Jacking points and jack options: Motorhome 325

[Shinytoaster]

Hi - I'm very sorry if this is a repeat, I have spent 30 minutes going cross eyed looking through search results and not having much luck.

I'm about to start the repair of the rear air suspension on my 325 so will be needing to lift her up and be safe.

I have a Pair of 10 ton axle stands so happy with those (10 ton Sunex 1310) but would like some advice on jacks and and what/were to position for the lift.

I was hoping to get a trolley jack but the price shoots up after the 4 ton harbor freight (or other) versions, a 5 ton has a bit more capacity (BIG RED T80501 - $720). I'm somewhat temped here as that would do anything I would ever need and it's not huge.

The issue here is I would need to lift from a single point - can I put a trolley jack under the diff and lift like I would in an older car?

The other option is two smaller (and significantly) cheaper bottle jacks and lifting somewhere off the chassis rails. I have a smaller 2 ton trolly jack so this new item would be mostly for the 325.

So - what have folks done and are there clear jacking points for the RV/tandem rear axle version of our money pits?

Thanks -
Pete

PS. Barn has concrete down so good-to-go

[bkahler]

The best thing I've found to use is an air over hydraulic bottle jack. I use a 20 ton jack that has made life so much easier. I feel it's worth every penny.

Years ago I replaced the rear air bags on my 310 and the main thing I was concerned about was the chassis. I blocked it up securely such that it couldn't move at all. If I remember right I had the chassis as high as it would go and let the rear axle hang dangle. This was the first time I'd ever worked under a large vehicle and needless to say I was just bit paranoid about that fact

[Shinytoaster]

Thanks - I was looking at those and wasn't sure how much air I needed (or how reliable the pressure needed to be).

I purchased a Kobalt air compressor (Quiet Tech 26-Gallon Model #3332644) which I should have returned as the pressure set is terrible - would something like that work for the air/hydraulic jack?

Originally Posted by bkahler

The best thing I've found to use is an air over hydraulic bottle jack. I use a 20 ton jack that has made life so much easier. I feel it's worth every penny.

Years ago I replaced the rear air bags on my 310 and the main thing I was concerned about was the chassis. I blocked it up securely such that it couldn't move at all. If I remember right I had the chassis as high as it would go and let the rear axle hang dangle. This was the first time I'd ever worked under a large vehicle and needless to say I was just bit paranoid about that fact

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Shinytoaster

Thanks - I was looking at those and wasn't sure how much air I needed (or how reliable the pressure needed to be).

I purchased a Kobalt air compressor (Quiet Tech 26-Gallon Model #3332644) which I should have returned as the pressure set is terrible - would something like that work for the air/hydraulic jack?

I think my typical line pressure is around 110 to 120 psi but I don't know how much would be required for lifting the rear of a 325. My guess is maybe 50 to 60 psi.

The pump doesn't use a lot of volume, it just needs the pressure to operate properly.

[LM782]

Find strong points on the frame. Generally speaking, that means relatively close to where the suspension attaches. I attempted to lift the back of our 345 at the frame C channel and it wouldn’t hold.

Luis

[Shinytoaster]

Well, I thought I'd give the 4 ton Harbor Freight trolley jack a go... worked well.. I didn't leave it up on the jack for long before the axle stands went in... but for 5 minutes or so the back end of the 325 was way up there.

Lifted from the diff.. seems fine, and put the axle stands just behind the tag axle a smidge before the start of the rear sub frame.

Yay!!