What is the right way to adjust sway bars

[toastie]

What is the right way to adjust my sway bars, how much tension should be applied.......I included a picture....

[pmclemore]

You'll get specific help here from folks who have exactly that type. But the short answer is that the trailer should end up level, and the hitch height of your tow vehicle should not change much. You can use the jack to raise the trailer when you are hooking up your chains, to keep you from straining too much.

Aside from that, I don't think I have ever seen a rig so clean and freshly painted. Looks Great!

Pat

[azflycaster]

Reese has several install files for their products at http://www.reeseprod.com/
Dual Cam sway control is at http://www.reeseprod.com/support/sup...dfs/N26002.pdf
and http://www.reeseprod.com/support/sup...fs/26000IN.pdf
Trunion style WD is at http://www.reeseprod.com/support/sup...fs/66006IN.pdf
the round style is at http://www.reeseprod.com/support/sup...fs/65509IN.pdf

Each style is different, only use the instructions that match your hitch!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by toastie

What is the right way to adjust my sway bars, how much tension should be applied.......I included a picture....

Normally, 5 chain links should be under stress, "IF".

1. The rating of the bar is correct for the tow vehicle/trailer combination.

2. The hitch has been properly installed.

A better answer can be given, only when the following information is available.

1. Year and length of the trailer.

2. The make and model of the tow vehicle.

3. The rating of the hitch bars.


Andy

[dwightdi]

Follow what Reese tells you. I usually setup my hitches so there is three links hanging so I have flexibility of adjusting the W/D load for changes in loading of the trailer and the TV. Proper setting of the links is a function how you set up the hitch as well as the trailer and how you typical how much and now you load your "junk" in it. You have a twin cam system and this system will be more effective if there is signifigant force and defection on the W/D bars.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

Follow what Reese tells you. I usually setup my hitches so there is three links hanging so I have flexibility of adjusting the W/D load for changes in loading of the trailer and the TV. Proper setting of the links is a function how you set up the hitch as well as the trailer and how you typical how much and now you load your "junk" in it. You have a twin cam system and this system will be more effective if there is signifigant force and defection on the W/D bars.

Never, ever, consider how many links are "hanging".

That's like saying, "You won't believe how many drinks, I DIDN'T DRINK"

Always, always, always, pay strict attention to how many links you have "UNDER STRESS". In that way, you will make sure you don't accidently put a twist in the chain, which will change the stress put on that bar.

How many links hanging is information that has zero value.

You will also find, sometimes, that the number of links from one side, are different from the other side.

Count the links under stress, and the twist that you may have made in that chain, only.

When the hitch rating is correct, and the hitch is properly installed, the Reese bars must bend a minimum of one inch, for the dual cam to be effective. Two inches is even better.

When the bend in the bars is minimal, the weight transfer and sway control, is also minimal.

The bars are tested for a 5 inch bend, so don't worry about breaking them. Worry instead on how to make the bars give you maximum performance.

Andy

[bhayden]

I've found my rig, '78 Argosy 24 pulled by a GMC Safari van tows MUCH better with the load on the WD bars set to where the vehicle is virtually level. A do agree with the part of the Reese instructions that say you should never transfer more of the load to the front than the rear (jacked up look on the TV). However, ours towed terrible with the Reese recommended 1" more sag measured at the rear wheel wells that the front. I think this is a function of the TV. Folks with pick-up trucks seem to do better with more load on the rear.

The hitch angle, set by adding washers to the pin on the back of the hitch head is crititcal. One link on the chain is a fairly big adjustment!. Also, make sure you start with the ball at the right height. The spec should be in your owners manual or I'm sure it's online somewhere.

You didn't say what the TV is but your trailer is pretty light. The greater the margin you have between trailer weight and towing capacity the less critical the WD setting becomes.

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Normally, 5 chain links should be under stress, "IF".

1. The rating of the bar is correct for the tow vehicle/trailer combination.

2. The hitch has been properly installed.

A better answer can be given, only when the following information is available.

