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Old 08-12-2009, 04:29 PM   #15
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Used Hensley

Why don't you go by a CAT scale and see what your wpring bars are doing. I too think maybe you are setting them too tight. Remember, a perfectly set up hitch will have the same weight on every axle (all four that is two on the truck and two on the trailer). It will cost you less than 15 bucks.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:44 PM   #16
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Kent


You have another variable in the equation. Jacks have a built in limit switch at the top and bottom. If you had to manually lower the jack to keep it from blowing the breaker sound like the jack jammed mechanically before it reached the limit switch. That would blow a fuse. If you reach the limit switch in either direction you will hear a clicking sound as the motor continues to turn but no addition lift or lowering.
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:47 PM   #17
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I agree that the current hitch rigging may need adjustment (and that the TV has a stiff rear suspension). I, too, have a bad back and have always used the method above of being hitched and raising the tongue thusly. I don't recall it being any different on my father's Suburban, or any more difficult. My 3/4T Dodge diesel will no more "compress" with 1,000-lb hitch bars than yours, I would guess.

In the few days prior to installing a Hensley (these days I believe I would opt for the Pro Pride) I don't recall taking up the five links (or six, can't remember) as being onerous.


The problems of a too-stiff rear suspension are common enough that the OEM's now seem to accept 75% of the TW on the rear of the TV versus 2/3 forward onto the TV and 1/3 back onto the trailer axles. Lighter bars may be an answer. Certainly, cheaper than another hitch (which has the advantage of jack screws).

Pictures, too.

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Old 08-12-2009, 04:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginner View Post
Why don't you go by a CAT scale and see what your wpring bars are doing. I too think maybe you are setting them too tight. Remember, a perfectly set up hitch will have the same weight on every axle (all four that is two on the truck and two on the trailer). It will cost you less than 15 bucks.
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Sorry on this one but there is no equal relationship for the weight of the axles when the hitch is set up right. Yes you will see an increase in all axles when hitched but the amount per axle is a function of the length of the truck, the trailer, and the suspension system of both.
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginner View Post
Why don't you go by a CAT scale and see what your wpring bars are doing. I too think maybe you are setting them too tight. Remember, a perfectly set up hitch will have the same weight on every axle (all four that is two on the truck and two on the trailer). It will cost you less than 15 bucks.
Beginner
As equal as possible on both trailer axles....Not so much for the TV, front carries 140 to 400#s more with 1000# bars, depending on load.

no bars
str axle..3140#
drive......5280#
trlr.........7580#

bars set for loaded trlr.

str axle...3540#
drive axle....4900#
trlr.........7680#
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:44 AM   #20
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Welcome Back Chaplain

I lost my little brass bar somewhere. Probably drove off with it sitting on the bumper... sigh.

So I was looking around for something to use to snap my chains up with and noticed the BIG wrench I bought to tighten the ball with. One end is close ended and set at an angle. I used it and it's longer, at a better angle, and easier to lift than the bar ever was. It's really more like pushing it toward the center of the trailer rather than lifting. The wrench is a Wal-Mart cheapo, about $15, so I'm not worried about damaging it.

I'm imagining a gizmo for you Chaplain. Isn't it all a question of leverage - and using gravity to your advantage rather than fighting it? Imagine for a moment a longer bent pipe - shaped like a standard pry bar. Put the short bent end over the snap up point - with the long end going across the battery box to the opposite side. To snap the chain up lean forward and down on the bar, or put your knee on it or sit on it. (Gravity is our friend - and I've got a lot of gravity in my behind!)


Other Alternatives:
  1. Tell MRS. Chaplain that if Paula can do it so can she. Have her snap up the bars.
  2. Lighter bars or a different power jack could also help... And of course how high your power jack lifts could also be determined by what's under it too. (I'm either very creative or just nuts... and I don't examine that too closely!) I once got my trailer stuck in the mud and could not raise the jack because the big orange Lego I had under the jack sank rather than the tongue going up. In a moment of Divine inspiration (or just plain crazy) I grabbed a drywall bucket I keep in the bed of my truck for "stuff" and shoved it under one side of the tongue. Then I cranked UP my jack, leaving the whole front end of the trailer being supported by the bucket. IT WORKED and no one was more surprised than I was! I was then able to find a big six by six block of wood, cram it under the jack and lift the trailer enough to get it on the ball. If you set up your trailer so that your jack is almost bottomed out to get it level - via 8 or 10 inches of wood blocks, then you can lift it higher and lower the tension on the bar.
Good luck - you'll figure this out!

Paula
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:35 PM   #21
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The times I have to used the jack to full extension and still have to use the pry bar that came with our Equalizer is usually when the front of the truck is higher than the rear wheels. The bar with the Equalizer is fairly short, so it doesn't reach the ground and might work for you since I only use my arm muscles, but I don't know how the Reese works.

Sometimes when I have the jack at full extension it lifts the truck rear end so far, there is too much weight on it, and that's when I blow the fuse.

You may be able to have a welder fashion a bar that doesn't touch the ground and is longer for more leverage—that would be a lot cheaper than a Hensley or the competitor which costs less (can't remember the name maybe, Pro Pride?).

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Old 09-26-2009, 05:54 PM   #22
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Kent, I have some lifting limitations, too. I have a lift bar with a 45 degree bend in it near where it slides over the latchup arms. Here's a picture of what I have, the handle is toward the bottom of the picture:
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:30 PM   #23
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Chaplin Kent
I also like HowieE question using 3 links. I have the basic same set up as you only I have F350 . I use 6 links under tension. I have near the same weights on every axle, I don't believe its possible to get them exactly perfect. I use 550/600 lb bars Reese Straightline.
Please do as someone suggested. GO To the CAT Scales or any state certified scale at a grain elevator or recycleing place. Take the truck there first and weight the steering and then the whole thing and then the drive. Take those weights and then hook up and reweigh, using the same scale, the same direction. Make sure the TV and Trailer are loaded full of fuel and water and the stuff you will need for an average camping trip.
I think when I weighed mine it was
Steer = 4120
Drive = 4580
Trailer=5060
Total Gross
=13760 + or - a little
GET the correct weights and make the appropriate adjustments. You can not guess this one or measure it into what you want ,Scales are the answer.
We get a very nice ride for a 1 ton and I am sure the trailer is the same, cause we leave stuff on the table and galley counter and its always there when we arrive at our destination.
Roger
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