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Old 12-05-2003, 11:33 PM   #1
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wheels

Okay, guys, got a question my husband wants posted...... he wants to know what car or truck wheels are compatible to airstream? He thinks he is gonna go to a salvage yard or a buddy, and buy a set of mag wheels for the beastie! So he wants to know whether to look ford or chevy or whatever.
Thanks

Elizabeth
with her somewhat glazed-over husband of long standing, recently acquired 83 Excella, and two standard poodles
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Old 12-06-2003, 12:48 AM   #2
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Although I am sure you can find something, you have to understand that an RV could have different weight issues than a car or truck. For example, an axle system on an RV might be between 3000 to 6000lb rated (depending on the number of axles), where as a car or truck has a 3000 or 4000lb axle system.

That said, the wheel rim might also be subjected to more than the average car or truck tire. I'd research it better than just going to a junkyard. The last place you want to find out you've got an under rated rim/tire is on the road at 55 mph with a combined vehicle weight of approx 10,000lbs.
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Old 12-06-2003, 04:26 AM   #3
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before you go...

cedars

before you go shopping at the junkyard have your hubby take a look at this page, scroll down.

junkyard wheel

give fogdall's a call over in cedar falls. they are a airstream dealer, they are moving their business and cleaning house.

i saw a wheel for sale on their web page.

eric is correct, the wheels for your trailer need to have a higher rating than a "normal car rim"

wheels are something you do not want to cut corners on!

can you post some pictures of your generator set up?

john
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Old 12-06-2003, 07:01 AM   #4
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That happened to me on my Olds just recently and the wheel was balanced, etc......of course the wheel was 24 years old and has gone through about 22 years of these Chicago winters.......
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Old 12-06-2003, 08:33 AM   #5
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Wheels for Airstream

Greetings Elizabeth!

Welcome to the Forums!

I would urge your husband to reconsider using a salvage rim on the Airstream (IMHO). Most automotive and light truck wheels are engineered for little more than the expected GVWR of the vehicle to which they were fitted. Not only that, there is no way of knowing precisely what kind of environment a salvaged wheel has been subjected. Recently, I was trying to cut corners by installing salvaged wheels on my '75 Cadillac Eldorado tow vehicle - - after purchasing eight wheels with only one passing the thorough inspection of my mechanic - - I ended up going to a wheel specialist and ordering a set of new custom wheels - - an expensive process, but now I know that the wheels are true and capable of supporting the weight of my tow vehicle as well as the additional weight of the towed load.

Something else that I learned through this process was that many (but not all) of the styled wheels (both steel and aluminum) have weight ratings that max out at less than 2,300 pounds. The wheels that were ordered for my Cadillac tow vehicle have a weight rating of 3,600 pounds, and the shop indicated that they could also order a matching set to fit to my Airstream as well.

While I have never had a tire or wheel failure while towing my Airstream or Argosy; based upon reports in this Forum, it is something that doesn't give the same kind of warning as such a failure on the driven vehicle (such things as "thumping", bumping, shakes, etc.) meaning that expensive damage to the Airstream may result rather quickly in the event of a failure. Also, based on my recent experience with salvaged wheels on my Cadillac, even a wheel that appears physically fit may have enough bend or be enough out-of-true to result in significant vibrations - - and on an Airstream those vibrations could result in issues with popped rivets and dumped cabinet contents.

While they are far from as attractive as styled wheels, I had my wheel dealer install four new steel wheels rated for trailer service on my Overlander until I can afford to order new wheels of proper rating either through him or Airstream. I am treating the Overlanders vintage 1970s wheelcovers to a polish job as a stop-gap until the new styled wheels are a possibility.

Good luck with your upgrades!

