Building Airstream From Scratch - What would you do?

[AldeanFan]

For design/layout ideas look at Trilliums, Bolers and Scamp's.
They have great use of space, are a similar shape to the Airstream and about the same size as your trailer.

[truckasaurus]

Yup Yup. You can use the soft 470's (A) or the harder (AD) alloy rivets. It's a tricky choice here as you're engineering it yourself, but the AD's are a lot stronger than A's. Airstream uses A's for pretty much everything as I understand it but if you think a bit of extra durability wouldn't hurt such as in the front or rear hold down zones AD's might be prudent. The coating on all the rivets will come off very very easily, it's funny as it's there for it's anti corrosion properties and "we" want it off. The 3 1/2" straight set will be great. To assess the length you want add up the material thickness that you want to hold and add 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet to it.

[bass-o-matic]

Oh no!!! I have to do math! What is the world coming to!

[bass-o-matic]

Well, I always like to go with stronger. I assume they will take a little more skill to buck in?

The Harder ones?

[truckasaurus]

They are a little harder to buck not much; however they are also easier to drill out cleanly should you make a learning error. Rivets are super cheap so you could always buy some of both and experiment during the learning on scrap phase.

[bass-o-matic]

Whoooop!

OK, everything is coming in the mail. Once I learn to rivet properly I'll start building the frame. I'm not fooling around here!

My next challenge is C Channel though….

1. Don't I want long pieces? That's why the 10 footers sound tasty.

2. Not that I doubt you guys but $2.10 a foot is high? But, But,… it'll all be done and pretty.

I guess I could make an 10 foot break in my shop? Hmmm…. but by my calculations that might save make it 1.10 a foot… Hmmmm… I'm pondering.

Pondering.

[truckasaurus]

Is the C channel is just going around the floor like on an Airstream?

[bass-o-matic]

It sounds like in my situation I can use the C Channel for the entire frame.

Uprights, Baseplates, Joists, Window/Door headers… the woiks!

[truckasaurus]

ah, in that case I can see why you would want longer sections.

[bass-o-matic]

So, while I'm waiting for my riveting toys I have one design issue I can't solve in my head. I kinda want the shape of this Boles Aero. Look at the rear. The window would need to be installed at a "reverse" angle.

I have Jalousie windows that I was planning on using since they give good airflow. Won't they leak like sieves? The alternative would be to go with more of a Shasta rear end where they keep that surface flat and the angle forward for the window. See pic. 2.

a. How can I mount a Jalousie at that reverse angle? Would it look ok? Would it leak? What else could I go back there that would not leak?

[Aerowood]

I read that you wanted to just cut pie shapes out of the corner angle in order to make radius bends for the layout, I would suggest you invest in a shrinker and stretcher for these curves much stronger. The units from Harbor Frieght will work just fine.

[bass-o-matic]

I'm back! Weather was nasty. Wife had me doing house improvements. Anyhoo... Last year I bought $100 worth of 3/4 inch butyl putty tape from vTS. Sounds like I dont need any of that now. Right?

I'll be doing it all with tempro 635?

[bass-o-matic]

I guess I'll post new questions regarding my general build out here rather than start a new thread.

I got my U Channel from Crippen Sheet metal…. beautiful. Ready to put down the baseplates and bolt the deck to the metal trailer frame at the same time. Then I'll Cleco everything in place and rivet slowly but surely.

Question: I'm planning on bolting down the aluminum "base plates" and deck with 1/2inch Grade 5 hardware bolts with stainless steel washers and nylon locking bolts.

See any problem with that? With aluminum… I only need to watch out for galvanized right?

THanks

[bass-o-matic]

Oh, and another question. I'm getting a 100 tooth aluminum blade for my miter saw so I can make lovely clean cuts.

I read that it produces sharp little aluminum shavings. How much of an issue is this? I have a 3 year old … I mean should I setup a cutting room?

Thanks

[bass-o-matic]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I'll have a go. I'd stick with Universal head rivets. I do on my Airstream stuff as it's very close in appearance to brazier and modified brazier but also because it's readily available and the head is more forgiving. Doubly so on your project as there is no originality to keep up.

