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Old 09-30-2013, 01:25 PM   #15
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"At any rate, as you say, I will probably go along my merry way doing what I have been doing, and you will go your way too. Freedom is great, eh?" Sure is!

"And I think we hijacked this thread pretty badly. Sorry to the original poster, we got off on other somewhat related issues, I guess." My hope is that the OP knows at least a little more about this topic than he did before! It's a bad day when you can't learn a little something!

By the way, I passed not far from you a couple of weeks ago as I was driving S on 95 from Lewiston to Boise. I was born & raised in southern ID and went to school at UI.

Thanks for the friendly discussion (and enlightenment),
Wayne
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:04 PM   #16
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I have a little more specific winterization questions, also from Alaska. I picked up our new-to-us 27FB on Friday, had the ProPride hitch installed and towed it to our cabin on Saturday and began to winterized it. It will spend the winter under cover next to the garage and will be subjected to -20 degree F temps over the winter.

We picked up several gallons of RV antifreeze and started the process. We dumped both tanks waste tanks and drained the water tank. I opened the water heater bypass, disconnected the pump intake and attached a hose and inserted it into the antifreeze jug. I managed to pump away two gallons of antifreeze while wondering what the total capacity of the system was before running out. I then figured that the water heater bypass wasn't really a bypass but a drain valve (I think) since the antifeeze ended up on the ground underneath the AS. So the first question is whether the water heater valve is a bypass or a drain valve. Should I close it, fill the system with antifreeze and open each value one by one and then drain the water heater tank to get antifreeze throughout the system?

Next question is on the batteries. I figured I could just stay plugged in and the converter would keep the batteries charged and therefore they would not freeze. Any problem with this logic?

Anything else I need to consider before it gets really cold?
Thanks,
Jim
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:51 PM   #17
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I have a little more specific winterization questions, also from Alaska. I picked up our new-to-us 27FB on Friday, had the ProPride hitch installed and towed it to our cabin on Saturday and began to winterized it. It will spend the winter under cover next to the garage and will be subjected to -20 degree F temps over the winter.

We picked up several gallons of RV antifreeze and started the process. We dumped both tanks waste tanks and drained the water tank. I opened the water heater bypass, disconnected the pump intake and attached a hose and inserted it into the antifreeze jug. I managed to pump away two gallons of antifreeze while wondering what the total capacity of the system was before running out. I then figured that the water heater bypass wasn't really a bypass but a drain valve (I think) since the antifeeze ended up on the ground underneath the AS. So the first question is whether the water heater valve is a bypass or a drain valve. Should I close it, fill the system with antifreeze and open each value one by one and then drain the water heater tank to get antifreeze throughout the system?

Next question is on the batteries. I figured I could just stay plugged in and the converter would keep the batteries charged and therefore they would not freeze. Any problem with this logic?

Anything else I need to consider before it gets really cold?
Thanks,
Jim
Always be surprised how fast some things will freeze solid, where you don't think they will freeze. Then get prepared for it ahead of time.
And batteries don't need to be left in the cold storage unless you're doing a scientific test of some kind. How often do your bears unplug things in your woods?
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:55 PM   #18
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Unfortunately, the converter/charger you have is probably a single stage one, and leaving it plugged into power all winter is most likely to overcharge your batteries and possibly make them use too much water which will need to be replaced.

Although I am not sure, you probably have a Paralax 7255 like came in my 2014 FC. I replaced mine with a PD, 3 stage converter a couple of weeks after I got my trailer.

What you can do which would probably be best in your case right now would be to plug the trailer into a timer and have it turn on about an hour a day. The older trailers often had a Univolt converter/charger which had a plug and cord to attach the Univolt to the electrical system. On those you could just put the timer between the plug and the converter. My new rig did not have that plug and cord feature, so if yours is like mine, you would need to have the timer switch the entire trailer on for about an hour a day.

At some point you might consider replacing the single state converter/charger with a 3 stage unit.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:18 AM   #19
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My hope is that the OP knows at least a little more about this topic than he did before! It's a bad day when you can't learn a little something!
Fewshus say.....Hard to learn when 'one' has all the answers.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:20 AM   #20
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Fewshus say.....Hard to learn when 'one' has all the answers.
People with all the answers can still learn; I'm living proof. I've had all the answers for years, but still don't know which answer goes to which question!
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:30 PM   #21
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A water heater bypass is usually constructed of three valves. One shuts off the cold water input to the tank, the second cuts of the hot water output from the tank, and the third opens up a path to piping that allows you to blow out and run antifreeze into the hot water lines of your trailer. So you are closing 2 and opening 1. For some Airstreams there is a fourth valve which shuts of the water supply to an external water valve.

The most common error by new owners is forgetting to close the bypass line valve in the spring. The common symptom being a lack of hot water even though water is flowing.

Jack
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