Life Expectancy of new brakes & drums

[ROBERT CROSS]

[QUOTE=David F;2559848]Bob, why do you feel this way? I understand it is just your opinion, but in my opinion wireless works really well. Never have I had a wireless connection issue. Occasionally, I have a grounding through the tongue/ball issue but that is not the controllers fault. And they either work or don’t and if they don’t, you know it because the controller shows/tells you that there is no connection (I.e. grounding issue…I really should remove the gorilla tape from the hitch…there to stop banging/rattling from the figment slop).[/QUOT

I'll explain it this way..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it 'til it is".
I see no benefit over what I've been using.
I can set the controller at the start of the trip and never have to adjust it again, regardless of road conditions or weather.


TETO

Bob
🇺🇸

[SSquared]

Brakes do require some break-in time to get to where they are working well. My mechanic said he talked to Dexter and they said that you should have 200 miles or so on the brakes before declaring new brakes "bad" for either grabbing too little or getting too hot.

When we inspected my problem brake the first time, the wear pattern on the shoe surfaces showed that they were still not fully broken in; the end of the shoes had no wear on them.

I found the following in one of Dexter's installation manuals. I wonder how many mechanics actually instruct their customers to do this:

After replacement of brake shoes and linings, the brakes must be
re-burnished to seat the new components. This should be done by
applying the brakes 20-30 times from an initial speed of 40 mph,
slowing the vehicle to 20 mph. Allow ample time for the brakes to
cool between applications. This procedure allows the new brake
shoes to seat in to the drum surface

[gypsydad]

I have 48K on my 2017 28' FC. While at JC in October, i asked them to check my brakes and bearings. Turned out 3 of the 4 wheels were down to just about metal/metal. They told me the electric magnets were out of whack, which caused the issue. New pads, turning the drums, repairing some wiring to the controler, testing and adjusting the control units, along with the bearing inspections came to $1700 at JC. Not cheap, but I could notice a big difference in the brakes coming back to TX. Spendy...but at least I know it was fixed. You never know on these till you get it checked out...

[richard5933]

Curious why the brake linings are so thin on trailer brakes, even when brand new. A car with compatible weight would have much thicker linings. Is there a reason they do this or just as a cost-savings measure?

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Curious why the brake linings are so thin on trailer brakes, even when brand new. A car with compatible weight would have much thicker linings. Is there a reason they do this or just as a cost-savings measure?

Cost savings. Cheaper for the manufacturer….on my big trucks the thicker lining is a bit more money and it will go another 200,000 miles…

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by tjdonahoe

Cost savings. Cheaper for the manufacturer….on my big trucks the thicker lining is a bit more money and it will go another 200,000 miles…

I get that, but I don't think it's even possible to buy better brakes aftermarket. We get to just keep buying the same junk over and over, even if willing to pay more.

[Fungus]

It's not just the thinness of the lining that makes them such junk. The parts inside fail often enough to get quite a few threads here. The hardware comes apart and ends up scraping the drum or, worse, seizing up the wheel.

FWIW, I have both the Dexter and the Lippert 12" brakes. Thickness of lining differences are imperceptible to me. Dexter hardware is looser, as I've mentioned before. Don't know is this is good or bad.

Annual brake inspection (lube of hardware, too??) seems a prudent exercise. That requires pulling the drums which isn't difficult...just tedious. C'est la vie.

OR...

Install disc brakes, but that seems to bring its own set of issues.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Fungus

It's not just the thinness of the lining that makes them such junk. The parts inside fail often enough to get quite a few threads here. The hardware comes apart and ends up scraping the drum or, worse, seizing up the wheel.

FWIW, I have both the Dexter and the Lippert 12" brakes. Thickness of lining differences are imperceptible to me. Dexter hardware is looser, as I've mentioned before. Don't know is this is good or bad.

Annual brake inspection (lube of hardware, too??) seems a prudent exercise. That requires pulling the drums which isn't difficult...just tedious. C'est la vie.

OR...

Install disc brakes, but that seems to bring its own set of issues.

Yep they are all about the same..cheap springs..that break ..

[CMHM]

In case you are wondering how my brakes repair is going... well, the mechanic is having lunch at my table

I am not sure if I should laugh or cry (or call the service manager!)...

[Bill M.]

Just enjoy your lunch. Things are progressing. Nobody is going to tell a good mechanic to skip lunch.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Fungus

It's not just the thinness of the lining that makes them such junk. The parts inside fail often enough to get quite a few threads here. The hardware comes apart and ends up scraping the drum or, worse, seizing up the wheel.

