Rebuilding Waste valves

[balrgn]

Is there a good resource for rebuild kits for the 3" Thetford valves? I have a section of the floor removed in my '75 Tradewind and removed the waste pipe. Now would be a good time to do Preventive Maintenance....

[Ken J]

On my 75, I just replaced the whole valve - found that to be easier.

Ken

[RiskIt]

I did the same (replace it). BUT>>>> I had to buy 4 of them to finaly get the right one. I must have explaind it wrong to one guy on the phone, and I ordered the others online looking at pictures. I haven't had time to try and return them yet. I was going to just put them on ebay along with a bunch of stuff I had left over from my rebuild. If you let me know what it looks like or better yet a picture I might be able to help you out.

[Chuck]

I just bought a whole valve from a trailer place in Danvers, Ma. not tooooo far from either of you 2 s. NH people. But you can get them online almost anywhere.

which reminds me....you guys should come check out the wally club next spring....our first rally is at the Salisbury Beach state park. At least come visit, if you can't camp w/ us for the weekend. the NewEngland unit of the wbcci is "not your father's wally club". although, now that I think of it, alot of us do have our father's era airstreams. lots of vintage owners.

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by RiskIt

I did the same (replace it). BUT>>>> I had to buy 4 of them to finaly get the right one. I must have explaind it wrong to one guy on the phone, and I ordered the others online looking at pictures. I haven't had time to try and return them yet. I was going to just put them on ebay along with a bunch of stuff I had left over from my rebuild. If you let me know what it looks like or better yet a picture I might be able to help you out.

I sent you A PM. If you would like to see the pics I have on the project so far:
http://home.comcast.net/~balrgn/Airs...oject_2004.htm

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by chuck

I just bought a whole valve from a trailer place in Danvers, Ma. not tooooo far from either of you 2 s. NH people. But you can get them online almost anywhere.

which reminds me....you guys should come check out the wally club next spring....our first rally is at the Salisbury Beach state park. At least come visit, if you can't camp w/ us for the weekend. the NewEngland unit of the wbcci is "not your father's wally club". although, now that I think of it, alot of us do have our father's era airstreams. lots of vintage owners.

I hate trowin away a good piece of plastic. I may go that route. Looking for options right now, while they are off the tanks.

When is the Rally??? I need to join soon eh?

[Inland RV Center, In]

balrgn.

The plastic used to make the dump valves is reasonably stabile.

However, dimensionally, in time, it changes.

Therefore, to rebuild the valves, reinstall them, only to find that they still might leak, is a great waste of time.

If your original valves only lasted 30 some years, so will the replacements.

It is very doubtful, that dump valve repairs will last that long.

The short of it will cost a little more money.

The long of it, is peace of mind, and saving considerable time, that could be put to better use, such as having a peace of mind, "cool one."

Andy

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by balrgn

When is the Rally??? I need to join soon eh?

oh, there's no rush, I'm sure. I haven't got an exact date for the rally, but I assume it is sometime in May.

I didn't see any pm's from you...I hope the mechanism isn't broken.

I did check out your pics, though. I have the same issue in the bathroom. not looking forward to the fix. I'll need to replace all the way across the back.

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by chuck

oh, there's no rush, I'm sure. I haven't got an exact date for the rally, but I assume it is sometime in May.

I didn't see any pm's from you...I hope the mechanism isn't broken.

I did check out your pics, though. I have the same issue in the bathroom. not looking forward to the fix. I'll need to replace all the way across the back.

I am replacing 12" along the back to get the punky stuff out. Looks like the band that goes around the back outside separated and water seaps in there.

It seemes everything I take apart 2 more things need attention. Oh well, love to tinker. That's why I got this one.
Andy Has a good point. out with the old in with the new. I'd hate to have to rework anything under there. Frame rail needs to have pieces

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by balrgn

Is there a good resource for rebuild kits for the 3" Thetford valves? I have a section of the floor removed in my '75 Tradewind and removed the waste pipe. Now would be a good time to do Preventive Maintenance....

I got the kit(s) from camping world for less than 25 bucks each. I redid both the valves in my MH. The new valves cost a pretty penny, and you have to cut the old ones off and solvent weld the new ones on. If you have the old off already due to misfortune or tank replacement, then I would go new IMHO, but the ones I have rebuilt have all been leak free, so far.

The valve body has a part number as part of the stamping on the valve. You need this number to be sure to get the correct kit. There are steel blade and plastic blade valves, depending on the year, or if they have been replaced in the past. This is the reason for the different kits. The valve comes apart with the removal of the 8(?) screws. The kit will contain a valve gasket to replace the one that tears as you take the halves apart, and the actual seal. The seal is pressed into the valve body by hand, but I use a wooden dowel to completely seat it in the groove. I also apply silicone to the seal after install, and to the blade, and O-ring on the handle stem. One thing to look at is if there is rust on the handle stem. The rust can cause it to bind or stick and you will not be able to get it open. I used a bit of emery paper to clean up the stems on mine and liberally siliconed them too.

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

I got the kit(s) from camping world for less than 25 bucks each. I redid both the valves in my MH. The new valves cost a pretty penny, and you have to cut the old ones off and solvent weld the new ones on. If you have the old off already due to misfortune or tank replacement, then I would go new IMHO, but the ones I have rebuilt have all been leak free, so far.

The valve body has a part number as part of the stamping on the valve. You need this number to be sure to get the correct kit. There are steel blade and plastic blade valves, depending on the year, or if they have been replaced in the past. This is the reason for the different kits. The valve comes apart with the removal of the 8(?) screws. The kit will contain a valve gasket to replace the one that tears as you take the halves apart, and the actual seal. The seal is pressed into the valve body by hand, but I use a wooden dowel to completely seat it in the groove. I also apply silicone to the seal after install, and to the blade, and O-ring on the handle stem. One thing to look at is if there is rust on the handle stem. The rust can cause it to bind or stick and you will not be able to get it open. I used a bit of emery paper to clean up the stems on mine and liberally siliconed them too.

Thanks for the info. I'll look around the area for rebuild kits.
The numbers are easlily read, 01447Slide-EZ Valve D.W.V. IAMPO T-1169. No rust, and prior to removal worked fine.

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by balrgn

Thanks for the info. I'll look around the area for rebuild kits.
The numbers are easlily read, 01447Slide-EZ Valve D.W.V. IAMPO T-1169. No rust, and prior to removal worked fine.

I found some one local that had a new valve. Got a great deal. I removed the internals and replaced the parts. The new one was different enough that if I attempted to replace the whole body I would be into a whole new project!