Kevin
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Old 12-06-2003, 08:40 AM   #6
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Hub Caps are good enough for me. The half moon type (New) are routinely found on auction.
Dick
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Old 12-06-2003, 05:56 PM   #7
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When we bought our 2002 Classic was told by the dealer to pick up a 15" Chevy rim and mount a spare, he said a Alcoa rim/tire would run $400+ Cdn. Went to a tire dealer and found me a second hand rim and a new tire for around $130. They told me no problem with the rim being compatable. As a side comment I phoned Alcoa in the western US and they told me they did not make a 15" rim and I would have to get the # off the inside of the rim for them to match. I told them it was funny that I had a trailer sitting on 4 of their 15" rims if they didn't make them.
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Old 12-06-2003, 10:09 PM   #8
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I wont argue about whether you should or should not use a salvaged rim . But I will say this the last picture on the salvaged rim fantisy that shows the blued steel on the rims is a fake mock up . Ive worked steel for more than 50 years and steel if prepaired will turn blue like that rim ,only at les than 400 degrees. even that is to hot for a rim to get and be safe. if you want to put some mags on your air streem anything off of a Chevy or a ford or toyota or Isusu that is six bolt will fit. Most of these rims will have a rateing code on the rim . your local tire dealer can tell you which ones will take the strain. My chevy pickup will easily haul a ton in the bed, thats about 3 and a half tons gross weight or 1750 lbs per wheel. I would not be the least bit afraid to pull a trailer that weighed in at about six thousand five hundred with those wheels on it. of course I am not paying for any thing that happens to youre rig for doing that. Mac
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Old 12-07-2003, 11:41 AM   #9
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To each ones opinion.

Fake photo's I think is quite a severe accusation.

For those doubters, you may make an appointment to visit our facility, to personnaly inspect that wheel.

However, once you have inspected it and agree that it is "for real," you will be charged a fee of $100.00, that will be donated to a charity of that persons choice.

Life is funny. To some of us that are non believers, figure that may things are fake or phony, "until it happens to them."

Then, it becomes a different matter.

How sad, that some folks have to learn the hard way.

Andy
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Old 12-07-2003, 02:58 PM   #10
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Andy. I do not know where that little demonstration that you show about the junkyard rim came from. But I know for sure that the blue happened at around 400 degrees because that is where the blue color is formed on steel. the temperature could of gone much higher later. it isnt important to me. I didnt nessasarily think that you personaly made that mistake but it is your information I believe. sorry to offend you, but we are continualy bombarded by outright lies and information by advertisers whose only reason is to get more unknowledable people to buy there products . I fell that you serve a real need and a favour to the people that have Airstream trailers. and will probably buy some articals from you myself in the future. But please for the inteligent people that are your customers, keep things at least realistic. Mac
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Old 12-07-2003, 03:23 PM   #11
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Our concern, "always" is to inform the Airstream owner as well as a potential owner, with facts and documentation for their perusual.

These facts relate to things that should be done as well as sometimes, shouldn't be done.

It is up to that individual to learn from those of us that have taken the time to be helpful when we can and as we can.

In this case there exists a "fallacy" about junk yard and/or used wheels. It was our endeavor to document what happened, along with photos, that by the way are also in the possession of an insurance company, of assuming the quality of a part, with an unknown rating and/or history of use.

Just because it fits, means absolutely nothing.

We all understand that we must know as much as possible (specs included) about any part of anything mechanical that we may want to have a relationship with. To not do so, is inviting possible trouble.

We would not want to get into a serious relationship with a person that we did not know, and the same basically applies to "used parts."

Unfortunately, you can't divorce a used part, once it fails.

California attorneys love to make a used part seller, liable to every degree possible, should it fail. Some insurance companies are also denying coverage for used parts.

Andy
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Old 12-07-2003, 06:13 PM   #12
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All I can say is that I have seen discs turn red that have been so hot from braking.

To me it's not unusual under heavy braking conditions where the brakes get hot enough that 400 degrees could be reached. Also, if a brake sticks (not locked) and you are moving at 55 mph, I could easily see the friction create excessive heat that could exceed 400 degrees. As the metal components are attached, I could easily see the heat transfer to the rim.

