Towing with a Pilot without an equalizer hitch

[aceflys]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Extra trailer tongue weight increases the stability of the trailer but decreases the handling and braking of the tow vehicle. That's why you need weight distribution, the best of both worlds.

doug

Note: He is towing a vintage GT. Not a much much heavier newer Airstream!

[MrUKToad]

Originally Posted by wncrasher

Whatever you may read on these forums, do not use an equalizing type hitch unless you have a body on frame type vehicle.

A unibody structure, like you'll find on these crossover SUV's, minivans, etc., cannot handle the stresses thru the structure that a WD hitch setup will induce.

That's a bit of a sweeping statement and one that shows a certain lack of knowledge about the pros and cons of unibody construction. Have a read of Doug's post above (#12), he has it right.

I've been towing for the past three years with a unibody TV and a nice flexible weight distribution system. Yes, the hitch has been beefed in the manner that Doug described but the low COG, wide stance and overall rigidity of the modern unibody make for a fine tow vehicle. There are plenty of us out there!

[DryFly]

I tow with a Ridgeline, 5000lb rated towing and 600lb tongue weight rating. My trailer weighs in at about 3500lbs loaded, and I make sure the tongue weight is under 400lbs. It's basically a Honda Pilot, slightly beefed up.
Two reasons the Honda doesn't like a WD set up: first, it's a unibody frame. Not that that's a bad thing, it's just not an historically accurate towing frame, so adjustments have to be made.
Second, the computer system in the Honda takes into consideration the weight of the tow as it moves and adjusts traction to each wheel as it goes.
Basically, I'm towing a 1972 trailer with a 2011 TV, not a 1972 TV. I'll follow the TV manufacturer's recommendations, and keep the weights way under the max. I keep the speed down to 60 mph, both hands on the wheel and my eyes on the road ahead.

[dkottum]

I thought the Ridgeline did have a frame, welded to and part of the unibody. That's quite different than the Pilot.

Does the Ridgeline owners manual state you should not use a load equalizing hitch?

doug

[Scouter Mike]

Well, if its any help I have almost the same set-up. We are towing a 1970 23' Safari with our 2010 Honda Pilot and are using a WD hitch. We are towing on the mountainous west coast and haven't had a problem so far. We have towed through the costal mountains and from Vancouver to San Francisco. We keep our total weight at the Pilots GVWR without any real compromise.

The WD hitch is definitely needed to keep the nose down on the Pilot.

If I find any problem I will add to this post.

Mike

[DryFly]

Originally Posted by dkottum

I thought the Ridgeline did have a frame, welded to and part of the unibody. That's quite different than the Pilot.

Does the Ridgeline owners manual state you should not use a load equalizing hitch?

doug

Well, the owners manual does state that an equalizer hitch, and looking on the Ridgeline forum it's based on a Pilot. But I think you may be right about the beefed up frames because of the difference in capacities. It does be e less towing capacity than an F150, or evens a Tacoma.

[skinzy]

This has been the most useful thread on this subject I have read. I think it is an important question as many people will have or buy smaller unibody vehicles in response to gas prices and will be towing light weight campers. So much of the decision to use a WD hitch has to be based on SUV warranty violations, knowledge and experience of local installing dealer and individual vehicles characteristics including computer stabilizing system. For me I will never violate manufactures requirements. Plus as a newbie, how is one to know if the local dealer has the actual knowledge and experience with your 2014 vehicle? Lots of life experience tells me there is a lot of BS out there. Probably another good idea is not to tow at your vehicle max rating to allow an adequate factor of safety...say 80% of max.

[Road Ruler]

Originally Posted by skinzy

Lots of life experience tells me there is a lot of BS out there.

Without a doubt. The hard part is learning what it BS and what is for real.

[srpuywa]

I have yet to install a a WD hitch on my 12 Chevy Silverado CC. It tows our FC19 without any issues so far and that has been in the Olympic and Cascade ranges here in WA.

[Ahab]

Originally Posted by dkottum

I thought the Ridgeline did have a frame, welded to and part of the unibody. That's quite different than the Pilot.

Does the Ridgeline owners manual state you should not use a load equalizing hitch?

doug

Yes, and I haven't. Yes, it is quite different. We have had no problems towing any of the mountain passes in the SW.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by srpuywa

I have yet to install a a WD hitch on my 12 Chevy Silverado CC. It tows our FC19 without any issues so far and that has been in the Olympic and Cascade ranges here in WA.

