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Old 02-11-2011, 09:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mammab View Post
Just when turning -- quiet as a mouse when headed straight back....

Then if necessary you can loosen the WD, make the turn, and then tighten them again to back up the incline.

Rich the Viking
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:39 AM   #22
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Rich the Viking (or anyone), isn't backing up the incline (driveway steeper than roadway), with weight distribution bars tightened, putting a lot of bending forces on the A frame? With enough vertical angle, possibly enough to actually bend the A frame. I have been advised not do it.

Doug
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:53 PM   #23
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It's the same stress you put on it every time you pull into a driveway, and it may be necessary to keep from dragging the hitch on the driveway.

His driveway doesn't look as bad as a lot of gas stations I've been into.

Rich the Viking
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIKING
It's the same stress you put on it every time you pull into a driveway, and it may be necessary to keep from dragging the hitch on the driveway.

His driveway doesn't look as bad as a lot of gas stations I've been into.

Rich the Viking
I should have noted the incline is not so much although the tag wheels do touch the ground for about 3 seconds while backing up.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:47 PM   #25
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pin oaks?

JBinKC, I'm a horticulturist by trade, what's wrong with pin oaks? My tree of avoidance is the Blue Atlas Cedar. MPJ
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:38 AM   #26
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Could be a couple things

If you are using a DC, then a popping type of noise is normal when they are coming off center. Not to the level of getting the attention of the neighborhood.

If you have a Standard Sway control, either loosen it or take it off when backing.

I would check to make sure you have your spring bars greased on the side which goes into the hitch. When we first started out, I got sick of the greasy spring bars screwing up my cloths so I used the bars dry. It was a very very loud noise that got me looks through the entire camp ground. It sounds like you described. I did put lube once I figure out where the noise was coming from. Its a groaning crazy loud noise.

I solved all these problems and went to a Hensley hitch. Most people will comment how well this type of hitch tow. This is true but having to deal with a greasy ball and spring bars is as much or more of a reason for me. I use wax on the bar. No grease at all and no gloves. No noise either...
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:40 AM   #27
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Thanks so much for all of that. We upgraded our Explorer to an F350 and I was SURE we wouldn't have any noise after that -- wrong was I. Granted, it is not as loud but I think a quick grease on the spring bars will do the trick.
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:00 AM   #28
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We have an Equal-i-zer and on turns it will wake the dead with it's creaking a groaning. I have greased the bars and that helped some but still does it. Going through a campground at 11 pm, I am sure the once sleeping campers aren't too impressed with our AS as we slowly creak and moan by them. As was stated above, backing and towing straight it makes no noise, but slow turns are very noisey.
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:36 AM   #29
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Equal-i-zer hitch noise

Try Equal-i-zer's Sway Bracket Jackets. We had the same noise issues, but these took care of almost all of the noise. They really work great!
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:24 AM   #30
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Wow, the only restrictions that we have here in Oklahoma City as it relates to RV's in front is that it must be at least 10' away from the street....we just had to take the tape measure out and make sure that it was at least that distance (and for us it was within inches)!
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:03 PM   #31
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I asked this question to the Equal-i-zer web site and got this response.

Pap




Mike,

Glad to help you figure a quieter way to tow. I'll just point out that
some of this noise is due to the fact that the Equal-i-zer is a
friction-based hitch utilizing four positive friction areas to
successfully combat trailer sway. It's going to make some noise, but it
doesn't have to screech and groan as loudly as it probably is right now.

New hitches should be allowed a break-in period, which involves more
noise than usual. Typically this lasts one travel season (from Memorial
to Labor day). How long it takes your hitch to "break in" depends on the
weights you are towing, how often you tow, how far you tow, and how
frequently you make turns (as opposed to mostly straight driving on an
interstate). One way to help the hitch break in more quickly is to take
the Scenic byways -- you get to see some beautiful country while making
lots of turns that will help the sockets break-in their movement zones.

This breaking in may produce some small metal shavings (which is normal)
until the sockets and head seat together in a smooth, shiny rotational
path. After this break-in period, the noise should naturally be reduced.
During this time and throughout the life of your hitch, it is good to
lubricate the Hitch Head on the friction areas that contact each other,
as described in the Maintenance section of your Installation
Instructions. It not only helps to reduce the noise and flush out the
metal shavings, but is essential to prolonging the life of your hitch.
These two points of the 4-Point Sway Control are the most powerful for
stopping sway, and also make more noise than the other two points on the
L-Brackets.

