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Old 07-10-2019, 09:45 AM   #1
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1974 Argosy 26
West Des Moines , IA
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My subflooring issue

I've seen a thread where someone cut out the rotted and replaced with new plywood. The question is how fat back should I cut? it looks like I have a leak on the outside that caused this. What would you do?
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:10 AM   #2
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I would look back about 1 foot and find a convient place to mKe the joint. Maybe on the frame member. Maybe with a backing piece. As long as you get out of the discolored area and the plywood seems solid you are okay.
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:22 AM   #3
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I would look back about 1 foot and find a convient place to mKe the joint. Maybe on the frame member. Maybe with a backing piece. As long as you get out of the discolored area and the plywood seems solid you are okay.
Agree.
Being a glutton for punishment, I might also drop the belly pan and inspect the rest of the floor from the bottom up.
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:50 AM   #4
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So the idea of removing the belly pan terrifies me. How bad a job is that?
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:58 AM   #5
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I had similar rot. I cut back to where the really rotten stuff but did not cut back all the discolored plywood. I slipped in a piece of plywood into the hole and screwed it underneath the floor as a support for the new piece of plywood. I also have used fiberglass resin and mat for small areas of rot. Last step was to saturate the whole area with a penetrating epoxy sealer. This repair has lasted for about 10 years so far.
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:08 PM   #6
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My subflooring issue

My 72 had similar rot from the front edge of the door around the front to the refrigerator.

I cut out about 8 or 10 inches, cleaned out under the C-channel, glued and screwed cleats under the cut edge to support the new floor pieces that were slid under the C-channel before the opposite edge was pushed down on the installed support cleat.

It's not as bad as it seems. The worst part for me was that since the rot went nearly clear around the font 1/3 of my trailer, I had to remove the inner skins to re bolt the C-channel to the frame.

If you just have that little section I wouldn't pull the inner skins unless I was going to pull them anyway.

(My repairs are about five years old, I still haven't ever pulled off my belly pan.)

Wherever your leak is, it seems like it's emerging from the member that makes your door jamb, it could be coming from the middle of your trailer, and it could be coming from lower.

I'd concentrate on the roof vent area, the light above the door, and the windows first.
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:48 AM   #7
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I did the repair it wasn't as bad as I expected. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:06 PM   #8
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I had the same hole and patched it. Cut a rectangular hole in the floor large enough to remove the bad section. You can use drywall screws to attach a transition piece to the bottom of the floor then put your patch over that and screw everything together. I would try to insert your new piece under the door frame so it fills the gap where the old section went under the wall/door frame. That leak is most likely due to the door frame leaking where it attaches to the shell. Most door leaks will be diverted by the door frame flange. I would clean the gap around the frame and remove old adhesive and fill the crack between the skin and door frame with Parbond.



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Old 10-22-2019, 06:25 PM   #9
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I had the same hole and patched it. Cut a rectangular hole in the floor large enough to remove the bad section. You can use drywall screws to attach a transition piece to the bottom of the floor then put your patch over that and screw everything together. I would try to insert your new piece under the door frame so it fills the gap where the old section went under the wall/door frame. That leak is most likely due to the door frame leaking where it attaches to the shell. Most door leaks will be diverted by the door frame flange. I would clean the gap around the frame and remove old adhesive and fill the crack between the skin and door frame with Parbond.



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I filled the gap with storm blaster from sherwin Williams a clear permanently flexible sealant.
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Old 10-23-2019, 06:59 AM   #10
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I don't know what storm blaster is. That is a name with no real meaning. Nothing is permanent. To work on my steps I cut out a small section of belly pan and made a patch that attaches with screws to get in that area where you will need to go pretty often to deal with step maintenance issues not to mention leaks. Also check the rivets around the door frame and above it and to the right of the door. These rivets are subject a lot of stress from the door slamming shut and a BIG hole in the skin for the door frame.



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