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Freedomrider · 08-10-2012, 11:37 AM

Hi All.

I like the Ram Diesel 2500 and trying to educate myself without talking to a salesperson. I am very much interested in the 13's, but may not be able to wait until the first of the year. This would be my first diesel and plan to pull a 30' classic.

Could someone please explain what makes the 6.7L I6 Cummings Turbo Diesel Torque a: 800 lb.-ft. @ 1500 RPM or 610lb.-ft. @ 1400 RPM? Is it the gear ratio: 3:73 or 4:10, or is it something else?

I understand the gear ratio determines the towing capacity.

Also, if the Fuel Tank Capacity is 34 gals. and you get 5.5 additional Gallons of Diesel, what does that mean, a larger tank of 39 gals or does it mean something else?

Thanks for you input on these basic questions. Image what these question would probably signal to a salesperson.

Freedomrider

SteveH · 08-10-2012, 12:08 PM

I have no experience with that exact truck, but I will say about the torque question, that it normally goes up as RPM goes up, reaching a peak somewhere below max horsepower. They are simular, but seperate curves in engine performance. My '08 Duramax reaches max torque around 3000 RPM, and a gasoline engine will typically reach max torque around 4000 to 4500 RPM, but all these things vary with individual engines and from year to year.

RickDavis · 08-10-2012, 12:34 PM

You will have enough power to tow any Airtstream with out straining. The 3.73 axle is standard. No reason to even think about the 4.10.

I am going to guess, and it is nothing but that, that the 5.5 gallons of fuel may be the difference between a short bed and long bed tank size.
I will admit to no experience with the 2012 however my 99 Dodge Cummins has served me well for 567,000 miles and I have towed trailers much bigger and heavier than an Airstream with no problems.

Bill M. · 08-10-2012, 12:39 PM

We have a 2007 2500 with the 5.9 with 108000 miles on it. Not exactly sure what you are asking or what weight you want to tow. We have the 3.73 and for us it is a very good ratio. The engine seems to like 1600 to 1800 rpm a whole lot. With the auto and the 3.73 we go about 72 mph at 2000 rpm. So it is the torque that makes it work. We only tow either 6500 or 8000 lbs, the 2 airstreams in my signature. Both feel the same and neither has presented any problems towing. The truck you are looking at will tow any Airstream ever made with almost any gear ratio. The 411 would be more if you are looking at a seriously sized 5th wheel. I think the manual models are geared a little lower and actually do not get quite as good MPG running empty as the automatics.

One thing you have to get your head around here is that there is an abundance of smooth power with these engines. You do not have to be real picky about exact gearing unless you are towing north of 10 k or so.

The automatics have a tow/haul mode. The T/H does a lot of things that make towing easy and nice. Changes the shift points, I think firms up the shift by adjusting pressure in the trans, and downshifts on down slopes. Sometimes I run it in T/H even if not towing.

The fuel tank has a safety factor or chamber for fuel expansion. Fuel capacity is 34 gallons but it is possible to fill it up into the expansion area. I think somebody even sells a kit for that.

If you have not found it yet, the dodge diesel forum by vpower is a very good forum to pick up information and to ask questions from dodge diesel owners.

My friend has one of the new fords with the 6 speed auto. He is very happy with it. His 4th, I think, and the best of the bunch as far as he is concerned.

**DKB_SATX** · 08-10-2012, 01:22 PM

The specific difference you asked about, 610 lb-ft of torque vs. 800, is related to which transmission is installed.

According to their site, they only offer 610 lb-ft of torque (which is PLENTY) with the manual transmission, if you "need" 800 lb-ft you have to go with the automatic transmission.

My guess would be it's purely a matter of software, and you'll probably find somewhere out on enthusiast sites a group of people who reflash the software and make the trucks with manuals produce 800 lb-ft (or more) and a subgroup of THAT group whining after they've destroyed their transmissions and claiming it's all the evil corporation's fault for putting in a transmission that can't take more torque than the factory installed.