Same holds true for bearings that are not properly maintained and can generate excessive heat although less that the brakes.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:37 AM   #13
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Used Wheels

Elizabeth,

I would have no hesitation with directing you to a RV wrecking yard. And if you are looking to save a buck or two I would highly recommend it. Hey everything on your trailer right now is used to some degree.

If you wanted to spend some time in looking at wheel weight ratings, specs and that kind of data. Have your husband find wheels that exceed the weight requirements needed for your trailer. And that would start with taking your Excella over the scales. (Which has many other benefits too. Towed load for tow vehicle ....) Then divide that need by 4 and multiply by 110% or 125%.

2600 # rated wheels can handle a static load of 10,400 #'s. And maybe a dynamic (moving) load of that weight too. At 2600 #'s that is an extreme over kill for my unit. .....And I don't care too much about the rating, cause I still have factory wheels.

So bottom line is get wheels that are designed for the job. Used ones???? OK Make sure they are for RV's and /or have a weight rating for your useage.

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Old 12-08-2003, 12:45 PM   #14
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Just to add to the responses, you will need a wheel with 2600# capacity and a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.

There a several wheel manufacturers that can provide the necessary wheels.

I personally like the steel wheels with "baby moons" on the older trailers, and the factory slotted mags on the 70's trailers.

I have a 50's, a 73 and 77 trailer. The 56 has steel with moons, the 73 the factory slotted aluminum mags, and the 77 steel with moons.


Tripp
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Old 12-08-2003, 01:33 PM   #15
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88-91 4wd FULL size blazers and Suburbans with the factory mags. They are 15x7. They should be rated 2500lb or better.

The rest of the 6 lug GM wheels that your going to find are 8 inches wide and they won't fit.

Also look at Toyota, Nissan and Isuzu trucks. I know Toyota runs the same 6x 5.5 lug pattern. I'm pretty sure Nissan and Isuzu do as well. Mitsubishi may as well.
Some of the late 80's SR5 Toy trucks will have some nice wheels with a good weight rating.

You Got to find 7 inch or under width.
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Old 12-08-2003, 02:43 PM   #16
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One of the issues that has not been mentioned here is the way that the rims on a trailer have side to side forces applied to them. This is more apparent at a low speed, but still is something to look at when looking at the design of the wheel.

The wheel was designed for an application. Is the application one that the wheel was designed for? The side to side stresses will always be applied when changing the trailer from a straight ahead movement to going around a corner. There is a tremendous stress that is placed on the rim as you swing the trailer. The only way I can envision placing that kind of stress on a normal car would to power slide thru every corner.

One thing I am a big advocate of, is safety first! Yes it may cost more, but when you have a failure and are stranded, or have damaged your trailer, you would gladly go back and pay the additional money if it would undo what has just transpired. I know I would. I try to think long term when it comes to this stuff, but thats me.
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:04 PM   #17
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Was at Jackson Center earlier this year - stayed at the campground. One of the Airstreams there was having his factory steel wheels replaced - due to wheel failure on more than one wheel. The centers came apart from the rim. Be very careful regarding the rating of the wheel - if Jackson Center can put on weak wheels, how do we know what to use??
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:56 PM   #18
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Any thing that is made can have defects. I have a friend who has snazzy aluminum garden hose holders. All because the factory Aluminum wheels on their 34 foot limited were cracking and leaking air. The wheel manufacturer had a bad batch. Airstream replaced them at no charge even though the coach was out of warranty. The hose holders are the wheels cut in half so that someone did not steal one and try to use it.
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Old 01-25-2004, 10:22 PM   #19
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This horse seems to have been beat pretty well, but one last question. Does this all apply to a '67 tandem axel tradewind? Wouldn't the weight be divided over 4 wheels? So maybe you wouldn't need as high a rating?

Also, there seems to be more room for the tires in the wheel well. But does the 7" rim still hold true.

Thanks, Bruce
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Old 01-26-2004, 02:53 AM   #20
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Wheels

While you folks are on the subject I need a wheel cover for my 1972 tradewind. Mine have the painted blue centers.

Thanks,
Mike
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