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09-23-2010, 04:06 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Can this wrap be fixed?
The pics below are from the street side, rear of my 1991 limited. The PO must have used the wrap between the bumper and the body to stand on because the sheet metal in bowed in and has created a gap of almost an inch at its widest point. It does not look like any H2O damage is involved with the flooring and I would like to fix/ repair this to keep it that way. I not a sheet metal worker so would have to buy a new piece or fix the one in place. Gettinig the current piece back to its original shape is not likely becasue the metal has been bent/ streached. A huge bead of vulkem is possible but ugly. What are other options? The curb side seems ok.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-23-2010, 06:02 PM
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#2
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Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
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Seems like a natural place to stand... are there supports underneath? If so, I'd be inclined to fit some aluminum diamond plate on top and pop rivet it to the existing surface. If you paint it to match, it will blend it pretty well.
- Bart
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09-23-2010, 07:52 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barts
Seems like a natural place to stand... are there supports underneath? If so, I'd be inclined to fit some aluminum diamond plate on top and pop rivet it to the existing surface. If you paint it to match, it will blend it pretty well.
- Bart
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Would you reccomend fitting the diamond plate to the body or sliding under the body (over the exisiting metal)? Caulk or not? Seems like a good solution
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-23-2010, 07:54 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barts
Seems like a natural place to stand... are there supports underneath? If so, I'd be inclined to fit some aluminum diamond plate on top and pop rivet it to the existing surface. If you paint it to match, it will blend it pretty well.
- Bart
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Forgot to mention, no supports underneath - just hollow trim
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-24-2010, 08:48 AM
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#5
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Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
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Hmmm... can you get at it from underneath?
- Bart
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09-24-2010, 10:29 AM
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#6
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ALUMINUM OBSSESSION
1993 34' Limited
Hamilton
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 159
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bumper panel
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave
The pics below are from the street side, rear of my 1991 limited. The PO must have used the wrap between the bumper and the body to stand on because the sheet metal in bowed in and has created a gap of almost an inch at its widest point. It does not look like any H2O damage is involved with the flooring and I would like to fix/ repair this to keep it that way. I not a sheet metal worker so would have to buy a new piece or fix the one in place. Gettinig the current piece back to its original shape is not likely becasue the metal has been bent/ streached. A huge bead of vulkem is possible but ugly. What are other options? The curb side seems ok.
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In order to remove the wrap ,i'm quite sure I took the bumper off.
There are 4 philip head screws to remove.(2 on each side) one on top ,one on the bottom. After you take the bumper off ,the panel will be more visible.
If I remember correctly there are a few revits to drill out. After that on the bottom of belly pan!!
You should be able to bend that panel back to shape and reinstall it, as I did. It wasn't that big of a job.
Hope this helps!!!
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09-24-2010, 07:51 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william Haym
In order to remove the wrap ,i'm quite sure I took the bumper off.
You should be able to bend that panel back to shape and reinstall it, as I did. It wasn't that big of a job.
Hope this helps!!!
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I did take the bumper off, drilled out a few PO rivets and sheetmetal screws and pulled the wrap off. What I found inside was a bunch of yellow egg-crate stuffed in there, I assume to help hold the shape. I also found some heavy surface rust on the frame and 4 telephone-like wires going nowhere. Pics of all this is below. After pulling the other (curb side) wrap off I found the same egg-crate and surface rust; no phone wires. IS the egg crate something AS would have put in there?? It was dry inside and the floor above was OK except for a small soft spot next the the frame. I intend to reinforce the wrap from inside, paint frame, and extend a bracket on the frame to add more support to the top of the wrap. I dont think caulking the seam is a good idea because if the water gets in it will just go to the bottom of the wrap area and drain out. Ill take some more pics. SHOULD the egg crate go back in??
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-25-2010, 11:27 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
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Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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Leave the foam out, it is just a sponge to hold moisture, I would also seal the top edge to keep water out as much as possible but do not seal the bottom. Moisture will find it;s way in and not sealing the bottom will allow drainage and airflow.
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09-25-2010, 06:18 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Leave the foam out, it is just a sponge to hold moisture, I would also seal the top edge to keep water out as much as possible but do not seal the bottom. Moisture will find it;s way in and not sealing the bottom will allow drainage and airflow.
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That makes sense - foam is gone. I did finish the reinforcement of the wrap by riveting 1/8 X 2 AL flat stock to the back of the wrap. I also ran angle iron accross the bottom of the frame to extend that same feature by 16" more than AS installed. This made the whole bottom of the wrap more rigid. I also made a bracket to support the top of the wrap. The AL reinforcment bar now sits on top of the bracket which adds even more rigidity on the top. Now I will order and use some black vulkem to fill the smalll and now even gap between the top of the wrap and the bottom of the body.... unless ther is a better caulk?? Pics are below.
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2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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