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Old 10-15-2020, 12:40 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Bye View Post
I have a 25FBT with 180 watt solar and two Air Conditioners on order and would like to have the best electrical upgrade so I do not need to start making upgrades upon delivery. My dealer and airstream customer support are of no help and I do not know how to contact Airstream engineering for competent answers. I know nothing about electricity. It seems I will need an upgrade to a premium 2000 watt sine inverter (retail cost $200), a 2000 watt CONVERTER (retail cost $200) 2 gauge wiring on trailer, heavy gauge wiring to tow vehicle, modified monitor and dealer installed solar batteries with some type of sticker. (no one at the dealer or airstream knows anything about the POWER PLUS OPTION and what are the pros and cons.)
Some marketing from airstream says I am buying a 6 sleeping unit with 3 way refrigerator and others say 4 person with only two way refrigerator. Which is it?
Wisconsin Chuck
I sure wouldn’t get their older 180watt solar option, it’s very expensive for what it is and uses less than optimal parts. The Airstream Power Plus option is the best Airstream itself offers and it’s not bad. I don’t know the price, though. I think it’s a dealer installed option. If you can get the factory to do it I’d feel better than a dealer who gets to learn on the job with you as the first victim. I would be covered by the Airstream warranty.

You can do better than Power Plus with the kind of high end systems some of us have installed but installers who know how to do this are rare. GMFL on this forum is one. Lewster here is one. AM Solar in Oregon is another. Any change like this will all likely compromise your electrical warranty for what it’s worth.

Technically you can sleep six in your unit but it would be a miserable experience. Four is the practical max. I’m not sure what fridge they are shipping now in the GT. Older ones were 2-way gas/AC but they may be using the newer compressor fridges in the GT now. Those don’t run at all on propane.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:05 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by switz View Post
When using a male 50 amp plug pigtail with a 30amp power cable connection on the other end, only one of the 50 amp legs is connected. Joining the two 50 amp wires together would trip breakers
It is true that you can trip breakers at the pedestal if you draw more than the 30A can supply when using a 30A to 50A adapter. But they are wired so that both hot leads on the 50A are tied to the hot on the 30A. That is why everything (both sides of your 50A lines) work when your on an adapter. If you pull more than 30A then it will pop the breaker on the pedestal. Here is a picture of how they are wired.
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Old 10-17-2020, 06:05 PM   #43
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Just wanted to post an update. Got the trailer. It's really nice and was in very good shape. A few minor blemishes on things like trim glue seeping etc.. but overall in great shape. Need to get it out for a camping trip to really test everything.

I installed both of the micro-air soft starts today. The instructions from micro-air were exactly as I found the ACs. This is a 2021GT25FBT. There was a control board and a start capacitor just like the instructions call out. And they have everything setup for you to integrate the microair into that setup.

Hopefully the progressive surge protector and my equalizer hitch tomorrow.
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:58 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by TowmaterATX View Post
Just wanted to post an update. Got the trailer. It's really nice and was in very good shape. A few minor blemishes on things like trim glue seeping etc.. but overall in great shape. Need to get it out for a camping trip to really test everything.

I installed both of the micro-air soft starts today. The instructions from micro-air were exactly as I found the ACs. This is a 2021GT25FBT. There was a control board and a start capacitor just like the instructions call out. And they have everything setup for you to integrate the microair into that setup.

Hopefully the progressive surge protector and my equalizer hitch tomorrow.
Good to know, thanks for the update!
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Old 10-18-2020, 09:30 AM   #45
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Lightbulb You have another, easier option to reduce wiring losses. Wire 2x2 in series/parallel.

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Originally Posted by TowmaterATX View Post
Thanks. Once I get eyes on the trailer I'll figure out if pulling more wire makes sense. The panels I've been looking at are just over 20V and just under 5A at full power. So part of me thinks that a little bit of loss if they are all at 100% vs the potential for more loss in the more common case of partial shading with a series-parallel is a tradeoff that makes sense. But I hear you, if I can run the wires easily... no need to choose.
Instead of wiring all 4 panels in parallel, you can connect 2 panels to each other in series - and then wire the two series "strings" into the Airstream wiring as if they are each 40v panels. Your maximum current would then be 10A (at 40 volts), instead of 20A (at 20 Volts). Much less wiring loss, even with a substantial length of AWG-10 Solar Wire.
- - - -
You could go even more extreme, as I did, and wire ALL your panels as one series string. There would be just one "+" and one "-" wire into the airstream wiring, but it would be running at 80 volts, 5A maximum. I have done the 4 panels on my RV in that way (mine panels are not the same as yours, I have lower total voltage and slightly higher current.)

The chief disadvantage of "all-in-series" is that clouds on one or two panels will hurt the output of the entire group a lot more, than if they were in parallel. Your Victron can easily handle the V (disconnect) in all 3 configurations: 4 parallel, 2 parallel strings of 2 panels each, and all 4 panels in one series "string".
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Old 10-19-2020, 11:03 PM   #46
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Back to the DC/DC converter thing
We get 12-14 amps into the LiFePO4 battery bank.
This is a good thing over several hours of driving.
Our trailer fun time is in the winter when the days are short, the sun is very low in the sky and with luck some rain.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:48 AM   #47
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Using a DC/DC Charger is a nice addition. The 12/12-9 would work if you were going to just use the black (+) 10awg wire from the 7pin.
I used a 50A MasterVolt DC/DC Charger and ran 2AWG wire from the front of the truck to an Anderson Power Pole Plug and then ran 4AWG from another Anderson Plug to the charger inside the Trailer.
The MasterVolt Charger is programmed ( User Defined) to trigger ďONĒ when the input voltage is 13V for greater than 30Seconds And turn ďOFFĒ when the voltage drops to 12.7V.
Would the 12/12-9 that you're both referring to be the Victron Orion-Tr 12/12-9A (ORI121210110R)? And it would work to both somewhat charge LiFePO4 batteries off the regular 7-way trailer plug while driving as well as protect the TV charging system?
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Old 10-23-2020, 10:20 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by qwertyd10n View Post
Would the 12/12-9 that you're both referring to be the Victron Orion-Tr 12/12-9A (ORI121210110R)? And it would work to both somewhat charge LiFePO4 batteries off the regular 7-way trailer plug while driving as well as protect the TV charging system?
Yes, but itís a smal DC/DC Charger. There are much better and larger choices out there both from Victron and others from 30A-60A.
This will charge much faster than the 12/12-9 and protect the system all the same.
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Old 10-23-2020, 11:37 AM   #49
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Yes, but itís a smal DC/DC Charger. There are much better and larger choices out there both from Victron and others from 30A-60A.
This will charge much faster than the 12/12-9 and protect the system all the same.
Would you have a recommendation or suggestion on the biggest a person could go on the standard wiring in the 7-way trailer plug versus running a much beefier wire like you recounted earlier in this thread?
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Old 10-24-2020, 12:00 AM   #50
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Would you have a recommendation or suggestion on the biggest a person could go on the standard wiring in the 7-way trailer plug versus running a much beefier wire like you recounted earlier in this thread?
Itís very dependent on what your TV can provide. For example my 2019 F150 was huffing and puffing to get to 10amps.
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:52 AM   #51
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#10 gage stranded copper wire is rated for 30 amps. One could use #8 stranded copper wire that is rated 40 amps as the lead from the battery to the fuse block and then to the seven wire plug on the back of the tow vehicle. That would preclude any voltage drop to that point of the 30 amp power circuit. However, the usual wiring from that point onwards could be much smaller in diameter without making a custom pigtail to the 12Vdc power junction block inside the trailer.
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