I'd also get 3/32" or #40 drill bits and Cleco. When you are building a new part you typically want to start with the smallest hole and end up with a perfect #30 to pop that 1/8" rivet in. Just to be more clear say you are making a patch or new skin, you do the layout and drill off at #40, assemble and cleco, check, drill to #30, disassemble, clean up and assemble, check, disassemble, seal and reassemble then rivet. Or something similar that works for you.

I'd also get the intermediate rivet length in 1/8" if that's what you expect to use most.

Hole deburring tools are nice but an old 1/4" drill bit stuffed in a file handle or wrapped up a ton of tape is just fine. Edge duburring tools are also nice but a smooth file is decent too.

The beehive spring is something I have loads of kicking around; I have never seen one used on a gun in aviation, ever. Everyone I have ever worked with has used shock cord tied in a loop at either end, one end over the handle one over the "snap" (snap is a rivet set). I'd say it would be fine in manufacturing to use a beehive if you were shooting just one size rivet and you didn't need to get in tight spots or if you felt the urge to pull the trigger when holding the gun in mid air….

So, just trying to answer you enquiry really but with your list you would also do just great with the addition of the smaller drill bit and clecos.

Separate note but I'd buy a $30 30" metal brake and some .032" aluminum and make my own C channel. It's handy to have for making other little stuff the only snag is you have to cut the aluminum into strips first; and if you do I'd suggest cutting against the grain so you bend against the grain, it'll turn out better and stronger.

Hey Truckasauraus. I Been practicing riveting... Got my first panel up with the smaller clecos .. But What is the downside of just going right to the 1/8th bit and clecos and rivets. I'm using .032 2024t3 and .040 C channel.

I'm guessing that it will be harder to keep the 1/8 bit on the snap line? Which is another question... I'm just drilling holes by hand... seem to be on the line pretty good. Is there some other way?

Thanks!

[truckasaurus]

I couldn't say specifically why it works better but it does result in a better overall job. It may be more to do with allowing the skin to sit better across the new holes and avoid rippling. In school we were taught to go #40, 1/8" then #30 which is a little overkill for a trailer project. If going straight to 30 is working for you I'd say go with what works :-)

[bass-o-matic]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I couldn't say specifically why it works better but it does result in a better overall job. It may be more to do with allowing the skin to sit better across the new holes and avoid rippling. In school we were taught to go #40, 1/8" then #30 which is a little overkill for a trailer project. If going straight to 30 is working for you I'd say go with what works :-)

Hey! I got my first panel up finally. Loads of fun and went real smooth.

I know at least one reason why you start with that tiny bit... cause it's real hard to get that 1/8" bit on target AND it really wants to wander. So thanks again for the advice! The rivet lines came out just fine doing them by hand with a snap line.

Question: I cleaned up the excess Trempro with a rag and mineral spirits after riveting. I guess this is OK. It seems ok. I don't suppose it would "ruin" the Trempro under the rivet? I imagine leaving the Trempro to dry on top of the rivet would be infinitely worse. Thoughts?

Couple pics. Don't fret over the curvy edge. Trim piece will smooth it all out.

Thanks!

[truckasaurus]

Looking good. Mineral spirits/ Varsol in a laundry spray bottle would be my choice too, albeit with a microfibre cloth if possible. I'm not a Vulkum expert by any means but if it was an aircraft sealant I'd do the same with ISO or MEK.

[bass-o-matic]

Hello.

My wife has a valid point. When can we tow it and camp in it even if it's not finished out? EG... is the aluminum shell strong enough or do we have to wait until the internal birch is up acting as part of the membrane structure?

I'd say I'm a few months from finishing the remaining 4 panels. I have to stop now and build a scaffold!

But it's feeling pretty solid even 70% done with the:

• .032 2024 walls and
• .040 struts.
• 16 inch centers
• Does not benefit from the airstream style curve (monocoque)

We are wondering... gee... once we get to THAT point... all the metal on... can we drop if off the jacks, put some trailer wiring on it and at least camp INSIDE it?

What do you think? Thanks!

[Wolfe]

the best way is use a center punch then A center drill then the drill.