 |
|
10-27-2009, 03:32 PM
|
#21
|
Rivet Master 
Currently Looking...
Pittsfield
, Maine
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,108
|
My solution has been very simple - and, so far, fairly effective. I just dab the few spots I have with my wife's clear "strengthening" nail polish ever so often. I rarely see any new spots so I'm probably just "lucky!"
__________________
Cracker
2003 GMC 3500 D/A, CC, LB, 4x4 and 2000 Airstream Excella 30. WBCCI 7074
|
|
|
10-27-2009, 05:58 PM
|
#22
|
Rivet Master 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJay
Like others - we have come to accept our growing colony of little white worms - and we pay attention to them in the same way - clean, apply Corrosion X, wait, clean and seal - but that doesn't mean we've become apathetic to the problem. We give many impromtu "tours" of our unit every year to wide-eyed admirers of the trailer - part of the tour now includes a visible inspection and frank discussion of Airstreams manufacturing problems. Our intention is not to discourage the purchase of an Airstream but rather to provide any potential buyer with a solid understanding of what it is they may be buying - the good and the bad - and what to look for when searching. We used to feel kinda proud that we might have been the tipping point for a new purchase - now we feel pride if we've given someone helpful information on making an informed choice.
In a world where quality is important and expectations are high it seems ironic that an American, indeed Global, icon is, at least for the time being, obviously running the other way.
Jay
|
Jay,
I haven't notices any of the white worms on our trailer yet, although we do have some corrosion on the battery compartment surrounds, taillight housings, door hinges and grab handle next to the door.
But I try to remain vigilant and watch for start of the filiform corrosion on panels. If/when I see it, I will try to keep it in check as best I can.
How does that Corrosion X product work? As I understand it, the
filiform "worms" travel from cut edges under the clearcoat. do you try to get the Corrosion X at the start point on teh cut edge and it wicks its way along the "tunnels?
I can sympathize with the originator of this post - I am a bit of a perfectionist and become obsessed with trying to keep things pristine.
The older I get the more I realize it is a mugs game - stuff happens and there is not a great deal you can do about it so you might as well accept it!!
Heck, I ain't very pristine any more!
Brian
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
|
|
|
10-27-2009, 08:15 PM
|
#23
|
Rivet Master 
2002 19' Bambi
Northwestern Ontario
, - on the backside of the map and just above the big green spot
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 819
|
Brian
Corrosion X is a product used extensively by the Aviation industry to control corrosion on aluminum aircraft. Information on their website can be found at:
http://www.corrosionx.com/products.html
My own use was based on recommendations by Airstream to myself and to others in an effort to stop filiform corrosion that has already started – but there are other products and methods that are extensively discussed in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142/corrosion-problems-with-new-airstreams-31743.html
Our current practice is to initially wash the trailer, let it dry, break the surface of any new corrosion, spray it with Corrosion X, leave it to penetrate for a couple of days, wipe off, clean and seal with wax. It will turn colour and darken if successful. When winterizing I will spray and leave the Corrosion X on over-winter till spring cleaning – don’t know whether this actually does anything but it makes me feel better ...
Other recommendations are to keep your trailer well waxed and sealed throughout the year – particularly the areas where the clear-coat may be disturbed and allow moisture to initiate corrosion under it – i.e. rivets, edges, stone chips etc.
Bottom line is be vigilante – catch it in its early stages – treat it – keep it small.
Good Luck,
Jay
__________________
Bambi - 2002 (The Toaster)
Pathfinder - 2009 (The Buggy)
"I'm not young enough to know everything ....."
(Oscar Wilde)
|
|
|
10-28-2009, 12:11 AM
|
#24
|
Rivet Master 

2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,438
|
 Hi, my trailer also has a few spots of corrosion, but I'm using it anyway. Short story: My trailer sits outside, eight miles from ocean, and I never wax it. I ordered my trailer with the factory installed belt moulding because we think it looks better with one. At the time I knew nothing about corrosion. Now I know that there is little or nothing I can do about it.
(1.) Snow, Ice, and road grime.
(2.) Icesicles.
(3.) Ashes from local California fires.
(4.) Bug collection from trip.
(5.) Washed, but never waxed and parked until next trip.
(6.) Notice the reflections on the side. Still shines like new.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
|
|
|
10-28-2009, 12:43 AM
|
#25
|
4 Rivet Member 
Currently Looking...
San Diego
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 331
|
Bob: On photos 3 and 4 may suggest you get a Kleenex and clean the lens of your camera.
Randy
|
|
|
10-28-2009, 07:45 AM
|
#26
|
Rivet Master 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJay
Brian
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]Our current practice is to initially wash the trailer, let it dry, break the surface of any new corrosion, spray it with Corrosion X, leave it to penetrate for a couple of days, wipe off, clean and seal with wax. It will turn colour and darken if successful.
Good Luck,
Jay
|
Jay,
Not sure if I understand correctly what is implied when you talk about "breaking the surface."
For example, if you were to find a new filiform "track" maybe 1/2" long coming out from a rivet, are you saying you would scratch or cut thru the clearcoat with an exacto knife or similar for the full length of the filiform track in order to let the Corrosion X get at it?
Thanks ................ Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
|
|
|
10-28-2009, 11:10 AM
|
#27
|
Rivet Master 
2002 19' Bambi
Northwestern Ontario
, - on the backside of the map and just above the big green spot
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 819
|
Brian,
That's exactly right. Scratch through the clear coat with an exacto knife - kinda scary. Filiform Corrosion is beneath the clearcoat and access needs to be provided for the Corrosion X to penetrate. Others can chime in here - but that is my understanding and has become the routine. My first Corrosion X "therapy" was carried out without doing this painful little step - and the worms just kept on growing.
Hope it works for you - but would encourage you to do more research - there are a lot more folks on this forum much more knowledgeable than I on this subject.
Really nice bike .....
Jay
__________________
Bambi - 2002 (The Toaster)
Pathfinder - 2009 (The Buggy)
"I'm not young enough to know everything ....."
(Oscar Wilde)
|
|
|
 |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|