1. Year and length of the trailer.

2. The make and model of the tow vehicle.

3. The rating of the hitch bars.

Andy

Andy
I have 1965 Caravel 17', my tow is a 2006 GMC Envoy, I don't know the rating of the hitch, but it look very heavey duty, I posted a picture of the hitch above, when I go to 3 links it looks like it wants to come off the 2" ball

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by toastie

Andy
I have 1965 Caravel 17', my tow is a 2006 GMC Envoy, I don't know the rating of the hitch, but it look very heavey duty, I posted a picture of the hitch above, when I go to 3 links it looks like it wants to come off the 2" ball

Contrary to your thoughts, the greater the bend in the bars, the more it pushes down on the ball.

Your say 3 links. Three links under stress, or dropped?

You must know the rating of the hitch bars.

Since you have a Reese, you can measure the width of the top of the bar as it goes into the trunnion.

If the bar is 1 inch wide then the rating with the dual cam sway control is 550 pounds.

If the bar is 1 1/8 inch wide, then the rating is 750 pounds.

If the bar is 1 1/4 inch wide, then the rating is 1000 pounds.

Which one do you have?

Andy

[bhayden]

I believe, don't have them infront of me right now, is there must me a minimum of five links under stress. Nothing wrong with one or two more if that gets the weight right but less will interfere with the proper functioning of the hitch.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by bhayden

I believe, don't have them infront of me right now, is there must me a minimum of five links under stress. Nothing wrong with one or two more if that gets the weight right but less will interfere with the proper functioning of the hitch.

But if you go beyond 5 links under stress, then you also reduce the ground clearance.

Andy

[toastie]

My bar is 1 1/8 wide

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by toastie

My bar is 1 1/8 wide

Way too much torsion bar for your rig.

Drop it to 550 pounds and that is the best that you can do, because of your tow vehilcle being heavy duty.

You probably have little to no bend in the bars. That being the case, your Reese hitch is not doing you much good at all.

You must have a minimum of one inch bend, in order for the dual cam to work properly.

Andy

[toastie]

So I need to buy new one at 500 pounds, if I run with the 1000 untill I get the 500 pounds should I set it using three links, that is what to old owner used.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by toastie

So I need to buy new one at 500 pounds, if I run with the 1000 untill I get the 500 pounds should I set it using three links, that is what to old owner used.

What the other owner used, has nothing to do with you.

If you reduce the number of links under stress, all you do is progressively reduce the effectiveness of the hitch.

How to properly use a load equalizing hitch, is no big secret. But the principles must not be viloated by he did, she did, they did, previous owner did, etc.

It's what you do, that is the real issue.

The same trailer, with different tow vehicles, usually requires a different setup.

What your neighbor does, has nothing to do with your rig.

Over hitching, is just as bad as under hitching.

Adding overload springs years ago, got many owners in accidents and trouble.

Today, almost the same thing is happening, because most owners insist on a heavy duty tow vehicle, plus using a 1000 or 1200 pound hitch. End result, is usually beating the trailer to death, as well as having, in the case of the Reese dual cam sway control, very little sway control because the bars are not bending adequately.

This has been posted a number of times, and is a proven formula for selecting a hitch rating, in order to pull most Airstream trailers.

Truck scales were also used to assist in this simple, but effective formula.

1000 pound rated bars should be used when using an older long wheel base car from years ago.

750 pound rated bars when the tow vehicle is 1/2 ton rated truck.

550 pound rated bars when the tow vehilcle is 3/4 ton rated. It is also wise to remove the overload leaf on the rear springs.

550 pound rated bars when the tow vehicle is 1 ton rated. Absolutely necessary to remove the overload leaf on the rear springs, and still "hope for the best".

The "huge" difference is caused by basic laws of Physics.

A flat fronted travel trailer, offers considerable wind resistance, therefore it is more difficult to tow at a high speed, but because of the wind resistance it has, you have a "built in" sway control.