As to the inline-6 Cummins itself... my dad was a diesel mechanic for 40+ years. He loved the big-6 Cummins engines in trucks and other uses, and he bought a Dodge for his service truck when they put the 5.9l in it, and kept that truck until he quit working. He had great service from the engine with less-stellar results from the Dodge parts, but that was 3 or 4 versions ago so that's not directly applicable to the current trucks.

RUMSHIP · 08-10-2012, 06:13 PM

The 6.7 is the end all be all. Put in fuel, change the oil, and keep up the service intervals, it will be the last truck you will buy. The fuel question may be in reference to not running out of fuel. Your indicator will read empty, but you should have about 5 more gallons of fuel. They don't want you to run out of fuel, very bad, don't do it. Buy it and enjoy. Go automatic, way nicer than shifting. One last thing. That truck has 3 brake systems. 4 wheel disc, exhaust brake, and transmission brake. I tow a 32' and have to use the gas peddle just to keep the truck from stopping going down hills. Enjoy.

**GCinSC2** · 08-11-2012, 06:40 AM

Freedomrider,

Might want to look at www.turbodieselregister.com Dodge Ram Cummins only forum. You can get a trial membership and search and post to check it out. They print a 130 page magazine 4 time / year and it is a wealth of info on the forum. It is mostly a forum for understanding and getting good service out of your truck, not as much on look at how big my exhaust stack is.

Gary

Flying Gypsies · 08-11-2012, 07:23 AM

My wife and I spent 1 yr doing research on the truck that we would purchase. We drove every diesel on the market numerous times, and networked with every big truck person we could talk with. After reading the many truck reviews and beginning the elimination process, we had it narrowed down to a couple of diesels left. We went to truck repair shops who worked on all manufactures, we talked to folks who hauled horses around the country, we spoke with people that owned car haulers who hauled cars and trucks across the country. The one common thread in these conversations was the durability of the Cummins diesel. We purchased a 2010 Dodge 2500 4x4 quad cab Laramie with the all the bells and whistles. We use it to tow our 2006 31'Classic -- the truck and our airstream is the perfect combination. The only negative I might add,is that although it has a beautiful in-the-dash brake controller, it was only set up to work with electric brakes. Unfortunately, our airstream has the electric over hydraulic brakes and no matter what I did, I couldn't get the truck and AS to talk 100% of the time (sometimes no brakes or brakes when you didn't want it) so I had to install an after market brake controller. Some of the other truck manufacturers offered an option to change between electric and electric over hydraulic. Dodge did not offer this in 2010, maybe that has changed. That being said, I won't sell this truck if someone offered me more money right now than I paid for it. WE LOVE THIS TRUCK!

Freedomrider · 08-11-2012, 11:20 AM

Thanks all. This was the education I needed to come up speed and and do further in-depth research. I am soo appreciative for this forums' members who take their time in responding those of us who need to talk to someone who has actual experience on the topic. I am feeling much more comfortable about our choice concerning the engine and gear ratio. Also, I had no clue about the brake controller.

Flying Gypsies, the trailer brakes I believe we will get with our trailer is; 12" Electric Nev-R-Adjust Drum Brakes. Based on your post, is it correct to say that, I should not have this problem because there are no hydraulics involved in our trailer braking system, or is it?

Dodge 2012 2500 only says, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller with Display. This will be something I definitely will check into.

BTW, what after market brake controller did you purchase that worked so well?

Again thanks.

Flying Gypsies · 08-11-2012, 07:27 PM

If you have Electric brakes on the AS, you will be fine with the integrated brake controller on the Dodge. We went with the Tekonsha P3 brake controller which will allow for either Electric or Electric over hydraulic. Good luck and post pics!!!!

hickory · 08-11-2012, 08:55 PM

Our 2011 Dodge with factory brake controller works fine with electric over hyd. brakes.
Great truck to tow with, has diesel with factory engine brake I love it.
Hickory

Flying Gypsies · 08-12-2012, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hickory

Our 2011 Dodge with factory brake controller works fine with electric over hyd. brakes.
Great truck to tow with, has diesel with factory engine brake I love it.
Hickory

Looks like Dodge must have fixed the controller- maybe we will have to see if they can change ours out. We had to get it de-programmed from the EVIC before we could use the P3 as it would always be looking for it in the computer and set up error messages. Thanks for the info- will look into that....

