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Old 12-26-2006, 06:38 PM   #1
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Marey instant water heater

Anyone have experience with the Marey instant hot water heaters sold ob eBay ($89.99)?
I was thinking of installing one on my 79 AS (Iknow they are 110v only).
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

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Old 12-26-2006, 08:01 PM   #2
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I looked on ebay and found this eBay: NEW INSTANT HOT TANKLESS ELECTRIC SHOWER WATER HEATER (item 330057038962 end time Dec-31-06 18:51:30 PST)
In the picture of how to install it shows it plugged into a 15 amp outlet, but in the product discription it says that it requires 30 amps. Based on the 3000 watt rating 30 amps would sound right. To install it you would have to install a seperate circut with a 30 amp breaker, heavier wires and a special outlet. Also you would not be able to use anyother electrical devices in the trailer when this was on.
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Old 12-26-2006, 09:22 PM   #3
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We wanted to use an electric water heater, the instant water heater seems out. What about the "Tiny Titan" 2.5 gal water heaters (110v) that are sold at Lowe's Home Depot?
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
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Old 12-26-2006, 09:44 PM   #4
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I don't suppose you were planning on showering with a 2.5gal heater were you?
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Old 12-26-2006, 10:25 PM   #5
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Well it would be quick! Our gas water heater is 6 gallons, since we were remodeling we thought we might install an electric unit since we don't plan to be away from shore power. Lowes has a variety of electric water heaters from the 2.5, 6 & 10 gallon 110v heaters. I had thought about the tiny titan because it was so compact, but the 10gal would fit in one of my closets. Just thinking outloud.
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
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Old 12-26-2006, 10:32 PM   #6
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Actually I had been bouncing around the idea of using a 110v 6 or 10 gallon electric water heater and using it as a water heater when connected to city water and also using it to serve as a fresh water tank by adding a on/off wall switch and tying in the 12 volt pump.
We removed the front fresh water tank when we installed new carpet and a futon.
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:01 AM   #7
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I am not sure what you are trying to do, but here is a good article that talks about power useage and limits that you have. The 30 amps that you plug into only goes so far. You need to add up the amp draw of the electrical devices and keep that number under the 30 amp limit.
RV Converters And Amp Draw (RV Camping Tips Courtesy of KOA Campgrounds)
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:01 AM   #8
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My $0.02 is to go with the gas that should be there, you will need the closet space and the extra power draw is too much with all the other things running,
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:04 AM   #9
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I am not sure why you would want to change out the hot water heater you currently have. We have the standard hot water heater that came with our AS and we have never had any problems. Always have it when we need it and seem to always be enough for the two of us. Between showers and doing dishes we have never run out. If its not broken..... For the few cents it costs to heat our water we are very happy.
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:11 AM   #10
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I have a few things I'm thinking. First 2 gallons isn't worth the trouble. Even with 6 gallons a shower can be short. 2, might as well just stand in the rain.

The other think I was thinking (and that's typically my first problem ), is that I would be concerned about placing a 10 gallon somewhere in the trailer that already will have a bunch of weight. RV builders do have a somewhat science to building where weight is distributed in a certain way to avoid one side getting all the heavy stuff. 10 gallons placed in the wrong area could add about 86lbs. Doesn't sound like much until you weigh in...also not sure what your axle condition is......
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:19 PM   #11
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Well the old gas unit was only 6 gallon, so either gas or electric thats not much, (6 gallon in an electric weighs the same as 6 gallon in a gas unit).
I ordered an Ariston GL8 electric today, it hold 7.5 gallon and is 1500 watt when its heating, otherwise its off, $175.00 free delivery 6 year warranty.
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:25 PM   #12
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weight

I'm just venting ,but I hear people crying about weight all the time, if the frame on this raggedy trailer can't support a couple of exrtra pounds i'll melt it down and turn it into a flower pot.
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1979 Airstream Sovereign International, 31'. VIN# I31T9J0162

1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon, 5.7L - V8, stock 5000# tow rating, posi, aux trans cooler, rear coil over shocks, 2" rear spring lift kit, flowmaster exhaust.
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookeville34
Well the old gas unit was only 6 gallon, so either gas or electric thats not much, (6 gallon in an electric weighs the same as 6 gallon in a gas unit).
I ordered an Ariston GL8 electric today, it hold 7.5 gallon and is 1500 watt when its heating, otherwise its off, $175.00 free delivery 6 year warranty.
I've got a 2006 - and if the standard propane water heater hasn't changed very much over the years except for the electronic ignition, then I've got to say I'm impressed with the speed mine heats it's six gallons. I full time and frankly, I leave it on all the time. During the summer I went 4 months on two 20LB tanks, and I cook on my stove top quite a lot. When I travel I turn off my tanks. It takes 5 minutes to heat up a tank of water for my shower. I have a 10 gallon electric in the office, and it takes 30 minutes to heat a new tankful if we run it out. I'd go with gas or propane just for the speed of reheating.