FWIW, I have both the Dexter and the Lippert 12" brakes. Thickness of lining differences are imperceptible to me. Dexter hardware is looser, as I've mentioned before. Don't know is this is good or bad.

Annual brake inspection (lube of hardware, too??) seems a prudent exercise. That requires pulling the drums which isn't difficult...just tedious. C'est la vie.

OR...

Install disc brakes, but that seems to bring its own set of issues.

Originally Posted by tjdonahoe

Yep they are all about the same..cheap springs..that break ..

Not so much, if you adjust them at every Spring inspection, nothing is for never afterall...

Bob
🇺🇸

[Action]

If the repir is completed on time and the interior of your trailer is in the same condition you left it, I would be good with that outcome.

However if the interior needs cleaning after lunch, I would insist the company restores the trailer in the same condition as it was brought in.

And if the repairs are not completed on time, that vid isn;t going to sit too well with me.

Like Britian, the US is moving to the direction that everything is on a live feed. So everyone's behaviour and actions are being recorded for good or bad. One should get used to that. Then .....

Just smile and wave!!! Smile and wave.

Action

[CMHM]

So the trailer is done, they ordered the parts Thursday evening, got them this morning and I can pick it up in an hour. They called me and said they had to buy the parts from another shop, https://www.trailertech.net/ in Vegas, and each wheel (because I have the newest Dexter “Self Adjust”) comes to $501 a piece without the Airstream dealership markup, which is 80%. Plus 7h labor and he’s cutting that in half. So I guess I’m paying double retail mark-up because I’m far away from home and bleeding hotel money.
He said he’ll discuss the mark up with me when I get there, but these brakes better be ceramic racing car ones :-/

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by CMHM

So the trailer is done, they ordered the parts Thursday evening, got them this morning and I can pick it up in an hour. They called me and said they had to buy the parts from another shop, https://www.trailertech.net/ in Vegas, and each wheel (because I have the newest Dexter “Self Adjust”) comes to $501 a piece without the Airstream dealership markup, which is 80%. Plus 7h labor and he’s cutting that in half. So I guess I’m paying double retail mark-up because I’m far away from home and bleeding hotel money.
He said he’ll discuss the mark up with me when I get there, but these brakes better be ceramic racing car ones :-/

Desperation pricing.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by CMHM

So the trailer is done, they ordered the parts Thursday evening, got them this morning and I can pick it up in an hour. They called me and said they had to buy the parts from another shop, https://www.trailertech.net/ in Vegas, and each wheel (because I have the newest Dexter “Self Adjust”) comes to $501 a piece without the Airstream dealership markup, which is 80%. Plus 7h labor and he’s cutting that in half. So I guess I’m paying double retail mark-up because I’m far away from home and bleeding hotel money.
He said he’ll discuss the mark up with me when I get there, but these brakes better be ceramic racing car ones :-/

They are grossly overcharging for parts. Those brakes are about $130/each elsewhere - including whatever other Airstream dealers charge for their markup.

But, if they are getting you back on the road this quickly you're sort of over a barrel here.

After they successfully get things back together and give you back a fully functional trailer, I'd have a talk with the dealership's general manager to let them know what happened. Not sure it will change your bill, but most dealerships are aware of the social media coverage overcharge situations like this get and don't want to tank whatever reputation they have.

[David F]

[QUOTE=ROBERT CROSS;2559915]

Originally Posted by David F

Bob, why do you feel this way? I understand it is just your opinion, but in my opinion wireless works really well. Never have I had a wireless connection issue. Occasionally, I have a grounding through the tongue/ball issue but that is not the controllers fault. And they either work or don’t and if they don’t, you know it because the controller shows/tells you that there is no connection (I.e. grounding issue…I really should remove the gorilla tape from the hitch…there to stop banging/rattling from the figment slop).[/QUOT

I'll explain it this way..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it 'til it is".
I see no benefit over what I've been using.
I can set the controller at the start of the trip and never have to adjust it again, regardless of road conditions or weather.


TETO

Bob
🇺🇸

Yep, agree. Feel the same way with my wireless controller...it just works every time. But, sometimes, the force adjustment gets inadvertently adjusted (too easily turn thumb wheel) so, i keep an eye on the applied force during braking. Sometimes after hard usage I have to turn down the force as the brakes get grabby (at slow speeds) when warm/hot.

