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Old 11-13-2005, 05:07 PM   #1
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Working on top need help.

Help!!!! We were working on the trailor today resealing from the bottom up. I got the idea to climb up on the ladder to take a look at the top. Oh my gosh it has about 5 coats of everykind of caulk, silicon, and other funky looking stuff. What is the best way to get on the top so I can redo all the junk? Also
what is the best way to strip all that junk so we can redo?
Last night we had a terrible storm come through heavy heavy rain and the only leak we found was from the second vent the dome is cracked, where do we get replacement domes? And one more question the ac shroud is faded but in good shape has anyone painted one and if so how did it turn out?


Thanks for the advice,
Becky
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:53 PM   #2
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Becky,
I borrowed scaffolding and then ran two 2X4's from the scaffolding to the top of the trailer. I put them on the ribs so that I did not dent the trailer top. I then layed a sheet of plywood on top of the 2X4's so that I could do caulk work around the vents. If I had one more side I could have put another set of scaffolding on the other side of the trailer and run 2X6's across so that I did not touch the top of the trailer.

I removed the Armstrong AC shroud using the same method as above. It had one inch cracks at two of the corners so I used JB Weld on both sides, sanded after it dried and then sprayed with Krylon white enamel. It turned out great.
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Old 11-15-2005, 10:46 PM   #3
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Just up there this past weekend...

Hi Becky,

I spent some time on the top of my Safari this past weekend and didn't use any scaffolding to seal up my vents with vulkeum. I placed a ladder up to the side, padding the area that the top came in contact with my coach staying on the ribbed areas (you can tell where these are by the rivet lines). I was able to carefully crawl onto the roof by also sticking to the ribbed areas. You can sample an area before you put any weight on it with your hand first - it's easy to see whether it's a firm place or not. I had no problems at all and got everything sealed up (keeping leaves and acorns from sticking was another issue entirely!) I only weigh 125, but I seem to remember other posts saying you can do it without scaffolding. Check the archives out...maybe search for vent or roof repair and see what pops up. Good luck, Diane
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Old 11-17-2005, 08:52 PM   #4
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I also did not use any scaffolding to access my roof. I installed 3 new Fantastic fans and removed/ reinstalled my air conditioner cover. I have a folding metal ladder that I leaned up against the side to get up. I used some of the foam wrap-around pipe insulation to cushion where the ladder leaned against the side of the trailer. I definitely believe what Andy says about walking on the trailer as far as the load bearing issue but I found that I needed to spend time on my knees to reach things. I bought some knee pads that were soft and flexible at Home Depot for something like $16.00. They were perfect for the job and they grip the surface nicely too. By the way at the time I was doing the work I weighed in at around 235lbs (I have lost some weight since then) and found that as long as I was carefull where I put my knees that all was fine. Keep in mind that things will roll off the top if you don't set them down near the middle of the trailer.

My AC cover was dingy and had some cracks in it too. Check out the following thread for some discussion of AC shroud repairs:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...eas-13372.html

Malcolm
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Old 11-17-2005, 09:27 PM   #5
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Unfortunately I have had to access my roof quite a bit...I usually use an eight foot step ladder and lean it against a rolled up awning. Wear boat shoes (non skid soles) and stay on the ribs as much as possible.And absolutely stay off the endcaps. If I need to spend any amount of time up there I will get a piece of carpet pad or thin foam cushion to sit or kneel on. It helps to have an assistant to fetch things you need while you are up there, like the scraper that just slid off and the occasional cold beer...funny never had one of THOSE roll off

Aaron
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:11 PM   #6
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Good advice

Thanks folks for all the info we are starting the roof this weekend. We had 2 major rain storms blow in this last weekend and we got most of the rain in our hallway below the a/c so we have to get it done now. Anyway the leak did little harm except wet carpet and we now have that taken care of. SO this weekend you will find us up on the top.

Thanks,
The Lacy's
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:33 PM   #7
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I was just up there today, nice view. I agree with moogie and andy(inland), I placed a ladder on the side of the trailer and climbed up. Andy suggest place the ladder on the drip cap? I did this and bent the cap. OOpps! Its best to stay on the "ribs" its a firmer area and less chance of denting the roof. Good luck.
Steve
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
where do we get replacement domes?
inland has them in smoke and milk white.

they are expensive but worth it in my opinion. they are made of heavy gauge material.

i got the white ones and find they allow plenty of light into the trailer.


john
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:04 AM   #9
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Dwight

If you are not a purist, flat ones can be fabricated from corrigated polycarbonate with a aluminum lip around the edge to prevent rain entry. I like mine. Give plenty of light and are bullet proof. Have good insulating quality also.
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:28 PM   #10
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Up on the Roof Top

I am up on the roof this weekend and appreciate the info. Although I hear that Alabama is in the south it has dropped below freezing here. I didn't see any reindeer but it is certainly cold enough for them. I expect that it may get up to 50 tomorrow. I got fantastic fan vents and would like to install them this weekend. I looked at the tube of Vulcum that I have and there is no temperature restrictions printed on the tube. Does anyone know, is there a certain temperature below which the chemical won't cure. Can this be done in the cold or should I wait for a La Nina or global warming?
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:34 PM   #11
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Dusty,
I checked my Data sheets for Tremco Vulkem, there is no listed minimum tempature, but from expeirence I would not attemt to apply it below 40 degrees. Also the colder it is the longer it will take to cure, at 75 degrees it cures tack free in 24 hours and continues to cure at the rate of 1/16" per day "The cure rate is reduced at lower tempatures and humidity"...never knew it was THAT slow

Aaron
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:17 PM   #12
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Soooo, the burning question remains. How to remove a sea of goop of every describable kind. I have heard acrylic razor blades (to prevent scarring the aluminum). I used a regular razor blade but applied 2 doses of skill and patience and managed to get a small baseball sized area of some kind of sealer off successfully.

What to do when there is a large area ? In another case, I had more to remove and the stuff that I was taking off (kinda rubbery and black but not silicone) came off with Methylene Chloride, it bubbles it off. It is found in chemical paint strippers. A common one is Jasco, but a word of warning - it does not feel good when you accidental get even microscopic specks of it on your skin. It feels like you are being stung by a horsefly.

Also, it is carcinogenic and should only be applied in the presence of an organic vapors, fitted respirator. Aside from this I have limited experience and was hoping someone had better or more appropriate methods for taking of dried on goop and caulks. I have a bad job of silicone to take off around some of my vents this spring or summer and was hoping for some help.

On behalf of the Lacy's.
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:41 PM   #13
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Unhappy Lung Cancer

Oh, no. I have been liberally applying JASCO with only a mask. Guess I will change to the respirator tomorrow and get a chest xray the following day. Thanks for the word of caution Jim. Is JASCO the way to go with the overdone goop that Vintage AS seem to acquire with age from their POs. Aaron thanks for the info on Vulkem. We are headed for a high of 60 which of course will be followed by rain tomorrow. Any problem using it several hours before the rain?
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Old 11-25-2005, 08:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dustyrhodes
Aaron thanks for the info on Vulkem. We are headed for a high of 60 which of course will be followed by rain tomorrow. Any problem using it several hours before the rain?
If you can protect it for 24+ hours it would be better, FWIW when I redid my Vista Views I taped a piece of plastic over them until a rainy spell passed. I use the aluminum tape with the release paper....Lowe's sells it...IIRC it is in the heat duct area.

Aaron
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