you installed the Multiplus to connect the input wiring and the output wiring back to the breaker panel? What route did you take to do that and how evasive was it?
My 50amp unit would be even tougher because it's 6/3 wire and it is extremely hard to work with. I installed the 50amp outlet at my house on a 120' run from my 200amp panels in my basement. That was a pain. Not sure how I would route it in the AS to that front storage area. All the wires in the AS run between the walls.
Speaking of which when it comes to the wiring for our units, how did you run the 30amp shore power wire coming into the unit to where you installed the Multiplus to connect the input wiring and the output wiring back to the breaker panel? What route did you take to do that and how evasive was it?
To route the shore power to the multiplus in the front compartment instead of the breaker panel I disconnected the romex from the main breaker in the panel, and installed a new junction box behind the panel. I used wago connectors to put a new run from that junction box to the front compartment. It connects to the AC IN on the multiplus then a new run of romex back the same way to the main breaker. On my unit which is a front bed twin I was able to run the romex along the wall with a bunch of other wires that goes around the water heater and forward through the curb side exterior compartment (there is a metal cover that they were just able to fit under), and then through the rats nest and over to the front compartment.
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.
We don’t plan to use the air conditioning very much because we spend most of our time in high latitudes and elevations, but we will have the option to use it a little if needed. I’ve actually used the heat pump quite a lot the past few months. 
Linear Mode