For lubricating the Hitch Head, we recommend using our Equal-i-zer High
Performance Lubricant (4 oz. squeeze tube, part # 91-00-4250), sold for
$9.85 plus shipping. It is similar to axle or bearing grease (both work
fine as substitutes), but it is a higher-grade blend that cleans up
easier and has less odor. You can order this directly from us by phone,
through our Online Store, here:

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/newsto...=product_info&
products_id=52

or request it through your local Equal-i-zer dealer. Avoid using
spray-on lubrications or anything of thin or runny consistency, as they
won't hold up very long. Lubricating the hitch will not effectively work
against the metal-on-metal friction that your hitch utilizes to
effectively combat trailer sway.

Lubricating the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets and Spring Arms is
optional to reduce some noise, but is not necessary for the proper
function of the hitch. There are also a few drawbacks to lubricating
these areas. As you make turns, the grease will spread up and down the
spring arms as they slide through the brackets. Not only does this make
it messier when handling and storing the Spring Arms, this will also
become a concern over time as the grease begins to collect dirt and road
grit. If these areas are not regularly cleaned, the build-up of dirt may
cause increased noise and wear. If you choose to lubricate the
L-Brackets, then you should plan to clean them off regularly to prevent
dirt from collecting.

Rather than always lubricating the L-brackets, I recommend that you try
it for one trip, and see if you like how the hitch performs. If you like
it, I would actually recommend you buy our Sway Bracket Jackets. These
are a plastic accessory item for reducing the noise in a much cleaner
way. They are made of high-density polyethylene/nylon that is black in
color. They basically sit on the flat part of the L-bracket and the bars
rest on top of them. They don't require any drilling in your L-Brackets
or any hardware changes, so you can easily attach them to and remove
them from your current L-Brackets. These Sway Bracket Jackets are sold
as a pair for $19.95 plus shipping. They can be purchased by calling our
toll-free number listed below and asking for Customer Support, they can
be purchased from our Online Store here:

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/newsto...=product_info&
products_id=66

or you can request them through your local Equal-i-zer dealer.

Changing the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets to steel-on-plastic
does help reduce the noise, but that is because it is also reducing the
friction. This in turn reduces the sway control, so it is a trade off
for what is more important to you: maximum sway control or less noise.
If you want the full benefit of steel-on-steel friction for maximizing
sway control, it is better to let the Spring Arms contact the
L-Brackets. Those customers that use the Sway Bracket Jackets tell me
that they enjoy them, and don't notice a difference in handling, for the
most part. For that reason, I would say try lubricating the L-brackets
to see if you like the effect.

It should also be noted that you may hear one or two "bang" or "pop"
sounds during slow turns. This comes from the bars shifting side-to-side
as you turn. They will shift until contacting either the side of the
L-Bracket or the L-Pin that secures the bars to the brackets, depending
on which way you are turning. This sound will might be reduced or
removed when using the Sway Bracket Jackets or when lubricating the
L-Brackets. This is a normal sound for the hitch, and should not cause
concern.

Thanks,

Daniel Hicken
Customer Service Lead,
Progress, Mfg Inc.
1-800-478-5578

Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original” with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution / Fastway Trailer Products - Home


Message:
I have one of your hitches on my Ford F-250 and 30' Airstream. It works
well but sure makes alot of noise when driving slow and making turns. Is
thereanything I can do to lessen or stop all of this creaking and
moaning? It is especially embarrassing when driving slow through a
campground late at night. Thanks-

Mike

Progress Mfg, Inc., Equal-i-zer® Hitch - The “American Original” with 4-Point Sway Control™ and Weight Distribution
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:50 PM   #32
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I know this is probably too simple but I used to have the same problem. I noticed it especially when I backed up. What I did was tighten up the "L" brackets. They had some play in them and they would be pushed backward and forward and then when they wouldn't travel any farther (about 1/4") the bar would slip and make a bang noise. Each trip I make sure they are tight.

Randy Bowman
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