In the case of an Airstream trailer, they offer very little wind resistance, because of their design. Therefore you "DO NOT" have the "built in" sway control. Accordingly, how you select the rigging, becomes extremely important. I have, on film, a record of towing a loaded 31 foot Airsteam trailer, at 115 miles per hour.

Using the above formula, developed over 35 years ago, will get you "on the money" or very close to it.

However, there are those that will argue against the above formula. They have been invited many times, to go do the homework, using different tow vehicles, different length Airstream trailers AND, using a truck scale.

Then, and only then, will they have "facts".

Opinions have little to do with the proper selection of the correct rated hitch.

Facts, proven facts, determined by research studies, tells it all.

The old insurance division of Airstream, Caravanner Insurance Company, and I, did that research in 1970.

In spite of being done 36 years ago, the formulas have yet, to be disproven. Argued yes, disproven, no.

But, again, to each his own. Some people go by the book, and some people have no use for a book. Education is great. It teaches us why we made the mistakes we did.

Andy

[Paul Mayeux]

If your tow vehicle is a GMC Envoy you might need the 750 lb (1-1/8")bars. That vehicle is not even rated as much as a 1/2 ton Suburban truck. Like Andy said, see how the bars deflect when under load.

[toastie]

Originally Posted by 62 Overlander

If your tow vehicle is a GMC Envoy you might need the 750 lb (1-1/8")bars. That vehicle is not even rated as much as a 1/2 ton Suburban truck. Like Andy said, see how the bars deflect when under load.

Thanks Overlander and also Andy, so with my system, if I get some deflection it is doing some good?, what would happen if I don't use the system at all, you must understand I'm new to this.....thanks again

[flynmike]

With my previous Airstream (87 29' Soverign) I had 1000# bars pulling it with my 3/4 Dodge Diesel....I couldn't figure out why I was popping interior rivets and then I read about Andy's work with hitches and that I was way OVER hitched.

I've got an 05 30' Classic now with a new Reese Dual Cam with 550# bars and man what a difference! It's HUGE....Everything rides better, steers sweet and handles nicer than any trailer I've towed in 30 + years of trailering.

Thanks again Andy, I really appreciate your help and advice.

MIke

[dwightdi]

The Envoy is trying to have an almost car like ride, so it has a lower spring rate in the back than a truck. Therefore, it will sink in the back if you put too much weight on the hitch. This means you are likely to need the 750 pound bars as mentioned above but can get by with the 1000 pound bars for a considerable period of time, as long as you have adequete force and deflection on the bars to keep the cams in contact. Should be no problem. Follow Reese's instructions and have the Envoy settle evenly in the front and the back (as measured on the bumpers) as they instruct. If you have established the proper ball height first and then set the ball lean back properly, you should have the proper setup. If you find you have the bars down too far (too many link under stress and few hanging free), then you will have to change the lean back setting of the ball. A competent dealer can do all this for you in less than an hour and it may be worth your peace of mine if you are not comfortable with the answers given here. Most people use the links hanging free way of looking at their hitches because it is easier to see and count. What really matters is whether the load on the bars properly transfer part of the trailer tongue weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle and they are sufficiently off the ground so they will not drag when you go over a bump.

[Paul Mayeux]

Originally Posted by toastie

Thanks Overlander and also Andy, so with my system, if I get some deflection it is doing some good?, what would happen if I don't use the system at all, you must understand I'm new to this.....thanks again

The deflection is what is making the system work. That's a visual indication that your w/d bars are doing their job.

Contrary to what others may say about how small and light the Caravel is, I've got one and I towed it home (about 400miles ) with no w/d hitch and I'd never do it again. I had a F250 (3/4 ton) truck and though I felt nothing in the truck, when I looked in my rear view mirror, with the curtains in the Airstream open so I could see traffic behind, I could tell it was swaying all over the place. My opinion - don't do it. You may travel 20 years and 100,000 miles with no incident, but it only takes that one special circumstance to ruin your day or worse.