Retrofit '07 23' w/discs AND EZ-Lube?

[mutcth]

Hi all - I just spent an hour with the Google and couldn't quite figure this out...

I want to improve braking performance and decrease/simplify maintenance, so I would like to add Kodiak 10" disc brakes and EZ-lube hubs to my 5-bolt, drum brake, manually-repack-the-bearings 2007 Safari SE 23'. I don't really want to throw out the axles because that seems like added unnecessary expense.

The modularity and dealing with different manufacturers here is confusing me, so I'm not sure how I'd go about doing this. Does Dexter make a EZ-Lube spindle/hub upgrade, and then the Kodiak brake kit mounts over that? (I know I'd have to add lines and an actuator.)

Thanks!

[GCinSC2]

Do you know the hub design on your current axles? Traditional cup cone tapered or the cartridge style dexter never lubes? Completely different spindle, hub and bearing for each system.

And to exhaust all possible existing troubleshooting with the existing brakes, been there done that?

And what brake controller are you using might as well add TV info too.

Gary

[mutcth]

My trailer currently has the traditional hubs.

The drum brakes were just serviced, and everything is working fine, so it's not really a troubleshooting challenge; I just want the upgrade to self-adjusting, shorter-stopping discs and easy-to-lube hubs.

Tom

[PKI]

Just went through the process. Not happy. My RF controller is not compatible with electric over hydraulic actuator. Solution is Tuson anti-lock brakes and integrated controller. Not willing to travel to find the installation and integration capability. So back to drums.

A standard #10 Dexter axle is not an Ez-Lube axle. The Ez-Lube is just a cap that allows pumping in grease with a grease gun. Better to pack those bearings by removing the hub and getting your hands dirty. Also, the newer aluminum wheels have a cap that precludes access to the grease zerk fitting unless you drill a hole. Note - over pressure from adding grease pops seals. On my boat trailer - no problem. On the AS, no thanks.

The Never-Lube axles offered on newer trailers are cassette bearings. They are prelubed and run till replace or break. Lots of cars have them. Takes a new axle to get that capability. If you go that way, a six bolt wheel and 12in brakes makes more sense.

So, a hard wired compatible brake controller (EOH), the Kodak 10in disk brakes, and an electric over hydraulic actuator should fit you up. Don't forget a plumbing kit. They come as hard tube or flex line parts kits. Yes, different mfgs, but it all fits together. Look up the threads that discuss other disk installs and just change the parts for ones that fit your axles.

Spend the time to investigate the Tuson anti-lock braking system, if you believe disks to be an appropriate upgrade. Note - the Tuson sway control only works with electric brakes.

You just fixed all. Brakes good for 2-3 years, maybe. That's 15 year old axles. Not a terrible time to replace. Not necessary, maybe. However ...... Pat

[overlander63]

You won't be able to retrofit your trailer to EZ Lube, because EZ Lube requires holes and slots be drilled in the spindles to accommodate the grease fitting and delivery system.

[mutcth]

Thanks Pat and Terry. It might just be worth it for me to figure out how to service old-school bearings myself.

I'm using a wired DirecLink controller plugged into the Durango's under dash connector. My next tow vehicle is likely to be a Ford Explorer ST, which would also have a prewired under dash connector. But the warning about the RF controller issues is worthwhile, given that I've considered the previous-gen X5 as well.

I would LOVE the ABS, but I've got to see where all of that prices out.

[guskmg]

I have used DirectLink with a Dexter E/H pump and Kodiak brakes for 5 or 6 years with superior results. You can easily tune out the Hensley bump. The directLink is easy to install and plugs into your OBDII port. If you have other things to plug in "Ys" and TRYs" are available.
guskmg

[TouringDan]

I installed Kodak disk brakes on my 66 Tradewind and am very happy with them. I have a thread dated 10/7/17 covering their installation. More information may be gleaned from my thread in the trailer section titled Dan’s 66 Tradewind Improvements.



I installed new axles with the #84 spindle and easy lube bearings. I then installed the 10” Kodiak brakes. It was easy. I love the easy lube bearings. Note that use of the #84 spindles does require different wheels.



I installed the #1600 Tuson hydraulic pump with the Tuson brake controller. Installation was straight forward. It works very well.



I was concerned about installing the brake lines. That was easy. I spent the money on a special brake line flairing tool. The biggest challenge was how to route the flexible brake lines. I am not real happy with how I routed mine. I may try a different approach when I replace the front half of my belly pan.



PM me if you like. I will help you all I can.



The performance, confidence in operation and ease of maintenance make the cost well worth it to me. Equipped with disk brakes, new axles, new shocks and the Tuson hydraulic pump I believe I am towing the safest Airstream possible which is my goal. It will be even better when I am content with the flexible brake line routing.



Dan

[switz]

We replaced the original backing plate on the 10” drum brakes for the auto adjust version on our 2015 23D International Serenity. One would think the several thousand dollar up charge to Serenity trim would include the under $100 parts to auto adjust brakes.

We tow the 23D with my 2007 Mercedes ML 320 CDI turbo diesel. It was one of the first 2007s and the factory forgot to run the trailer brake wiring from the right rear to the drivers foot well.
So we have a Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller. The challenge is that there is interference that randomly can pulsate the brake signal if turn signals are flashing. I have learned to live we that issue.

Because of the diesel engine’s high compression, there is enough engine “drag” that descending 7 percent slopes at 35 mph in second gear requires no brake application. The engine does it just fine.

We have the Tuson brake control module in our 2012 Ram 2500HD Cummins to operate the BrakeRite 2 disc brake controller on our 31’ Classic. We have the 12” Kidiak discs. That is a great system. We contend with mountains going northwards out of the Phoenix area on every trip. Good brakes are important.

[mutcth]

Thanks everyone. Dan, I had read through your posts before my original post; I appreciate the offer for help. I failed/forgot to realize that I could just order the axles without brakes from Colin, and then add the brakes here.

I'm going to let the credit card cool down from my recent service and upgrades, but I'm liking the idea of discs. My wife didn't immediately shoot the idea down either...

Tom