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wingfoot321 · 06-28-2003, 10:52 AM

I have a recently purchased 1987 29' Sovereign that was refinished at P&S in 2002 so the finished is in very good shape.

I read the various postings about maintenance with Vulkem or Parabond around vents, etc.

How do I get my 6 foot frame up to the top of a 12 foot trailer to do the work being discussed. What are you folks using? Do I just buy a big step ladder and try to lean over to reach vents, etc. Or do I build a counter balanced set of steps to get me up and out over the top?

I am interested in whatever you folks are doing. Thanks

thenewkid64 · 06-28-2003, 12:26 PM

Your best bet is a ladder. If you have an awning you can lean the ladder on the awning, but be sure to pad it with a towel.
If you do not have an awning, then you have to be a bit more creative. You want to attach a 2X4 to the ladder to span rhe ribs and pad the 2X4 so it will not scratch the finish. If you can use a regular ladder and lean go for it.

ALANSD · 07-04-2003, 01:38 PM

I got a green bull ladder, its 8 feet high and has a platform you can stand on to work from, very stabilized as it has extra wide stance. Best thing I have found for getting up around the top to wax,etc..

InsideOut · 07-04-2003, 02:31 PM

We've been using scaffolding made from some adjustable steel sawhorses and a couple of 2x12's screwed onto the sawhorses. It works great and gives you a large, stable work platform. We got the sawhorses at Home Depot for about $20 each...with the lumber, the whole thing was under $60.

InsideOut · 07-04-2003, 02:36 PM

And here it is in use...

Shari

Chas · 07-04-2003, 03:51 PM

You can usually reach almost far enough across to the center of the roof by being on a ladder or scaffolding but for some repairs or detail polishing you will need to actually get your body up on the roof. I made some padded walkboards to get on the roof of mine. I took a full sheet of 1/2" plywood and then glued carpet pad to one side of it, it will keep the roof from getting scratched up. Then I ripped the sheet into various widths, 12" to 18" and then cut them to lengths corresponding to the approximate roof rib spacings. They ended up being anywhere from 48" to 60" long, I have an assortment of them and just lay them down here or there, wherever I need to walk or kneel.

Chas

George Jr. · 07-04-2003, 06:12 PM

I haven't tried yet, but have been planning. What if......you rented two 12' step ladders and a 12' walk board. Seems you can move to any location.

Your thoughts.

InsideOut · 07-04-2003, 07:30 PM

As long as you stay off the curved end panels getting up on top isn't a problem.

Shari

lee · 07-04-2003, 08:31 PM

Obviously you are on the roof, beautiful pic, working on this beauty.

Questions:
Do you walk the ribs?

I'm 225 lbs , anybody know what the weight limit / sq inch or sq foot is . Or has anybody my size or larger walked the roof?.

Thanks

InsideOut · 07-04-2003, 08:42 PM

He doesn't really "walk" on top...just kinda scoot around on all fours & his butt. Sorry, I don't know the weight limit...but he weighs about 185 lbs....no problem. Just don't put point loads (like elbows, knees, etc.) in the center of the panels...they do flex, but if the weight is distributed evenly it doesn't damage anything. He was removing silicone & re-caulking with Vulkem when I snapped that shot.

Shari

Chas · 07-04-2003, 10:28 PM

So Shari,

What was that, looks like a camping/polishing trip there?

If so good idea, I have thought about dragging my cyclo along with me on the next outing.

Chas

InsideOut · 07-04-2003, 11:11 PM

Yep...it's pretty therapeutic, no distractions, up with the sun, keeps the polishing "goop" out of our yard, outdoor electrical, beautiful scenery, a lot cooler than at home...besides, we needed to finish the caulking before the afternoon thundershowers rolled in!

We were in La Veta, CO, the site of the Rocky Mountain VAC Rally with the planning committee over Memorial Day weekend...couple of us were working on our trailers..FUN!

Some campgrounds won't allow "maintenance" to be done on site though...this one didn't mind.

Shari

53flyingcloud · 07-05-2003, 05:05 AM

Shari

That doesn't look to be a Cyclo Polisher~!

Right?

InsideOut · 07-05-2003, 07:28 AM

Compounding first w/Nuvite "C"

Shari

flyfshr · 07-05-2003, 07:42 AM

OK Shari and/or Rob - tell me again about this compounding. Too hot here right now for any type of polishing but when it ever cools down I want to have all the materials I need to do it right. I know Rob told me at the Rocky Mountain rally while we were on the Open House but of course I didn't right it down. Is that a DeWalt?

That scaffolding looks like the way to go. At least for my 6' 4" 280 pound frame.

Brad

Chas · 07-05-2003, 08:54 AM

Unless your's has been polished before and within a few years it will need to be compounded first before being cyclo polished. I've been using a Porter-Cable variable speed compounder with the 3M wool velcro attached bonnets. Without compounding first you will not be able to get a true mirror finish by cycloing alone, somehow it conditions the aluminum getting you a better quality final finish. On my Overlander I started by stripping the clearcoat, then compounding with Nuvite "C", then G6, and finishing by cycloing with F7. It is plenty shiny for me but some people who want it mirror finish will move up to an even finer grade of Nuvite, such as "S". Check out the perfectpolish.com website, good pics and info there.

Chas

InsideOut · 07-05-2003, 12:02 PM

Basically...compounding is more aggressive. It "cuts through" & removes the scratches, corrosion & imperfections...but it leaves swirls. The Cyclo-Polisher then polishes the swirls out.

We have a Milwaulkee variable speed "polisher" for compounding. We too are refering to the Perfect Polish website for advice, except we are using a different compounder...Rob felt more comfortable with this style than the drill-style.

Shari

overlander76 · 07-05-2003, 10:16 PM

I too have wondered how this could be done. I used a 10 foot orchard ladder to work on my vents and it was a little scarry. It was hard to get in the center. I was wondering if a person could get some long studs and lay them down the length of the trailer and put some boards across them. Mine leaks bad if it rains hard and I have plenty of sealing to do myself. Surely someone has a better idea.

By the way what sealer are you using? I purchased a tube from Airstreamdreams.com and it's Vulcum #636. I see a story from Andy at Inland RV and it recomends something else? 631 I think?

Inland RV Center, In · 07-06-2003, 10:11 AM

We use and sell the "ONLY" vulkem that that Airstream factory uses, which is "616."

Getting on the roof and walking on it, does not hurt it in any way.
Don't jump up and down and you won't hurt a thing.

The factory does it, dealers do it. However, wear rubber soles, and don't do it if the roof is wet, as it becomes very slippery.

CAUTION. DO NOT WALK on the segments, EVER!!!!!

Andy

LowellN · 10-17-2004, 06:32 PM

Sorry, I'm kinda new and need to be sure I understand fully before getting on the roof. I ordered Sikaflex and ParrBond from Andy and have already spent the good part of the week-end sealing around the windows and Vista windows. I need to seal around the A/C, roof vents, and plumbing vents. I read the posts below, and just want to clarify what a segment is. I surely don't want to walk on them since Andy is so emphatic about telling me not too. So what is a segment???
Thanks,
Lowell