I notice that some campgrounds are now actually metering electricity - probably because so many RV'ers are trying to save money by using space heaters, electric water heaters, and electric frypans and crock pots. I'm guessing metering will be a big trend in future. There are even some that you swipe a credit card into before you get juice! You might not save anything going electric.

If you really need a bigger water heater, have you considered an 8 gallon propane? Buy it from salvage if you don't want to spend $$$. If you decide to resell your Airstream, a "home type" refrigerator or water heater tends to be a real turn-off for buyers. Unfortunately potential buyers can assume that the owner has "gone cheap" on maintenance and repairs. Everywhere on this forum you hear stories of plumbing "repairs" done with duct tape or garden hose, wires spliced with scrap lamp cords, silicone layered on windows, vents and seams, and similar hidden horrors. The home appliance is seen as an outward and visible sign...

With free advice, you get what you pay for I guess.

Paula
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookeville34
Well the old gas unit was only 6 gallon, so either gas or electric thats not much, (6 gallon in an electric weighs the same as 6 gallon in a gas unit).
I ordered an Ariston GL8 electric today, it hold 7.5 gallon and is 1500 watt when its heating, otherwise its off, $175.00 free delivery 6 year warranty.
Since you have already ordered, this is academic, but did you consider the 110 v. Hot Rod which consists of a heating element which replaces your drain plug, a thermostat and a switch? This package could supplement your propane or could keep the water hot while on the grid.
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Old 12-27-2006, 07:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookeville34
I'm just venting ,but I hear people crying about weight all the time, if the frame on this raggedy trailer can't support a couple of exrtra pounds i'll melt it down and turn it into a flower pot.
My thoughts were more along the lines of placing a tank in a location that already has some weight to it, in a different place than the orig heater or placing a tank in an area which is disproportionate to the weight being spread out. I think the frame can handle it just fine in most cases....but I've seen some real questionable tank placements on units that were used full time. My comments were not so much with a 6 gallon, but more toward the 10 gallon. There are places you can install these that might not be a good balance, which IMHO is independ of the question of frame. The 70s units didn't have a lot of rear frame support from what I've heard. Placing additional weight in an area that didn't have that **could** be an issue, but it also **could** not be...just raising the concern. In the end what you do with your RV is up to you.
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:31 PM   #16
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Back to the Marey...

I've seen that one too. (Item number: 330120936231). This is an LP model. Has anyone tried this one? It would eliminate the current draw issue.

eBay Motors: RV CAMPER TRAILER CABIN LPG GAS TANKLESS WATER HEATER (item 330120936231 end time May-27-07 05:49:27 PDT)
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Old 05-26-2007, 06:49 AM   #17
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I've seen that one too. (Item number: 330120936231). This is an LP model. Has anyone tried this one? It would eliminate the current draw issue.

eBay Motors: RV CAMPER TRAILER CABIN LPG GAS TANKLESS WATER HEATER
(item 330120936231 end time May-27-07 05:49:27 PDT)
Shineybean,

This unit is clearly mis-labeled. I'm sure it would be fine for a house or cabin, BUT IT IS NOT RVIA CERTIFIED FOR RV USE!! It is NOT built to withstand the elements, must be vented (obvious from the top) and it's components probably are NOT built to take the rigors of bouncing down the road in a trailer or other RV. Any RV gas appliance must be sealed and isolated from the interior of the RV to not allow any LP into the interior and to operate safely and within the RVIA code. THIS UNIT IS NOT MADE TO DO THAT!!!

The ONLY certified tankless unit currently on the market is made by Precision-Temp....the RV-500. I have installed one of these in my CCD and also had one in my 40'Monaco Dynasty MoHo while I was full-timing. I have also used tankless units in my last 4 houses.

This unit is clearly a household unit, probably Chinese from the low cost (the RV-500 lists around $1000 and most of the tankless household units I've used start at $750). IMHO, your personal safety is not worth saving a few bucks! But it's YOUR hide and YOUR bucks!

Be careful out there!!!!
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Old 06-02-2007, 01:20 PM   #18
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That's good to know. Guess I'll have to break down and spend the extra $$$...
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