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by CMHM

So the trailer is done, they ordered the parts Thursday evening, got them this morning and I can pick it up in an hour. They called me and said they had to buy the parts from another shop, https://www.trailertech.net/ in Vegas, and each wheel (because I have the newest Dexter “Self Adjust”) comes to $501 a piece without the Airstream dealership markup, which is 80%. Plus 7h labor and he’s cutting that in half. So I guess I’m paying double retail mark-up because I’m far away from home and bleeding hotel money.
He said he’ll discuss the mark up with me when I get there, but these brakes better be ceramic racing car ones :-/

Trailertech website shows the drum and brake assembly to total $311 for the set (drum + assembly) higher than Amazon or etrailer but not totally outrageous given the quick turn. Still a bunch less than $501. Hoping that the $501 includes the dealership markup. Otherwise each set costs $900 ($501 + 80%) in parts, or nearly a 200% markup over $311.

7 hours of labor?....hmmm

It is a funky pricing model but given the market, it's probably easy to get away with it.

I'd love to get the details of the invoice.

[tjdonahoe]

Mine cost $200 for 4 wheels…bought an extra set…..installed myself

[CMHM]

Ok here is the full update:

REPAIR:
They not only replaced the brakes, but the entire drum / hub. Two brakes were down to metal/metal and caused significant damage to the drums. They showed me those parts.

INVOICE/COST:
They bought the components for each wheel at $501. They bought both the brakes, which I think are around $100 each, and then the drum/hub. I have both the Nev-R-Adjust and the Never-Lube models, and from my basic research I think the price is Ok. On eTrailer I seem to get to an even higher price than I was given. They then applied a 40% mark-up on those, instead of 80%. So parts were $2,800, and labor at 5.5h at $179. So in total $3,800 plus tax.

WARRANTY:
They promised to submit it for warranty anyways, because I complained about two locking brakes from Day 1 when I picked up the trailer a year ago. They adjusted them a the dealership in January, then again in Jackson Center in May but the problem persisted.

HOW DO THEY FEEL?
I must have been doing 25k miles with a bad set of brakes, because the way these new brakes behave is completely new to me. It is a much smoother and gradual braking action, much more powerful the longer you stay on the brakes. I no longer have to adjust my gain all the time, I can use the same setting for traffic lights as well as freeways. I drove a total of 300 miles yesterday. When I arrived I used the IR thermometer as advised by you guys and the temps were all the same. I will continue to monitor them.

HOW TO SET GAIN? HELP
I would appreciate if you guys could describe to me how the braking sensation SHOULD feel. Because I am still puzzled by the gain / sensitivity settings on my brake controller.
My range of gain goes from 5-100, in steps of 5. These new brakes get me to stop in a safe range anywhere starting from 25 upwards. I have the ProPride hitch, so what I realized it that when the gain is below 45 I get a small push from the trailer when I start applying the brakes (which can be a little intimidating at first) but then the trailer brakes gradually kick in more and more and it feels fine.
At a setting from 45-55 that bump goes away, and anywhere above 65 I can feel a slight pull from the trailer and they release a split of a second later than the car does. In some strange way that always gives me a secure feeling when going downhill, but not sure how safe that is?
I would appreciate if you all could describe the braking sensation, because Curt suggests I should set it just below the point where the wheels dont lock up at 25mph. I could not get the brakes to lock up even at a setting of 95.

Appreciate all your help to get me through this experience, unfortunately I did not win anything at the slots in Vegas to make up for this huge bill, but at least I know I'll be safe.

[SlowPokePete]

Originally Posted by CMHM

HOW TO SET GAIN? HELP
I would appreciate if you guys could describe to me how the braking sensation SHOULD feel. Because I am still puzzled by the gain / sensitivity settings on my brake controller.
My range of gain goes from 5-100, in steps of 5. These new brakes get me to stop in a safe range anywhere starting from 25 upwards. I have the ProPride hitch, so what I realized it that when the gain is below 45 I get a small push from the trailer when I start applying the brakes (which can be a little intimidating at first) but then the trailer brakes gradually kick in more and more and it feels fine.
At a setting from 45-55 that bump goes away, and anywhere above 65 I can feel a slight pull from the trailer and they release a split of a second later than the car does. In some strange way that always gives me a secure feeling when going downhill, but not sure how safe that is?
I would appreciate if you all could describe the braking sensation, because Curt suggests I should set it just below the point where the wheels dont lock up at 25mph. I could not get the brakes to lock up even at a setting of 95.

Interested in this as well...

SPP