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Old 07-25-2013, 06:01 AM   #21
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2013 20' Flying Cloud
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I try to get a comparison between a carpenters level on the floor (both ways) and a smaller carpenters level on the freezer plate. The freezer plate reading is important but not if it is way different from the floor reading. There was a slight difference on our 2013 FC so I split the difference and installed the outside levels. Your head should always be at the top of the hill when sleeping and you don't want the bathroom or closet doors to constantly slam shut or full open the minute you let go of them. Finding a happy medium takes a little work sometimes but it is doable and well worth it. After pulling into your site you level side to side first with ramps or whatever you use for blocking, chock your wheels, unhitch then use the tongue jack for front to back leveling then lower the stabilizers.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:19 AM   #22
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I keep a carpenters level near the entry door. I use that to set the level on the trailer.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:03 AM   #23
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legos under the wheels for side to side and tongue jack for forward and aft. I use a carpenters level when I remember to put one on board. My interior is not done yet so I'm always removing my camping gear to work on it and forget to put the level back in. A easy replacement is to fill a glass of water almost to the top, put the glass on the floor and look at your new bubble level. If you fill the glass with your favorite beverage it my take several glasses to make sure your trailer is truly level. After several attempts it just doesn't matter anymore.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:33 AM   #24
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I have a level mounted by a lower corner of the front window. Its one of those large levels made with a curved plastic tube and has a large metal ball inside. See the link: Camco 25563 RV AccuLevel : Amazon.com : Automotive

Once I have the trailer positioned on a campsite, I can see from the driver's seat how far off of level the trailer is, side to side.

Sometimes backing in or pulling forward a little will do the trick, but if not, I can tell from experience by the position of the ball in that level what I will need under the trailer wheels, be that some 1x or 2x planks. I have a nice collection of leveling planks that I always travel with.

Lay those planks beside the trailer wheels on the low side, pull forward enough to get the planks into position and then back up onto them.

The level on the trailer also has a small bubble level that indicates front to back pitch. Once the trailer is disconnected from the truck you just use the power jack to get that level.

I make a final check with a small bubble level in the fridge.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:52 AM   #25
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I bought two sets of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AA4RWM

When I set up my dual cam hitch I leveled the trailer precisely with a 4' carpenters level.

Then I stuck the Hopkins levels on for future quick set up

Brad
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:50 AM   #26
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Two purposes to leveling.

1, Fridge level to function.
2, Not roll out of bed.

So I found a counter top that was the same as the freezer bottom and use that to check level.

First do side to side and then tune front to back with the jack.

You don't have to be exact on the precise button.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #27
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be careful pulling the tab after letting that beer roll around; you will waste alot of good beer."this BUD's on/for you"
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I was told to level the steel plate inside the freezer. The only thing important to be anywhere level in the trailer is the refrigerator. Once you have the refrigerator level - apply bubble levels outside.
Exactly
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:36 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
be careful pulling the tab after letting that beer roll around; you will waste alot of good beer."this BUD's on/for you"
Trick..



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Old 07-28-2013, 04:57 PM   #30
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Thanks everyone! After a week in Colorado and two different camp sites I got it figured out. Here's what I learned. With the right side low the water from the A/C drips out up high next to the awning. Instead of down the drain and out by the drivers wheel well. So Over all it was an easy fix to get things close enough. Since the outside is metal and all. I have mounted one level in the wood under the forward bed that can be seen only when the outside storage door is open. As for left and right I mounted the second level with the tape method across the rear of the black/gray water sheet metal cover. I don't really like it that low to the ground, but it works for now. For what we spent you would think levels would be a standard feature. As for the floor being different than the tongue and it being different than the counter top yea how nice.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:04 PM   #31
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I get it close, then loosen the mounting screws of the level, and adjust the level so the bubble is in the middle...
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:14 PM   #32
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I try to find a level spot side to side, if not, got the plastic level blocks and
a large level on the face of the trailer. Next, I installed a small bubble level
near the jack, that is set up to show that the fridge is level. My 38 year old Dometic
is pampered. I have really not found any correlation between that fridge and
any surface in the trailer as far as level goes.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:33 PM   #33
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I put the trailer in the driveway, then called up the bubble app on my iPhone and put the phone on the stove top. I then leveled the trailer to that using the tongue jack and a floor jack, then installed the stick on levels. If the stove top is level, everything else is close enough and when frying eggs they don't slide to one side of the pan.
I hate it when things slide to the edge of the pan when I am cooking.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #34
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I have come up with a new plan. I leave a small level on the floor in the curbside storage compartment- the one with the jack foot and wheel chicks. Up or down on the tongue jack until,it is level. This is what I did with out previous trailer as well.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
I think I'll use this technique...so what brand of baked beans do I need to buy? Lol
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:04 AM   #36
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I use a small level across the trailer tongue and the door entry. The test is whether cooking in a pan causes anything to move too far to one side. I don't worry over the fridge.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #37
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I agree with leveling the cooktop as the reference, everything else will be fine.

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Old 08-02-2013, 08:02 AM   #38
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We use a small carpenter's level on the rear bumper for side-to-side, and then place leggos under tires if necessary. For front-to-back , I put the level on the battery box, then I go inside the trailer and open the bathroom door. If it sits half open without moving, we're good.

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Old 08-02-2013, 08:46 AM   #39
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I see that most use the bathroom door (or shower door, in my case) as indication the Airstream is level enough. Once leveling is done, however, I was prone to over torqueing the stabilizing jacks, because they squeak if not 'tight'. I've given up trying to get rid of the squeaks, and just tighten to the bare minimum. The only thing I need now is a lock on the Tongue Jack switch so innocent neighbors can't mess with my careful level job.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:56 AM   #40
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I use a 12 volt DeWalt driver/drill to lower and raise Lucy's stabilizers. This gives me a consistent torque value. I don't believe that I have ever had anyone mess with my electric tongue jack.

Brian
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