Back Window

[huskygeorge]

I have a 67' Airstream Overlander missing a back window. Anyone know where I can get one?

I just got this Airstream and I am new to all of this. I'm looking to restore it

[kevinb]

I think inlandrv.com may have it. but it will be thicker (1/8") than your original glass. Do you still have the frame and operator parts?

Kevin

[Melody Ranch]

The glass is flat. The window operators are an almost impossible replacement part. 1/8 inch glass...tempered if possible...available at any glass shop.

[68 TWind]

Like Kevin said, the new glass is 1/8 the old was 3/32. I have replaced all the glass in my 68 and the rear glass twice (thank you to my wife for giving me the chance to install it again=ha). I am assuming you have the frame and hardware, because like Melody R. states, the closing mechanisms that hold the glass in at the bottom area like gold and about as hard to find. If you have all the hardware any good glass shop can cut the glass, they can get tempered too. MAKE SURE, you check the measurement of the front window and get one exactly the same size. Also, when you pick the glass up measure it before you leave the glass shop. After my first rear glass broke I got a replacement. I spent all morning removing the sealer and installing the new glass into the glass bar only to find that the shop had cut it about 1/2 too wide. Guess I can say I have installed rear glass 3 times. If you have any questions on "tips and tricks" when you get to the install stage send me a PM, I can save you some time and headaches.

[huskygeorge]

Thank you everyone for the info!

I'm not sure what hardware is left.

I have to get 2 tires put on so I can move it from where its been sitting for 30 years, then fog the heck out it to kill the bugs. As soon as I opened the door yesterday, a scorpion was on the door frame!

[kevinb]

The story Bruce just told makes a case for inland rv,but probably cheaper at a glass shop. Bruce may help with this question,but you should also have rounded safety corners/edges (since 67 did not have ss trim.) and I don't know if that is an extra cost.

George just ignore the 2 pessimists I can get you a window operator. (Bruce if you ever need one I got you covered too)

Definitely call Bruce he was a big help to me.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

Like Kevin said, the new glass is 1/8 the old was 3/32. I have replaced all the glass in my 68 and the rear glass twice (thank you to my wife for giving me the chance to install it again=ha). I am assuming you have the frame and hardware, because like Melody R. states, the closing mechanisms that hold the glass in at the bottom area like gold and about as hard to find. If you have all the hardware any good glass shop can cut the glass, they can get tempered too. MAKE SURE, you check the measurement of the front window and get one exactly the same size. Also, when you pick the glass up measure it before you leave the glass shop. After my first rear glass broke I got a replacement. I spent all morning removing the sealer and installing the new glass into the glass bar only to find that the shop had cut it about 1/2 too wide. Guess I can say I have installed rear glass 3 times. If you have any questions on "tips and tricks" when you get to the install stage send me a PM, I can save you some time and headaches.

The original 66, 67 and 68 windows were .118 inches thick.

We had them made to .125 inches thick, through Airstream, which assured that the contour was exactly the same as the original glass.

The 66 hinge is different which requires opening the channel, which is easy to do with a drill bit.

The 67 and 68 hinges are in 2 pieces, making the replacement very easy.

Andy

[68 TWind]

To add to what Andy said. Easy is a relative term. No you don' need to open the channel with a drill bit, but hard part is getting the old aluminum parts that hold glass clean of all the old adhesive. It is not hard but is very time consuming to get the surfaces really clean. Also, depending on if some other PO had replaced the window before, getting the two pieces apart can be a real bear. I found that a heat gun was the ticket. DO NOT pry on the ends of the with a screwdriver to try and separate them, they will bend. Take your time and gently work them apart and use some heat to soften the old funky adhesives. I found that the best way to clean the old parts after you have them separated it to use a scotch-brite bob on a Dremel tool (HD sells them). This will get the old gunk and not harm the little striations that are in the frame that helps secure the glass. Don't use it on the outside just the inside surfaces that clamp the glass.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

To add to what Andy said. Easy is a relative term. No you don' need to open the channel with a drill bit, but hard part is getting the old aluminum parts that hold glass clean of all the old adhesive. It is not hard but is very time consuming to get the surfaces really clean. Also, depending on if some other PO had replaced the window before, getting the two pieces apart can be a real bear. I found that a heat gun was the ticket. DO NOT pry on the ends of the with a screwdriver to try and separate them, they will bend. Take your time and gently work them apart and use some heat to soften the old funky adhesives. I found that the best way to clean the old parts after you have them separated it to use a scotch-brite bob on a Dremel tool (HD sells them). This will get the old gunk and not harm the little striations that are in the frame that helps secure the glass. Don't use it on the outside just the inside surfaces that clamp the glass.

Bruce.

Sorry, but the 1966 window channel "must" be opened with a 9/64 th drill bit.

If not, our glass will not go in the channel.

The 1966 window hinge/channel is one piece.

The 67 and 68 hinge/channel are two pieces (clamp), and do come apart therefore the additional thickness of the glass makes no difference.

Andy