Try, for the sake of safety, riding in the very back of your Airstream, at 60 mph, for about 10 minutes.

See if your opinion changes.

Physics says it will.

Andy

[Stefrobrts]

Andy, I'm not sure what that would prove. Adding another 150 lbs to the very back of the trailer would completely change the experience of what the trailer normally tows like without the extra weight.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Stefrobrts

Andy, I'm not sure what that would prove. Adding another 150 lbs to the very back of the trailer would completely change the experience of what the trailer normally tows like without the extra weight.

Stephanie.

It's not the weight of the person, but it is where the person is standing or sitting.

The back end of the trailer, they will learn, oscillates back and forth. They cannot feel that in the drivers seat.

That oscillation, can suddenly and violently increase, and the loss of control quickly follows.

Just using a load equalizing hitch decreses that oscillation, and, is eliminated when using a good sway control.

Riding in the back end of the trailer, merely demonstrates to the owner, that indeed, they should not ever tow with just a ball.

Or, if they wish, continue on with a misbelief.

Once again, to each his own, but with the current state of the art of lawsuits, it's very easy to prove that towing with just a ball, is very unsafe.

Hello, liabilty.

Andy

[panheaddale]

It seems like the ones pushing WD hitches on unibody vehicles even after stated in manufacturers manuals not too are only Canadians, Inland Rv and Andy at Can-Am in Canada. It is illegal to use WD hitches in Europe, who's right?

[skinzy]

I called Audi directly (about my SQ5) and the person I talked with researched the subject. He called back today and said it would be no problem IF I installed an Audi brand hitch. It turns out this hitch includes electronics than alter engine and transmission performance that prevents burnout of both. Also WD hitch not to be used for similar reason. Thus using third party hitches to save money is a big mistake. I don't believe the "experts" understand this new technology. It pays to do your research!

[dkottum]

skinzy, Audi has no new technology here and the OEM hitch is just a common receiver. It is not part of the SQ5's electronic sway control, which has been around for some years.

The "third party hitch" referred to on this thread is a weight distribution hitch with integrated sway control, which Audi does not sell.

Although many people are able to successfully use (third party) w.d. hitches on unibody SUV's, many will also screw up installation, adjustment, and/or use, thereby bending or tearing the vehicle's receiver attachment. In other words, wreck the vehicle, lose the trailer, or both.

Manufacturer's won't risk it and who can blame them. Most buyer's use these vehicles for commuting smugly and occasionally pick up a new vacuum cleaner.

doug

[srpuywa]

If I ride in the back of my AS at 60 MPH who's going to drive

[Stefrobrts]

Originally Posted by panheaddale

It seems like the ones pushing WD hitches on unibody vehicles even after stated in manufacturers manuals not too are only Canadians, Inland Rv and Andy at Can-Am in Canada. It is illegal to use WD hitches in Europe, who's right?

I think that is the problem - there is no one who can say who is right, all we have to go on is personal experience. There is no overseeing body to determine what makes a tow vehicle safe, or what criteria a manufacturer uses when rating their vehicle's towing capacity. There is no overseeing body who can confirm that any hitch does what it claims for any particular tow vehicle/RV combination.

All we have to go on is suggested practices - get a vehicle with a long wheelbase, Stay under 80% of the tow rating, use a WD hitch, use sway control, and if anything happens, adjust it and try again. Kind of scary advice when you're talking about loss of control accidents!

You can't even compare Europe to the US because their trailers are setup to have very low tongue weights, and we are told to put more weight on the tongue for better handling. How does that work?

[skinzy]

Originally Posted by Stefrobrts

I think that is the problem - there is no one who can say who is right, all we have to go on is personal experience. There is no overseeing body to determine what makes a tow vehicle safe, or what criteria a manufacturer uses when rating their vehicle's towing capacity. There is no overseeing body who can confirm that any hitch does what it claims for any particular tow vehicle/RV combination.

All we have to go on is suggested practices - get a vehicle with a long wheelbase, Stay under 80% of the tow rating, use a WD hitch, use sway control, and if anything happens, adjust it and try again. Kind of scary advice when you're talking about loss of control accidents!

I agree except I will start out without a WD hitch as manufacturer recommends.

[Stefrobrts]

Originally Posted by skinzy

I agree except I will start out without a WD hitch as manufacturer recommends.

Makes sense to me.