Freedomrider · 08-12-2012, 01:48 PM

Thanks guys. It seems to get better all the time. We are about two months out before we start searching for the best deal on our trailer. Once that's done, we will order the truck right-away. We hoping to be able to hold out for the 2013 Ram 2500. Very disturbing news that their availability. Some say, as late as January 2013. Will definitely post when the time comes.

Thanks.

Flying Gypsies · 08-12-2012, 02:45 PM

Funny, but we found ours brand new on EBay from Oneal Dodge just west of Atlanta. Small business out in the middle of nowhere, but man, what an inventory! We thought that we drove a long way from North Central Florida until he showed us their map on the wall with pushpins in it all over the place- where other folks had travelled from just to buy from them. We couldn't touch their price anywhere else- and we even tried as far away as Texas. We told them that we would show up and wanted to be on the road in an hour, and wouldn't pay a penny over what we agreed to by email. They were true to their word, but we did stay a bit longer to get some pearls of wisdom from their ace mechanic. Check them out...http://www.jamesonealchryslerdodgejeep.com/index.htm Happy hunting!

slowmover · 08-12-2012, 06:29 PM

Bypass the 3/4 and go straight to 1T. There is no real difference while running solo (the overload leafs are not in contact the main springs when empty), and the additional payload may be welcomed with a big TT (the TW, even after WD adjustments) and loaded for fulltiming.

I have a 3/4T and would get the 1T were I to do it again. The 3/4T rating really is obsolete as there are 1/2T trucks with the same or higher payload capacities.

As a pickup is a badly compromised TV in the first place -- and a pickup is chosen only for payload capacity, in main -- get the one that can do the most.

Freedomrider · 08-13-2012, 07:49 AM

Thank you much, Flying Gypsies. You are soo right. There are more Longhorns on this lot than in the country. I know, I looked. This has educated me on pricing.

Freedomrider · 08-13-2012, 08:11 AM

REDNAX,

I think you are on to something. When I was looking at the 12 Ford 150 EcoBoost, it had a paylood almost equal to the Ram 2500. Experience from this forum states the the 2500 is a excellent match for the 30' classic and I have noticed that the price for the Ram 3500 is the same as the Ram 2500.

I just don't know what to think. I would like to explore this option to cover all bases, even if I eliminate it. We are looking at the 30' Classic @ 10,000 lbs. I like the idea of more towing capacity, but I read about concerns of the Ram 3500 may rough-up the Airstream because of the rigid frame and what about poor gas milage?

I would appreciate your opinion.

Thanks

**DKB_SATX** · 08-13-2012, 09:41 AM

If you're concerned about the "rough ride" thing for an Airstream towed by an HD truck, you can get an AirSafe hitch to smooth out the ride for the trailer at least.

Flying Gypsies · 08-13-2012, 07:26 PM

I can tell you that we towed our 30' classic up the mountain to Boone NC from Hickory ( if you haven't been that way, it is a pretty steep grade) and Passed people on the way up- never a power issue with our 2500 towing the classic. Hope this helps...

MegaWonder · 08-13-2012, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freedomrider

Thanks guys. It seems to get better all the time. We are about two months out before we start searching for the best deal on our trailer. Once that's done, we will order the truck right-away. We hoping to be able to hold out for the 2013 Ram 2500. Very disturbing news that their availability. Some say, as late as January 2013. Will definitely post when the time comes.

Thanks.

Hi Freedomrider,

I think I've read on another VERY good informative site. www.cumminsforum.com that the '12 model year will be produced through Decemember '12.
I think many have speculated (mechanics getting training for it for future model ? but nothing official from Chrysler yet that I am aware) ...and are pretty certain that the '13 model year on the 2500, 3500 (non CC) will be manufactured using the DEF/Urea (diesel emission fluid additive/system) for the first time. This may or may not be something you want and maybe you've already done your research, there are pro/cons and opinions of whether you want to have to add the DEF fluid and expense/have another system on the vehicle to maintain or like '12 model year through '07.5 just drive it without the DEF fluid worries and possibly with less MPG than the newer model.

I do enjoy this '10 Ram with the Cummins Engine very much.